Impious

FWIW Sony was doing square drivers in their home audio line of speakers way back in the 70s or early 80s. Sony APM series.

Dave is amish, he wouldn't even know what a BB was. Heck, he has to go out to his barn to get internet access. I kid, I kid. Anyways, I would disagree with the previous poster to stay away from Kinetik. They are high quality well performing batteries.

No, it will read the same either way. The DMM doesn't care which terminal is positive or negative when determining the resistance. It just measures how much resistance is present. Are the connection terminals the same size, or is one smaller than the other? EDIT: Nevermind, reread your post where you said the terminals are the same size. On larger drivers you can use a 9V battery to "pop" the speaker and see if the cone moves inward or outward. You can do this with a tweeter, but it will probably be much harder to see the cone's motion. Every speaker is "phase sensitive" in that positive voltage to one terminal will cause the cone to move outward, positive voltage to the other terminal will cause the cone to move inward. However, absolute phase isn't as important as relative phase. Meaning just because you have positive wire connected to positive terminal, it doesn't mean the sound that reaches your ear is in-phase with the other speaker. And the soundwaves being in-phase is what's really important. My advice: don't worry about it and try the speakers in both polarities and see which way sounds best inside the car.

The newest revision has two -- older ones have one on top of the pole. Cool beans. Was just curious as I was honestly a little surprised at the symmetry and linearity of the Le curve. Looks like pretty nice results overall.

I don't know what calculators Audibel has pinned......but port length depends on cross-sectional area of the port and net volume of the enclosure. Doesn't make a difference if the ports are round or square (although with a square you are more likely to be using an enclosure wall for part of the port, so end correction may come into affect).

Does the SA-12 have shorting rings in the motor?

popping in between tracks, having less 6db, what can i do to gain it back? adjust the gain higher? Yes, you would need to "double" the gain setting. Without the y-splitter you are feeding the amplifier half of the voltage it's "expecting" to see. Though I think a better solution would be to try to solve the popping issue altogether if possible. Is it only popping between tracks or does it also have turn on/off pop?

Noise Troubleshooting Guide

Happy Birthday Aaron !

It might simply be that the pop sound is there both ways, it's just not as audible without the y-splitter as there is 6db less input into the amplifier. Does it pop between tracks or only when turning on or off the system?

I would say a company that has held payment for months and months and months and months and made promises and promises and promises and promises but no product has actually been provided and recently information is not very forthcoming is accomplishing the task of ruining their own reputation all by themself. Put yourself in the buyers shoes. Rather than call them douchebags, I'd say they've been SIGNIFICANTLY more patient and respectful than I would have been if I were in the same situation. And contrary to the way most of these situations have gone, almost all of the buyers have been very respectful in their requests for information from Troy in this thread. Though their frustration is understandably increasing the longer this thread runs and the more time goes by with no updates or information. I really fail to see how posting their situation and requesting an update on the situation on his official public forum (requests that have gone unanswered, mind you) makes them douchebags or them being the ones ruining a companies reputation. There's only one person who can ruin Troy's reputation; that would be Troy himself. A company's reputation doesn't hang on whether or not they have issues, as almost all companies will at some point, but rather how they handle themselves during the issues that do arise. And that is all on Troy.

The "BP/LP" button shouldn't matter.....setting the slider to "Flat" should override that feature since you are not using the crossover. The "2ch LP/Mono LP" switch should be set to "Mono LP" to tell the amplifier that it's bridged to a subwoofer (I'm assuming you are bridging the amplifier to the subwoofer). Use y-splitters on the amplifier end of the RCAs to send an input signal to all 4 inputs. Does the H701 have a subsonic filter for the subwoofer output? Do you need a subsonic filter (i.e. are you porting your Ultimo)? I guess if you need a subsonic filter and there isn't one built into the H701, that may change the settings a bit.

Louder on a mic? Maybe, if the Hifonics was significantly overrated or the Crescendo was significantly underrated. Louder to the ear? Not a chance as long as they were both properly set. Enclosure doesn't matter at all in this regard.

Even upgrading to a 3500w amp is a waste of money. He'd be looking at a maximum increase of 1.6db, before power compression. Not worth it for daily listening. Not worth the expense. Not worth the increased strain on the electrical system. He'd see little to no audible benefit. Just keep your current amp. As long as it's functioning properly, there is no reason to change it.

10*log(844/600) = 1.49db You'd be looking at a maximum difference of 1.49db, which if audible would be just barely noticeable. Think of it as about one click higher on the volume knob of the average headunit. And that is the maximum difference in an ideal situation; that doesn't take into account real world effects such as power compression which are going to lower the actual increase in output. Realistically you will be looking at an increase somewhere less than 1.49db, how much less depends on how much power compression your drivers are experiencing. Definitely not worth $550 if this is for a daily listening scenario. If this is for an SPL competition type of scenario, then yes the difference may be important but you would have to weigh the cost against the benefit and the other options.

Use the PM function. This thread is not for trying to make deals. That is what the classifieds section and PMs are for. Stay out of this thread with that line of conversation.

I don't know what you all are talking about. 173db seems perfectly reasonable for that stereo.

If you are using the H701 you can just set the xover on the Kronos to flat and use the crossover in the H701.

You can search the classifieds of the various forums and try to find someone selling a used pair.

Same idea as any extreme concept car that'll never sell. How many Pontiac guys bought Trans-Am's and Firebirds when they saw the Banshee?(If anybody remembers that...I'm a Pontiac-head lol) MY first glimpse of that car was the Detroit auto show. I was 8 or 9 at the time. Then it was on a NightRider TV movie as a new K.I.T.T. When you look at the thing, a lot of people bought them. IIRC, 75% of the car was part of the 4th gen F-body, including the nose on the 'Birds and the swooping quarters. Of course I don't know how many actually saw the concept car. I have a model kit of the Banshee from probably 20 years ago....think I still have it, never put it together though. And the Knight Rider movie was called Knight Rider 2000. I remember watching it on TV when it came out. Holy shit I feel old now

From the way it's explained in the manual, it technically would be considered distortion as it's changing the signal by more than a simple amplitude adjustment. From the way it's explained, if frequency X is present in the incoming signal, then the RA will add frequency X/2 to the signal (1 octave lower). That would technically be classified as distortion as it's adding frequencies to the signal that may not have been originally present in the signal. Distortion has a negative connotation as usually "distortion" relates to something that is undesirable, but that's not necessarily the case. In this case, the resulting effect of the added "distortion" are intentional and not necessarily undesirable. All the statement "12db (4x) final gain stage" means that is the RA increases the level of the signal by 12db, which in the world of voltage equates to a four fold increase in voltage between input and output (a 6db increase requires double the voltage, therefore a 12db increase requires the original voltage quadruple). So if you input 1V into the RA, it will output 4V to the amplifier. It would be no different than exchanging a 2V headunit for one that outputs 8V. It simply affects where the gain needs to be set. However, Zed included one feature in the RA to combat the potential issue of driving too much preamp voltage into the amplifier (or out of the RA). And that is the compressor. You set where the compression begins to take effect, at a certain point the compressor will "kick in" and keep the voltage output from increasing any higher*. This means you won't clip the output of the RA, and you won't overdrive the input stage of the amplifier (assuming the compressor threshold is set correctly). *After re-reading the manual, it says: The last control is the VOLUME control and this of course sets the level of the sub woofers. It also controls the “make up gain” required by the compressor so that even though the compressor is set to compress, the gain can still be increased but in a compressed mode. So it sounds as though I might be a little wrong. It sounds like it will still allow the output voltage to increase but it won't increase linearly with the volume control. The amount by which the output voltage increases once the compressor takes affect is reduced, but the output voltage will still increase some as the volume control is increased with the compression engaged. From the way it's described in the manual, it works exactly like the Epicenter, except the Epicenter only had one center frequency (selectable via a knob) and a Q adjustment for the "bass restoration" whereas the RA has 2 center frequencies (32hz and 45hz) without a Q adjustment. If it finds X frequency present in the signal, then it will add frequency X/2 (1 octave lower than the fundamental) to the signal at an amplitude determined by the level adjustment knob for the related frequency. As far as I know, that's pretty much exactly what the Epicenter does as well. The Epicenter as far as I'm aware is basically just a subharmonic synth that they gave a different name to ("bass restoration circuit"). I could be wrong here. But from the way it's described in the manual, I think I'm accurate.

I am. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/45485-bravox-cs-603cf-kickpanels/page__p__717740#entry717740

Great deals. I'll be placing an order.

Did you read ANY of the above posts? Doubtful. He was one of the cronies I mentioned earlier. Pretty obvious why I hold the hostile feelings towards them.

The cap is a good addition to protect the tweeter against potential damage from equipment failure or the ocassional dumbass attack. You should use another highpass filter for the actual acoustic filter on the tweeter, however. What value you need for the cap depends on what tweeter you end up with and what how high your actual crossover frequency is.