Impious

Not yet. PASMAG tested the P900.4.....output rated power, flat response, no noise issues, reasonably efficient, decent footprint. And at $200 authorized online (SE is an authorized PPI internet dealer), they seem like a hell of an amp. I think I've pretty well decided they'll be my next amps. I'd love to have two Leviathans but too much $.

Why would you look at paying 150% more for that Sundown compared to the Aura? Even if comparing to a used SAX 125.2 the Aura is a much better value. Based on your original request, I think your search would pretty much end with the Aura amp. My other suggestion would be the PPI P900.4. Within your budget, reasonable footprint, bridge it down to 2 channels for 450w x 2 @ 4ohm. Headroom =

SSA

The best option.

I read the thread title and thought "Oh thank god, finally!" Then I opened the thread and saw the date it was started

Mark Potts did 150db dbdrag style on an Orion 2500D (running off 16V) with almost no testing in a Blazer. This was long before he turned into a giant douchebag.

dont bother, better subs can be had for cheaper.... give me a budget price and i can recommend u something Based on what criteria? The new models appear to be good subs, especially when you consider they are only $250 MSRP which is pretty reasonable for a well performing sub in general, much less a "mainstream" brand. Klippel graphs are all pretty linear, reasonable parameters, decent amount of Xmax. Alpine paid attention to pretty much the right things when designing them. I would run one.

Minor correction: that picture I believe is of Doug Winkler's JBL 2118's, this is a picture of Garry's Regal: Regal

Not going to help. You will need time alignment for the midbass at minimum for proper imaging, assuming that's your goal with the SQ install. We localize midbass by time arrival difference between our two ears, you can't fix that with level adjustments. I'm not a fan of the idea of "full range" drivers used on the top-end of a 2way. There are advantages in how low the driver will play compared to a large format tweeter, but IMO the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages. IMO large format tweeter is a better option.

Guess I'll do just that. I'm reading the 10's can go up to 3k so that would help in some way. That's an on-axis measurement. You will not get 3khz out of that driver off-axis. Laws of physics, it will begin beaming well before that point, which means the off-axis response begins go fall off rapidly. Also, just because the FR "looks" relatively flat doesn't mean there aren't issues that in a true SQ install will limit it's use. For example, if you look around 630hz there's about a 5db bump in response, and there's a general bump in response between 500hz - 1khz. There might be a cone breakup node or some other issue in that region that is not easily fixed and that will affect the sound. There might be some distortion issues that aren't readily apparent in that particular FR measurement. Simply put, there's no way to really tell from that one graph what type of high frequency performance you can expect in an SQ oriented install. That 3khz figure thrown out is simply the point where the response starts to fall off on-axis in that meaurement, it doesn't mean the response up to that point is "usable" from a sound quality perspective, and definitely not off-axis in the doors.

And the C-pillars are huge. Just measured, they're almost 24" at their widest, no narrower than 15" Originally was going to go IB in the trunk with a large diameter driver, but that means I'd need to ditch the spare since it's literally in the trunk and lose about half of the trunk space. With C-pillars that big, thinking it might be more fun to see if I can stick a shallow mount 12" in each C-pillar and run them IB vented into the trunk.

I wish it was a f'in wagon Love those things. Snowed here last night. So far this winter if it snows one day, then the next day it'll warm up to 50o and it'll all melt. It's been a really nutty winter.

Yup, brought her home today. Took a while, didn't want to feel like I was swooping in on their stuff as soon as my grandpa passed away. But she called me about it last week, so I didn't feel as bad about it. Dude, it's a car, not a pickup! Unless you're talking about the GMC in the background, in which case, thanks.

Potentially, depending on the FR, distortion and break up nodes of the driver another octave higher. I understand the basic idea of how a diffraction ring operates but don't have actual specific details of designing one, so it would end up being trial & error for him. Really I don't even know if the driver is good up to 1500hz. I know Jacob recommends them up to like 5khz, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they'll perform optimally for a sound quality installation anywhere near that range.

What processing will you have at your disposal? Were you building the carputer for SQ purposes, or just general purposes? I'm not intimately familiar with carputers other than knowing there seems to be some options available for pretty advanced processing (EQ, time alignment, crossovers, etc) in the carputer world, if that's the route you were going with it. You will need time alignment with the mids mounted in your doors, so at the very least find a way to make that happen. With using 10's I'd say your options are fairly limited. Realistically in a 2-way the options are horns or a tweeter capable of playing very low. Horns would not be a great option if you don't/won't have a lot of EQ at your disposal. Finding tweeters that can play down to 1.2khz - 1.5khz or so isn't impossible but will limit your options and will require a large format tweeter. You will want to keep that 10" crossed as low as realistically possible. I don't know the Sd, but if we assume it has a 9" cone beaming will begin around 1500hz. If you start going above that, aiming will become critical or you'll end up with holes in the response that you can't EQ out.

Wasn't a hard find, it was my grandma's They bought it brand new. I actually have the original invoice. Very meticulous records kept on the car, every oil change/etc was logged in a notebook that she sent home with me as well.

New ride, in all of her glory. '94 Roadmaster. LT1 engine. 85K miles. Going to be nice to drive a car again. So fucking sick of driving the damn van.

Clamp results are generally useless. Crescendo is sold directly from Crescendo. Sundown is sold through dealers, which means more margin. Just because the Crescendo is the same price but 1kw more powerful (rated power) doesn't necessarily mean it's a cheaper amp from a build quality perspective. I think it'd be a little difficult to say companies were "copying" Sundown if they were both simply ordering the same OEM board from the same buildhouse. That's what buildhouses do, that's their business....selling the same OEM boards to different companies. More than one company buys that board from the buildhouse. That's how they make their money.

Rated RMS power handling isn't a power recommendation, as I stated above it's simply the point at which things can potentially start to break. It's not a power minimum, it's a recommended power maximum. There are two types of power handling: Thermal and mechanical. Thermal power handling is how much power the voice coil is able to accept before it begins to overheat, which can lead to failure. It is primarily based on the design of the driver; the size and design of the voice coil and how well the voice coil can dissipate heat. Mechanical power handling is how much power the driver is able to accept before you exceed it's suspension/excursion limitations. This is based on both the driver and more importantly the enclosure. Rated RMS power handling is typically a thermal rating. Since mechanical power handling is determined mostly by the enclosure, depending on the type and design of the enclosure it's entirely possible to mechanically damage a driver with the rated RMS power if that enclosure allows the driver to exceed it's mechanical limits with that level of power.

Cost. The Xcons are more than 3x the cost of the Dcon. Not everyone is willing or able to drop $400+ into a subwoofer. On the flip side, you're not going to be able to build a driver than can reliably handle 2kw that only costs $125. So they have driver's available that span both the cost and performance spectrum. The only thing power handling determines is when things start to break. It doesn't mean the subwoofer needs that much power to operate. Just because you have a 2kw amplifier doesn't mean the subwoofer is receiving 2kw. I think you would be surprised by how little power a subwoofer (or any speaker) actually receives when playing music. It's a fraction of the power rating stamped on the amplifier. On top of that, it's based on the volume you are listening to the subwoofer at. Simple way to think about it.....does the subwoofer sound "worse" when you turn the volume knob on the headunit down? The more power a driver receives, the less linear it becomes. Which means it's distortion and other nonlinearities only increase as power is applied. So while not being as loud on 400w compared to 2kw, it will absolutely and will always objectively "sound better" when judged by any metric but shear SPL output.

No, not worth it. By the time you buy the 'scope and the probe you're at nearly $50 with no idea as to the accuracy of the device, and just wasted $50 on an item that isn't even necessary for gain setting.

It really doesn't even do that... the real responses aren't like the graphs at all when we measured them. These days I don't use a box program for anything more than calculating port tuning as they are so often separated by a big margin from what really happens. How are you measuring them? SPL meter in the vehicle under power (~600 watts) at 5 Hz intervals. The giant peak on the ISD graph shown for the Skar woofer simply doesn't happen for instance... the shape of the response is very much like the Obsidian despite a VERY different model. ---- We use box programs to calculate port size and anechoic F3 -- then use knowledge of how things typically react in a car to suggest box spec to customers. Over-studying the graphs in box model programs is something I was VERY guilt of early in my audio years... but I've learned better Well of course the graphs don't match the program, you're measuring in-vehicle I think Duran's point was even though the box programs don't show in-vehicle response, you can compare the relative differences between two different subs. When placed in the same installation, while the response will change, that change will be common to both subs. So you can get an idea of relative differences even though actual response won't be exactly that of the program generated graph. With a little guesstimation you can get a general idea of how the in-vehicle response will look.

So, one of my employees took a loan application from a foreign guy today. His first name is Suketukum. I don't know how that's pronounced where ever the fuck it is he is from, but to me in English that's pronounced "Suck it to cum" We had a good laugh about it

Northeast Indiana.