lincolntc

so i planned on turning my smoked dp 15 into 10", only once i tore in to it i have an older 08 model with the ia basket holes only (2 sets- 12 and 15, 18 and 21) cant fit a 12 spoke or a aq,dd,ab basket my question is, will the dr or li 10" baskets bolt up to a dp motor?

so i pulled my dp yesterday, and to my surprise when i set it on top of the box none of the screws or the driver pulled over to the motor. usually this happens, so i put a few on the side of the motor, and to my surprise they were very easy to pull off. this is unusual as it is a pita to do usually. any thoughts as to why this happened and wnat to do??

with no t/s parameters, is there any possibility of coming up w/ a design for either one? single dp 15 (d1.4), orion 2500d

just found my btl to be the same way last night, the magnet closest to the top plate split in half

i have, but i didnt look at it. looks like a bad deal

is there any 10" baskets that will bolt to a dp motor? are the holes in the way to drill it out to fit a 12 spoke or any other 10" basket? looking to turn a 15" dp into a 10" for an 03 deville rear deck ported thru the armrest install

thanks you ia2 for the double answer

anyone know if the lethal injection 10 uses the same bolt pattern?

top plate ID is 3.3793937

which of the old 3 slug options were cosidered basically universal, D1 or D2. i bought my btl from teampsi on ca.com, on his ad he said its a D1 so its basically universal. i have read else where that the D2 were the ones considered universal. can anyone clear this up? im about to order a recone, and i want D2's but i want to make sure it will fit! thanks fellas

top plate ID is 3.3793937

gap measures .225 +/- .005 is that a tight enough spec.?? can i get a D2, ND??

i had a similar problem when i built the btl's first box, check to make sure the port is firmly secured to the top and bottom of the box. when i stuck my head in the port, i thought my sub was f@cked, but closer review showed that my port wall seperated from my top baffle. nothing a few screws and some titebond didnt fix:) its worth a shot

bassahaulic it was a D1 before i took the cone off, and i will be measuring the gap at work today with a faro arm (3D mapping and precision measuring instrument) its damned hard to measure a magnetic gap with metal calipers:D

is there a way to identify a D2 from a D1, other than measurements? which i can check:)

heres the link to the original sale, team psi at ca.com says it was a D1 motor http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...black+btl+18%22 is it possible ND to not have to send it in? and here are a few pics, maybe you can tell how old?? Pole +gap motor

if you weld the holes closed then redrill, they'll fit;)

thanks for clearing that up nick, gonna need a recone soon, do the new kits come w/ woven tinsels? a broken tinsel is the reason i seen the offset

look at the cooling channel around the one o'clock position, it isnt lined up but all the rest are! is this normal? if not any performance issues from this?? thanks

shes in storage for the winter

anyone else?

if you look close the pole channel is offset to the left of the outer channel almost the whole width of the channel.

i need 4 tinsel leads, one broke, i fixed it, then the other broke! im just going to replace all 4, do you still sell just the leads? if so how much and where to pay for a loaded btl 18 thanks

how did you secure the 8g wire to the basket? i see it looks like it goes thru the terminal holes,but...