Impious

They should read nearly identical. Make sure the batteries in your DMM aren't low to start with.

So you're not very savvy with car audio yet, but still decided to buy a frankenwoofer with thrown together soft parts on a motor and no specifications? Doesn't sound like a very rational decision to make. Without atleast having T/S specs you are not going to be able to build a proper enclosure for the subwoofer. You're not going to be able to research making a box....there's nothing to research, it's a pile of parts thrown together to create a functioning subwoofer.

What parameters do you have for the XL ? Depending on what parameters you have it might be possible to calculate out the Vas & sensitivity.

That's my job here.

The company itself ran by a jackass so I would not recommend their products. As Denim mentioned you would be substantially better off by contacting Sound Deadener Showdown. High quality products sold by an individual who actually understands sound deadening and will be extremely helpful in helping you achieve your goals.

TC Neo motor with Fi soft parts. The motor is good and the soft parts are good, but without more info we have no idea if they actually make a good combination. Personally I wouldn't buy it unless he were at minimum able to provide full T/S parameters for the subwoofer.

I predict SPL will be somewhere with in the audible spectrum of sound.

That had to be a joke. No way in hell that could have been a serious statement.

To be honest I wouldn't even worry about "upgrading" to a 2kw amp from a 1200w amp unless this is a competition SPL system. By the time you factor in power compression the audible difference between 2kw and 1200w is going to be minimal.

Pioneer is the amp not the HU. And AFAIK that is a problem with one particular model line of Pioneer HU, not the entire brand.

Noise Troubleshooting Guide

Correct, as long as you maintain proper total port length and reduce the gross enclosure volume by the gross amount of port volume no longer within the enclosure.

You will need to reduce the gross enclosure volume by the amount of port volume no longer inside of the enclosure as well. Based on an 8.5" x 13.5" x 6" section of port, you would need to reduce the gross enclosure volume by .4cuft (that does not include the thickness of the wood, which I can't calculate since I don't know the layout of the enclosure. You would need to reduce the enclosure volume by the gross volume of the port + wood thickness no longer inside of the enclosure).

A knowledge salesperson (or representative, or business owner, whichever you may be) would have explained to the client that there is no such thing as "best", but these are the brands we carry and these are the reasons we feel they would be well suited to your particular application and needs (you would need to actually discuss their needs and constraints, rather than blanket "well we sell Sundown because they are the best and that's why you should use them." I'm going to gander a guess that is probably the extent of your sales presentation). You shouldn't need to poll the forum to help you sell your products. Especially when you poll them with a ridiculous and generic question like "which is best?".

You didn't do a very good job of hiding your particular bias in the post, nor in the poll. Regardless.....Sundown, Kicker L7's and Hifonics amps have all been used successfully in SPL competition. To ask which is "best" for SPL is a rather meaningless question as it has no answer. One is not better than the other. There is no best amplifier or subwoofer for SPL. There is no best car, no best shoe, no best pen, no best condom. There is no best anything. The closets one could hope to achieve is to which particular products will be more or less suited to any given specific scenario. Considering you didn't give nearly enough information to make an informed decision to that end, there's no possible way to know. Though the intent of this thread was quite obviously to "prove" Sundown is "the best", so I guess trying to actually provide suggestions to help some one select a good system design layout based on their needs, constraints and budget is well outside the scope of this thread.

FWIW, I also use Unibox a lot. It's GUI is terrible as it's simply an Excel spreadsheet, but I like it a little better than WinISD for a little bit quicker looks at things (driver input, for example, IMO is a lot easier in Unibox). From what I've heard it can also be more accurate than WinISD but I've never taken the time to compare them.

I have not been able to view excursion using WinISD. Am I missing something? Not sure what version of WinISD you are using, but here it is in mine:

Pretty sure my car won't even allow the engine to be turned off while engaged in a drive gear. That said, I agree with Sean. try it... im pretty sure it will... what is it? I can't, it's been sitting in my drive for a few weeks broke down I was thinking it wouldn't shut off in gear, but it's been a while since we'd messed with it so I could be wrong.

Pretty sure my car won't even allow the engine to be turned off while engaged in a drive gear. That said, I agree with Sean.

I was wondering exactly the same thing.

Running custom home automation software. Android "works" but the interface is either through a software translator client or and RDP. While both are functional, it then won't replace the hard buttons on my remote as the lag will kill you when trying to use FFWD on the DVR to skip commercials. I need a very non-latent connection direct to my machine to insure I can do this. Pretty much for everything else an Android is fine and I can easily use my phone for it, but that doesn't allow me to be rid of the IR/RF push button remotes. Considering the rest of the interface is so sexy, that isn't something I want to keep laying around. (currently what I am doing). Of course since I have a current solution (and usually have my laptop on my lap anyways) I am not in a rush, but figure that I am not near as tech savvy as many of you on here and flat out don't notice when new stuff comes up and was hoping someone on here might. I have gone back and forth on posting a build log on what I am running, but considering it is also controlling/interfacing with my security system I have chosen not to atm. Maybe once I integrate some CCTV and other goodies I will anyways though. Having stuff like the temperature of the pork butt that is sitting on your charcoal smoker on your remote is rather wicked Knowing what room has what music playing, where the lights are on in the house, which doors are open, what the sprinklers are doing, what temperature which zone is at and such doesn't suck either. Thank you for making me feel less lazy Us poor folk gotta do things the old fashion way.....

My initial guess would be that it's simply a bloated low end response. Experienced the same thing when I tested the Dcon ported. My solution was to EQ out the bloated low end and increased the level on the sub channel to give a little more punch on the top end while staying within the thermal and mechanical limits of the driver.

As stated multiple times before, a labyrinth simply refers to a port (or any other passage) that has a significantly folded shape, creating a maze like path. It isn't a type of enclosure. It's simply meaningless nomenclature that has for whatever reason became a catch phrase for a port or other passage that has a lot of bends or folds. A true T-line is a T-line with or without stuffing. The stuffing is used to aid in obtaining a certain system response. Being a T-line has nothing to do with the stuffing itself.

I don't know what a 1501D runs price wise, but if it were an affordable option to repair the broken one and purchase a 2nd, there would be nothing wrong with running one amp per sub, each amp @ 2ohm for 1kw per sub. You will not hear a difference between 2kw and 2400w from the Hifonics. Even the audible difference between 2kw and 3kw will be minimal, if it exists at all, especially once you factor in power compression. The difference between 2kw and 3kw is 1.75db under ideal circumstances, and I would be sincerely flabbergasted if you didn't have atleast 1db of power compression at that level.

Responded to your PM. AFAIK only the "multi-media" center HU's (I.E. those that will play DVD's, the IVA and DVA series) will control the H701 as it was their "multi-media" processor. The 9886 was their first Imprint-compatible HU and I believe only works with the Imprint processors.