Impious

Meet Lint. Little salamander guy that was living in our basement. He was hanging out in a crack in the concrete pad under our dryer. Which is odd, I've lived in this area all of my life and never seen a wild lizard before. I didn't even realize we had them in this area. Anyways, my wife was so freaked out he was down in the basement, she literally would not go down there. But when I finally catch him, she won't let me release him back outside because of the cold weather. And yes, I realize you can't really keep wild lizards as pets. But my son has this little container thing, so we put him in there atleast for over night.

Monkey-see Monkey-Do Happens a lot in this hobby. I could go on a pretty long rant about all of the useless or senseless things people do in this hobby. In all honesty, it doesn't really matter. Even if the amp is over rated by 25% you're not going to hear a difference. As long as you're not running one of those extremely low end amps which rate everything at PMPO or ILS, generally real power output is going to be close enough to rated to not make an audible difference. It's often nice to know just from a manufacturer reputability aspect.....sure, I'll put a little more faith into the general build/design quality and respect for a company if their 500w amp really outputs 500w. But if it only does 400w, you're not going to hear a difference. Unless you are chasing #'s on a meter, it really doesn't make that big of a difference. But to actually measure the true output of an amplifier to the level of detail and accuracy required to compare it to the manufacturer's rated power is generally going to require a professional level measurement setup. A "clamp test" will do nothing of the sort.

It really doesn't even do that... the real responses aren't like the graphs at all when we measured them. These days I don't use a box program for anything more than calculating port tuning as they are so often separated by a big margin from what really happens. How are you measuring them?

The first question is why you would want to "clamp" your amp to begin with? What are you hoping to find out and how will you use that information? "Clamping" an amp in the manor it is most commonly performed provides little relevant or useful information. The reason the measurements aren't accurate are many....for one, you don't know the accuracy of the measuring equipment. Second, measuring power into a reactive load (i.e. your subwoofer) is not a simple Volts x Amps calculation. Third, you are not measuring distortion (even with an o-scope you are not measuring distortion, only when the wave begins to clip). That's just to name a few. So all in all, the results of your measurement will be virtually useless and it will not tell you how much power your amplifier is "really" outputting. About the only way to do that reliably is with a professional level bench test measurement system, which isn't cheap.

You are going to have to get a lot more specific. What is your budget, how much room do you have to work with, what type of sound are you looking for, etc etc.

A hand, yes. Their website mentions several people who had a hand in the design.

First thought is to measure the coils make sure one of the tinsel leads didn't become disconnected.

I can't believe no one has come out with a Bluetooth capable amplifier yet. Skip the fucking headunit, stream it straight to the amp(s). This coming from a guy who doesn't have a smartphone, Ipod or any other techno gadget. Just surprised with the technology out there now that no one has done it yet.

The first peak below tuning is due to the interaction of the driver and the port. The second peak above tuning is due to the interaction of the driver and the compliance of the enclosure. So they are both related to the driver and the design of the enclosure as a whole, but I think the answer to your question would be that the second peak above tuning is due to the driver/enclosure compliance interaction just like you would have with a driver operating in a sealed enclosure. The lower peak arises because now there is a second point of interaction for the driver, it's interaction with the port.

First glance, the SPL figures appear wrong. Based on the listed T/S parameters the SPL (sensitivity) figures out to be 88db for the 6.5", 93.2db for the 8" and 94.2db for the 10"....which is anywhere from 3-7db less than listed in those specs. With those figures you are giving up A LOT of low end output for a smidgen more sensitivity than the "average" driver. Just rough-n-toughing it in Unibox the 8" is going to have an F3 around 120hz...... And I don't remember what the fuss was about these.....but I remember being more than annoyed with Crescendo's representation of them. I seem to recall them saying something absolutely ridiculous like they took the best from every Pro Audio driver but none of the negatives, no trade offs in the design, etc. Really? Because from an engineering standpoint that's not possible. If they are cheap, I guess atleast they have that going for them.

Not sure man. I thin the Bravox us a santoprene single roll surround. Looks like these Crescendo's have a progressive surround. Could be wrong though. The bravoxs also have the progressive surround , pretty cool No, I do not think so, maybe a progressive style spider. The midbass in the 3-way set utilizes the progressive surround as well.

If you presently have 500w total to the subwoofers then the difference between 500w & 3kw would be 7.8db maximum, minus power compression. If you presently have 1kw total to the subwoofers (500w each) then the difference between 1kw & 3kw would be 4.8db maximum, minus power compression.

Have you made up your mind on what setup you want to go with yet?

I'm sure they had a lot more info at CES. Apparently the people who attended didn't gather much of that information, atleast the people posting online.

Sounds to me like there was simply too much power applied, period. If you jump a coil, that's not a fault of the suspension, that's the fault of too much power. In this case I would agree with Phi....if the spider joint broke, then it was either overexcurted to the point failure was imminent anyways or the glue joint was bad to begin with. Either way, if the coil left the gap.....it was way overpowered.

I don't have any info on them, but just Googled it to see if they have a website up yet. Found an article which has some quotes from Matt Overpeck as VP of Sales & Marketing for Audiomobile which made me L.O.L......he pissed off quite a few people in the past and is the one who drove the brand into the ground in the first place. I thought they had sold the name and this was a fresh company, but apparently not with Overpeck still involved. Found a little bit of info at the very bottom of this PASMAG page: http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/buyers-guides/1713-jchiarelli?start=1 Definitely look like they are TC designed again based on the basket.

I don't really understand your system layout. Why are you running Anarchy's up front, Usher's in the rear (which by the way are 7" and not 8"), and then also possibly considering 5.25" rear fill speakers? What is the point of the Usher's in the rear and the Exclusive's as rear fill? To run the front speakers (Seas & Anarchy's) active, you would not. The 80PRS has built in highpass, bandpass and lowpass crossovers. Drop the idea of the Usher's and the Exclusive's. No. First issue is that the sub channel is generally very limited in bandwidth, typically that channel won't go higher than 300hz or so. Second, it's mono and not stereo.....if you are using them as true "rear fill", you would want stereo. It's vague in that I don't understand the logic behind the speaker layout.

You will need to TA the mids. TA on the tweeters is much trickier. Since we generally localize higher frequencies by interaural intensity difference time alignment on tweeters will potentially not change the imaging/soundstage in that bandwidth, depending on how low the xover frequency is. But what will change is the interaction and phasing between the mid and tweeter if you TA the mid but not the tweeter which can potentially cause some FR anomolies around the crossover frequency depending on speaker placement, frequency and environmental factors. My best advice here is to TA the mids then TA the same side tweeter by the same amount and see if you notice a difference. TA shouldn't be too difficult. I've always done it by ear personally. Anything with a good center image should do. When you get the right amount of TA midbass/midrange will become much more coherent and centered, go to far & it starts to lose it's coherency again and sounds a little bit like listening to speakers in a hallway. The first non-music option is to measure the difference in speaker distances between their location and the listening position and use that difference as the setting for the TA (which given the TA is given in distance in the processor, I'm guessing that's how the processing is setup). The other non-music option is to use a good MLS or equivalent measurement setup and measure the impulse difference. Much more accurate, but again I've always had luck just doing it ear. EQ is a little more complicated. Without a well trained ear, doing it by ear with music you're not extremely familiar with (and by "familiar with" I mean "familiar with how it should actually sound on a good reference system" and not just "I've listened to it a hundred times") is basically like throwing darts at a board. Part of the problem with using music is that you end up Eq'ing based on your preferences for that particular song rather than the actual frequency response of the system so you'll get it setup to sound great on that one song but it'll sound wrong on another. If a good measurement system is not an option at this point, rather than worrying about a particular song or songs, I would first familiarize yourself with general tuning principle's and what instruments affect what frequency bandwidths, what anomalies (such as sibilance) fall within which bandwidth, etc. It will help you out a lot when you are listening to music to more quickly narrow down where problem areas may be located. This link may help: http://www.independentrecording.net/irn/resources/freqchart/main_display.htm

I'm not familiar with your processor (H100 listed in your signature, presume that's what you're referring to). Give us a quick run down of what processing power it has (how many bands, center frequencies, is the EQ independent L/R or not, etc) and some details about your system layout (active or passive, where are speakers located, etc). The short answer is that it's made most simple by having access to good equipment such as an RTA or MLS measurement setup. I'm presuming that's not an option.

Yellow is the memory (constant) wire and red is the 12V switched. Not the other way around as you have written in your post. Have you checked the 12V switched wire in the vehicle to verify it's receiving 12V when the ignition is turned on?

Doesn't sound like a warranty claim to me. Warranties cover defects in manufacturing or craftsmanship, not user error.

I was joking.

Because you blew them all?

Depends on what you are looking for. On paper in that enclosure the Icon on 500w would have slightly more output (2.5db peak difference around 37hz) than the Dcon on 300w (keeping the driver within rated power). Listening preferences are going to come down to the user. On a driver bases I would probably expect the Icon to sound a little "better". But in that enclosure the Icon has higher group delay so it may sound a little more "loose". Chances are good the Dcon will sound good enough for the average user. On the flip side you'll probably experience less power compression with the Icon, which has some advantages. Really it's going to come down to preference. With the Icon you'll have 2-3db more output peak, lower power compression and SQ that may be a little better or a little worse depending on your preferences & your feelings on the response in that enclosure. With the Dcon you have more than adequate output for most average users, SQ that's probably going to be more than adequate for the average user, and it costs less than half of the Icon. If you didn't plan on upgrading amps anytime soon, I'd probably recommend the Dcon.