Impious

First thing we would need to know is your space limitations. Can't recommend alternatives if we don't know what will fit and what will not.

i think its just the effect that people are impressed with... same as doing a burn out.. do people enjoy buying new tires and smelling the stench of burning rubber?? no.. but it looks cool. and in some ways of thought it shows performance value. Yes but burnouts can provide a valuable performance benefit (drag racing, for example). Flex.....does not.

It actually does appear to be the camera. If you notice in the video the sub's movement is all distorted; it looks like the cone "wobbles". Same thing appears to be happening to the items that are vibrating. IIRC the issue is that the camera's frame rate isn't high enough to keep up with the quick movement occuring, so the movement isn't fluid but distorted instead. This appears to be happening to the images of the panel (etc) vibrations and causes them to "wobble" in the video instead of being a fluid movement, which is overemphasizing the amount of vibration. An illusion created by to the insufficient frame rate.

Having no public phone allows them to spend more time building and designing subs which gets orders out quicker, and keeps costs down because they don't have to pay someone to sit there & answer the phone all day. The downside is yes, it takes a little longer to get ahold of them.

Though the Exodus are generally a good option, it would require going active.

For true midbass frequencies, having the speakers located in front of you doesn't really matter. But you would still want them as wide as possible.....under or directly behind the seats are both generally poor options. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get performance under 120hz with them unless you are simply pushing them significantly past their output limitations. Are you playing them at an excessively loud level when they appear to start bottoming out?

If you have the Jimmy, pull the door panels off and verify how much depth you have to work with. That could make a difference in your speaker selection options. Also, I would try to find out exactly what model RF amp you have. As long as it works fine & puts out enough power for your needs there may be no reason to spend the extra money on an amp.

You always want the fuse as close to the battery as possible. There's no reason to fuse near the amp, the fuse near the battery will protect the rest of the circuit (wire and amp). The underhood fuse near the battery will double as the external fusing for the amplifier. Choose the fuse size accordingly.

The 'Hop is 1/3 of the site's total posts.

http://bravoxaudio.com/download/05.pdf FWIW, I've enjoyed both the CS60CF & the 603's. No experience with the 60k's however. But linked you to a magazine review of them that you might find helpful.

http://www.myfoxtwincities.com/dpp/news/minnesota/sartell-crash-kills-fiancee-josh-laine-kolleen-kill-may-10-2010

http://www.eclipse-web.com/us/download/manual/cd7200mkII_e/audio/contents/1636.html

It entirely depends on what drivers you are actually considering. If you are able to find a 15" driver within your budget that meets your performance, space and build quality objectives, I would choose the higher displacement potential of the 15" driver 100% of the time. Also, there's nothing more "punchy" about a 10" driver.

I also wouldn't necessarily recommend an MS8 for a 1st time active user either. With everything being done behind the scenes in my opinion it takes a little bit of preexisting knowledge to understand why the MS8 does what it does, especially when results are less stellar than expected. I think for someone learning the ins and outs of tuning it's better to see the numbers on the display and be in control of what is changing, that way when the sound goes from good to bad or bad to good they hopefully gain an understanding of why a certain change had the result it did. I miss my H701 for that very fact.....when something doesn't turn out exactly right with the MS8 it takes a bit of figuring out why I didn't get the result I expected, and how to fix it.

How experienced in audio setup and installation are you? Reason I ask is because the MiniDSP isn't as plug-n-play as a car audio specific processor. Last I knew there are some specific considerations to installing a MiniDSP in a car environment, such as it not being properly isolated so without the correct installation there was a high risk of noise and such. If this is your first go-round with active and you are less experienced with electronics in general, it's probably not a great first processor. The initial cost of the MiniDSP appears low, but by the time you factor everything in cost wise (casing, isolation, etc) it ends up being pretty equivalent in cost to a lot of used car audio specific processors. Also, I'm not sure if there is a time delay for the audio to route through the MiniDSP's processing. If there is, then in order to run a 2-way active front stage + subwoofer you would need atleast 5 channels of processing so that all of the audio system was running through the processor, which means you would need either two 4-channels or the 8-channel. So, long story short.....depending on your experience and skill level, you very well may be better off to look at car audio specific products.

And don't get confused on the subwoofer impedance. The impedance of the load (the impedance the subs are wired to) doesn't change. If you run the subs in series-parallel for a 6ohm load, then the load is 6ohm. What does change is the minimum impedance the amplifier(s) are able to drive when strapped. The minimum impedance doubles, since each amp effectively "sees" half of the load. If the minimum impedance each amp is individually able to be ran at is 1ohm, then when strapped the minimum impedance would be 2ohm. This is why it would be bad to strap them into a 1.5ohm load.

If the amps are 1ohm stable, then when "strapped" the minimum impedance they would be able to accept is 2ohm. Do not strap the amps onto a 1.5ohm load. With 2 dual 6ohm drivers, you could not wire the subs together into a 3ohm load. Which means you could not strap your amps to a 3ohm load. Your options wiring the subwoofers together to strap the amps, would be 1.5ohm and 6ohm. Your best option is to run one sub per amplifier at 3ohm. This would be exactly the same as strapping the amps and wiring the subwoofers together at 6ohm, but I think strapping unnecessarily complicates things. Just run one amp per sub. The other option is to sell your amps and purchase something that may be more suitable for your goals.

I wouldn't buy it. That's a variance of more than 25%, which I would think production tolerances for a voice would be tighter than 25%. It may indicate that there is a problem or an impending problem.

Are you sure it's not taking a charge, or is it discharged low enough that your charger won't "recognize" the battery to actually initiate charging it?

No. Honest. I don't know why people think high output capable systems have to disregard basic audio principles. I won't deny that the craftsmanship side of the install looks excellent. System design and layout could be significantly improved. And then less knowledgeable members see these types of high quality craftsmanship installs and try to emulate them, if not in quality then in design, when the application of acoustic principles within the system is lacking.

Very nice fabrication. Terrible speaker layout.

+1 to you good sir

Yes, you will be effectively bypassing the crossover in the amplifier. You can play around with the slope, see what setting you like best. 0db is equivalent to "off". 24db is fine, but try the different settings see what you like best.

Thank you Mark & Aaron for offering another Outrageous Deal to the members. My fingers were crossed it was going to be a Leviathan....I could use two of them (*hint hint* for next time )

That is entirely way too low. It should be in the 60-100hz range for most typical systems, depending on your system and preferences. Also, it would appear you are using both the lowpass in the amp and in the headunit....while there is not something technically "wrong" with this, in your case it's probably a little unnecessary. My advice would be to increase the lowpass filter setting on the amp as high as the knob will go or simply shut it off if at all possible, then reset the lowpass crossover on the headunit so the crossover frequency is somewhere in the range I previously listed.