THX_Elite

I can't find a company that will work with me on my 1995 Mazda Millinia 2.5L: engine idle=700rpm, they all need a product number which i cannot get without 3 and a half man hours of work pulling the alternator just to get a number off of it and put it back in...EXCEPT, Maniac Electric Motors, can I be proved wrong here, lol?

Ya lol, no question...so in that case I'll just say, Welcome to the SSA Forum, best place on the interweb for car audio discussion!

Also if you are running both subs on only the one 1500bdcp at 2ohms, you are only feeding these 1500w RMS beasts...750w RMS maximum a piece. That is the main difference right there. One of them on their own could chew on 1500w all day!

anything goes^ no style requirements just a new place for new songs to share with everyone I love dubstep styles for the bass break downs. I have TONS of examples too many to pic a fav lol. here is one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_gT63JYM1w

Didn't know there was already a similar link oh well that one is from '08 it's 2014!!! Start throwin down some nice links anyways!

You gotta love this one!! Shabba Ranks A$AP ferg remix w/ Busta Rhymes & Migos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGo9ep68ej8 Tech N9ne's "Delusional" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fHdXD8ijdU 3 Six Mafia "Late Night Tip" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpk6FTbxvc4 ^all bad ass, all sub flexin thunder^ ............................. pick and choose from here... http://ram-designs.com/decaf/ tells you the Hz of all the songs ^some cool Decaf Instrumentals the other majority of stuff kinda sucks imo though^

awesome work, my family is in the furniture business, and mechanic busniness, you oughta make good money off that talent!

I could imagine so! That is why I am trying my best to be patient about jumping on an alternator. I just checked my batt's voltage with the car off and no draw after bumping a little bit and it was right at 12v, so I know I need to do something about it sometime soon

That is my main concern in picking a company for H/O alternators, mine NEEDS to be built with the higher output being at low rpm's/idle...Maniac Electrical Motors assured me that outcome. But I am still trying to speak with Singer Alternators.

you might find that even with some voltage dropping you will be ok with leisure listening even with some short loud sessions. You are running at 2 ohms so the drop should not be quite as bad as you experienced before. It helps if you have the big 3, as in upgraded grounds from battery to engine and chassis and from alt to battery. The big 3 makes a huuuge difference.

Nice choice of Battery : ) you would benifit from a H/0 alternator, your case is similar to mine in that you are drawing twice or more the amps off of your battery than your alternator can easily replace, meaning your alt is behind the the curve when it comes to your electrical. 1/0 gauge is always going to be best when running a length to the rear of your car. I would recommend that you check how much voltage drainage you get at maximum volume that you listen to when your car IS running on a heavy bass note...I did that same thing yesterday and noticed it went from 14.4v straight to 12, and then started creeping down further on the first strong and long bass note, I have a stock 90 amp and a group 65-PC1750 Odessey. Keep in mind I am only running 1 12" sub at 1600watts RMS. We both could surely benifit from a H/O alternator, and possibly even a battery in the trunk...it really depends on if your battery is dipping below 12- 12.6 volts-that is never good for what we want.

ya i gave up on Ohio Gen because they, "Tom", didn't have a unit he could test that fits my car so he hung up on me lol. Marked them right off the list!

he is just showing you when you have a question to post how to keep it easy to read/answer, you will get more replys that way ...Have not heard from Singer yet, although it is just past 11 o clock there, just testing their response time and hoping for a good estimate on the H/O Alty that I need!

I also have decided to email singer, with my cars specs to see how quick and with what they respond with. It will be interesting to see if they have something they can do for my specific vehicle at a reasonable price!

Welcome to the greatest car audio forum around the web! Some of the best guys/gals and knowledge are in these pages!

I am also wanting to upgrade to a H/O alt. I was told to check out "Ohio Generators" and ask for "Tom". Just one option...I have had my eye on a "Maniac Electrical Motors" alternator because they have a stock drop in for my car that is double the amps at 180, and they have a fantastic sales lady that is ALWAYS available and answers calls within the first couple rings. That to me means a lot in itself! They also do not "overbuild" their alt's, they make sure that their alt's can hang tough at low rpm's which is how must of us are bumping our cars and is important for no voltage drops at low rpm/even idle, while having high output from the stereo. IMO the yellow top optima's are the way to go if you get them at cost. However, I am personally interested to see if the DieHard Platinum's would work well in the back of my car with my military grade Odyssey group 65-PC1750 under the hood!

I was just thinking, my family are mechanics...are you sure the first alternator you bought was a stock drop in with the same size pully? Because if it was a different diameter it would most surely affect your idle speed voltage. Update: I also learned some more and I do, in fact, actually "NEED" a H/O Alternator so I will be ordering one on the 1st for sure!

The one I want to order is 288 dollars, I'm not sure that the price of the alternator matters, what matters to me is if there is a warranty, and if it is a direct fit application...The mazda Millinia I have takes 3.5 man hours to change out alternators, and that is without any issues! I mean the thing is buried DEEP under the Valve cover and sandwiched up against the radiator!...So in truth I'm hoping when my Fi BL get's here that I have no issues with powering it. Right now I feed my Rockford T1 all 1600 watts of my amp having the gain set at .4v which is what my H/U output is, and can turn the H/U 98% up with out any issues, so I really have high hopes. Plus the box is to small for the sub at 1.5^3 tuned at around 40hz, I don't know if that is harder to run full power or easier, maybe someone could shed some light on that part? Because my new box is shipping out today to house the Fi BL and is actually the correct size. 2.5^3 after sub, brace and port displacements and tuned right at 32hz...I may just get another battery (if needed) and hold off on the alternator since I know this one works as it should.

I have taken both of them out just for that reason to see if there were any issues and there were none. There are no electrical issues, or voltage dropping. In fact when I installed the system and big 3 I solved some electrical issues that came with the car when I bought it! I just want the H/O alternator that I am going to get on the 1st of April, from Maniac Electric Motors...they have a stock replacement drop in that is double the amps which is 180amps for not much money brand new. I actually don't even "need" that, it will just be better over all to have it in place given my stock 90amp has 188k miles on it!

I agree the amount of cash i spent on mine along time ago, i could have used on a H/O alternator or second battery, but alas...since I did spend the cash on them I use them anyway. Not like anyone would by em' even if I tried to sell them, so I will love them anyway as they are mine

I would love to be a team member of SSA and fly the banner, How do I do it? Shall I spend some money with you guys? heheh, been thinkin' of a new amp

actually capacitors mask problems with the charging system ya if they do anything, they do that the best for sure! It's funny, I have two installed, one is 175farad "batcap" and the other is a quicker firing 1farad SWX. Well I started the car and turned on my system and all was running well, but I realized OH SHIT....My circuit breaker at the battery that goes to my 175farad cap, then 1farad cap then to the amp was not engaged!!! But to my surprise the system was bumping quite nicely for around 3-5 minutes, until I completed the circuit. lol.

LMAO at the car audio shop,...they are all the same...Running it how you want to run it is absolutely fine, IF it fits where you want it to AND it gets proper cooling. You don't truly need 1/0 gauge wire for only 1200 watts but there is nothing wrong with buying that gauge as it leaves room for upgrades down the road and IMO is actually a good Idea Keep in mind you only need 4 gauge, 2 gauge tops for the amp that is powering mids. Capacitors are a topic that is highly debated in Car Audio Forums. It really is up to you if you want to have one or not. It will not make nor will it break your system. ALL they do is help the amp and barely at that..they do NOT prevent headlight dimming, voltage drops, clipping...etc. Your electrical output(alternator)needs to be sufficient to prevent those types of things and also making sure you have the "Big 3" upgrade performed under the hood of your car will surpass the effects of just buying a capacitor alone! Once you get the sub you want in this case the Alpine Type R dual 2(...btw, MUCH BETTER SUBS ARE HERE IN THE FORUMS FOR LESS MONEY)the amp you have will run that sub just fine when your sub woofer is wired in parallel to equal a 1ohm load. I would also urge you to make sure your current enclosure will accomodate the specs of the subwoofer your upgrading to. For example make sure that your enclosure in this case sealed has enough internal volume or in other words cubic feet, or in a ported encloser that is both tuned properly to the sub you want and has enough cubic feet of air space.

Bump and price reduced to $55 plus shipping

These are what I run In my car and are Fantastic! 150Watts RMS! Selling at a Great Price! $65 Never opened or taken out of the origional shipping box!! Paypal only, to protect both buyer and seller!! Buyer pays shipping Located in Pocatello, ID ~Thanks For Looking THX_Elite