Impious

Technically yes, you can invert a mid. Sound radiates from both sides of the cone equally, you just don't notice this most of the time because the rear of the driver is sealed off from the front by some type of enclosure or baffle. Having them inverted wouldn't affect which way the sound is "projected" or cause all of the sound to be radiated into the door, but it would affect the high(er) frequency response of the driver. The basket and motor will create reflection/interference issues at certain frequencies and probably affect dispersion patterns in the upper frequencies as well. Where you will run into problems depends on the dimensions of the motor and basket (as they are related to the wavelength of the sound wave at which issues will occur, which will ofcourse determine what frequencies you will have an issue at)......the higher you play in frequency the more problems you will run into. Not to mention you run the risk of hearing the mechanical noise from the driver (which again, is normally "trapped" inside of the enclosure or separated by the baffle so you don't hear it). So overall no, it's not a good idea. But in theory if you were using them strictly as midbass speakers it would possibly be feasible. Mids can be wired out of phase. In fact this is common practice. My midrange are out of phase with my midbass and tweeters. In my case, I had to wire them out of phase due to the phase shift inherent to the 2nd order slope of the crossovers. But often wiring one or both mids out of phase is done because of the differing distances of the mids to the other speakers and to the listening position in car audio. Higher frequencies don't radiate only from the center of the cone. They radiate from all of the cone, but at some point the wavelengths will become shorter than the diameter of the driver and beaming will begin to occur, which means there is an increasingly narrowing dispersion pattern. But below the point of beaming, the sound radiates in a relatively even pattern. Higher frequencies are more easily localized than lower (subbass) frequencies. This has little to do directly with the mounting orientation of the driver, assuming the frequency response (et al) was the same you wouldn't notice a difference between an inverted mid and a normal mid. But indirectly it can make a difference because of changes to frequency response and such. How we localize sound depends on the frequency and the dimensions of your head, among other things.

So, next question is how much are you looking to spend? There's an extremely cheap route that's not very good but will allow everything to physically "work", and a more expensive option that will work better.

Because we don't know what the xover in the Sundown is like. We were trying to save you money by waiting to see how much of your current equipment will fit your needs.

This is one of the few occasions where I would support a decision for the threads to be deleted from a manufacturers section. This sounds like bad news all the way around. No reason to keep it around, really.

Nothing wrong with that Plan it right and you might even be able to steal some of the HT/HA market with a driver like that.

Those would be overboard for this setup. It's not going to sound "good" regardless, so he just needs to keep things from breaking. Anyways, we can't tell you what you need until we know what you are already working with. So I guess you need to atleast find out the requested info about the crossover section in the Sundown amp before we can answer your question.

How and why did you choose that speaker combination? Where are all of the speakers going to be located? What crossover functions, frequency range and slope does the Sundown amp have? Does your HU have any built in crossovers? If so, what is their frequency range and slope?

My guess would be yes, the back is not considered a separate "wall" because it's simply an extension of the 3rd wall. For the purposes of that question in the programming it's probably indifferent whether or not the port bends and follows the rear wall since at any given point the port is only touching 3 walls of the enclosure.

You do realize that more than likely the main reason it sounds like shit is because it was recorded with a crappy mic and being reproduced by crappy computer speakers, right? What you hear is anything but an accurate representation of the actual sound they are producing.

What are the dimensions?

Eye on the TV 'cause tragedy thrills me Whatever flavor it happens to be Like: "Killed by the husband" ... "Drowned by the ocean" ... "Shot by his own son" ... "She used a poison in his tea, Then (she) kissed him goodbye" That's my kind of story It's no fun til someone dies.

Being square won't necessarily diminish it's qualities. But I've never used them or heard anything about them. They might be decent......Peerless, HiVi, etc all make reasonably well performing compact and cost effective full range speakers.

How high in frequency are you talking? And why do you want your sub to play midbass?

That would make for a great "IB" sub in a car too

I think this picture belongs in the audio addicts thread. You know you have an audio addiction when.........you use a sub motor as a door stop.

Keeping power low while trying to "break in" a loudspeaker is actually counterproductive to the goal. The only way to "break in" a driver is to actually exercise the suspension. The most effective method to "break in" a speaker is to run the speaker free air and drive it to Xmax for a period of time, though this is completely unnecessary in most situations. Moral of the story is to plug it in and play it like you normally would. The subwoofer will break in naturally with normal usage, and except in some limited circumstances the differences between pre-break in and post-break in performance won't be audible anyways. Whether or not that amplifier is too much power depends more on the enclosure than anything. But you can always turn the amp down some to keep things under control if it does turn out to be too much for your specific circumstance.....but don't worry about turning it down expressly for some arbitrary "break in" period. That's useless. EDIT: Damn, ya'll be fast posters. When I started typing there weren't any replies.

Our goal is nothing more than to not allow the members of this forum to be mislead by inaccurate information and statements, and to correct that misinformation (misinformation potentially given unintentionally). I find it hard to believe someone could rationally take issue with this. In summary: No, you don't really have anything other than a subjective opinion. Not if you understand the actual performance differences between poorly performing asphalt CLD, and CLD actually designed with proper materials for deadening.....assuming actual deadening is the goal. It would be ignorant to use a product that performs poorly at deadening as a sound deadener, and to recommend it for such usage. Here is a quote from Don in the Why Not Asphalt? thread, that I think sums up your side of this discussion quite accurately, as well as the problem with the reasoning you propose for suggesting why FatMat is a useful deadening material; That doesn't make everyone's opinion right or accurate. For example; I can be of the opinion the Earth is the center of the solar system because that's the way it appears when I look up at the sky. It's my opinion, and I'm entitled to it, right?

How tall of a coil are you using?

I used to get cortisone shots when I was younger for allergies. Every year the Dr would tell me that it would be the last time he'd give it to me as it can damage the cartilage in your joints and cause arthritis like Audible said.

Have you ever used this product to back up your claim? I disagree. I did the entire interior of my truck in Fatmat and it's worked great for me. You can check out the pics in my build log. http://forum.realmof...-build-log.html I used heat on a lot of areas to get it to lay down the way I wanted it to (my wifes blowdryer lol). As I said before it's worked great for me and in the 100+ degree weather of GA none of it has even began to peel. Oh and I have absolutely no smell either. Considering the inferiority and problems with asphalt based deadeners is well documented, why don't you back up your claim with something more than a subjective "it works great for me" and "it hasn't fallen off yet". (And FYI, simply "not falling off yet" isn't of significant consequence, especially if you understand how asphalt breaks down and becomes even more ineffective over time and exposed to heat).

Nice photos. Look really good.

2 mids in each front door... I wanted to make sure you weren't doing something crazy like putting one up front and one in the back bridged off the same channel.

Personally I would get an external processor for EQ and time alignment, and just use it for the xover functions as well. Where are the bridged mids going to be located?

Just do a fused distro block right before the amp.

What gauge wiring are you using? Does the amp have internal fusing?