Impious

That leads to 3 questions: 1) What are these "actual higher results"? 2) What was the test methodology for determining these "actual higher results"? 3) Why is the amplifier not rated at the "actual higher results" if that is the level of their true performance and you're just going to add a disclaimer that the rated power is less than their actual power anyways?

M5, I am not concerned over whether or not you think I "Cower & Cry", or if I don't answer your questions. My customers are taken care of 100% and I did answer in that thread. I am glad you have enough time in the day to waste though worrying about things like this...I assure you SKAR is doing quite well and whether or not you claim your defamation is intentional or not, we both know that you just don't like the brand - which is fine - but also the reason you were instructed you were are not allowed to post in the SKAR section a bit ao,... because clearly other people on this forum see you also wasting your time trying to stir up problems with a company that you have no interest in, etc. So instead of actually answering the question at hand with numbers and real world answers you just zone in on M5's post, your beef/bash with him, and bring up your CS skillz? I don't see anyone stirring up problems, people just want answers. It's easy to give them, believing you did test them at the "real" power. The real numbers will be posted as soon as I am able to do so...I want to make sure they are properly clamped and I am in the middle of a move into a new warehouse. I am not going to clamp them for true results in my personal Ford Five Hundred. That was just done for a ball park idea originally. The sheet specs will do just fine for the interm week... What worries me the most is that you obviously don't understand the uselessness of clamp results, especially how they relate to rated power specifications, or you do understand the difference and are perfectly happy to mislead your customer base into purchasing one of your products. And before anyone else mentions it, yes companies like Sundown also report clamp results on their forum. But if you notice, Jacob is always very careful of how he words the information provided. He never refers to it as anything more than it is; his clamp results. I've never seen him use them as proof that his amps are underrated, or seen him refer to them as "actual higher numbers", real output, etc. People mistake them for that. But I've never seen Jacob represent them as such. Skar, on the other hand, is apparently planning on releasing these clamp results as proof of their "actual higher numbers!" compared to rated power. It would be nearly impossible to find a more inaccurate description of clamp results. It would be even more difficult to find any reputable amplifier manufacturer who doesn't understand the usefulness (or lack thereof) of clamp results and who would mislabel them as "actual higher numbers!". It essentially puts Skar on equal footing with the Pyramids of the world. The fact you consistently delete posts out of your forum that you either can't answer or won't answer is the complete opposite of the principles of this forum. The members here take great pride in the fact SSA is different from other forums because information isn't filtered. People are free to disagree and question without retaliation. Unfortunately, that ended when you got a subforum. Being a vendor on this forum, you not only represent Skar but you also represent SSA. Your actions not only reflect poorly upon yourself and your business, but also upon Mark, Aaron and the great members of this forum. The reason Skar catches so much shit is because of your consistent display of childish, unprofessional and unscrupulous actions along with a past that you can not deny is shady as hell. Your present actions under Skar don't seem to show that you've changed much over time. As Dr. Phil always says; the best predictor of future behavior is past behavior. I think you realize all of this to be true, you just don't give a shit and would rather carry on about your typical ways.

Depends on how much power you're running and your listening habits.

Very good choice.

Moofs said in another thread that he had also asked Kevin similar questions several times and never received a response. I suppose given the fact Kevin originally deleted my post shortly after I posted it (and he is not the one who restored it), that he doesn't intend to give an answer. I thought the answers would have been pretty easy to provide. Guess I was wrong and he was instead trying to hide the fact I even asked by deleting my post?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-642 Comes with everything you need including preassembled cabinets. You solder together the crossovers, install the speakers, wire everything up. It'll be a little project but should still be relatively simple for a novice as long as you can solder.

What would you recommend I look for? It'd be used for music, movies, videogames... And I don't know where to start... Lol I'm only 17 my self and just got into car audio but I have no clue on home audio... Don't try to piece yourself together a set of speakers from Madisound. You don't have the experience for it. I understand your goal, it's just not something easily or sensibly obtained.

Don't. It's just not going to be that easy or worthwhile.

Purchasing the 6.5 components for your home isn't a wise decision. For starters, most car audio companies don't release enough information about the speakers to allow you to build a proper enclosure for them. Second, the crossover would need to be designed for the specific enclosure you are installing them in, and since that's not the way the included crossover was designed, it would be a poor match. Just purchase a set of pre-designed home audio speakers. The subwoofers might not be terrible, depending on your listening needs, as long as they are designed to work ported (output with two 8's sealed in a house would be terrible), and as long as you can obtain an impedance that works with your amplifier (home audio amps aren't stable into as low of an impedance as car audio amps).

A lot longer than 3 days......I've never done business w/ DC before, but IMO for a custom built enclosure + shipping time, anything up to a month would be reasonable. Grab a beer or something, it'll be a little bit yet.

I see that now Which is the antithesis of the principles this forum was founded and is based upon.

This time of year my entire hand is dry, cracked and bleeding.

It's easier to delete posts than learn to understand the equipment and be able to answer questions regarding your own products it seems. He has a habit of just deleting posts anytime he doesn't want to address the questions/comments. Looks like it's still there to me? Maybe he deleted it, then undeleted it? I don't know. He's not responded to it yet though.

The owner of AT is unscrupulous and untrustworthy. Enough of a reason for me to never use nor recommend the product. And a rep from SS or someone who is associated with Second Skin said that there are a lot better options then audio technix. Probably an accurate statement. But the douchebaggery is enough of a reason for me.

Then stick with 1500w, maximum. Your electrical can't really support any additional right now. It's fine to add a 2nd battery, but batteries due not replace the need for a proper amperage alternator. Neither. I prefer Kinetik. Many here have a good opinion of XS Power (see their subforum). A sufficiently large Walmart battery would be fine, too.

SDS is outstanding for both. But the approaches and materials by which you treat rattles and you treat road noise are very different.

The owner of AT is unscrupulous and untrustworthy. Enough of a reason for me to never use nor recommend the product.

Not what I would consider a great mounting location. Best to do as Stefan suggested, grab some velcro and try different locations and aiming, see what sounds best.

Yes, there is such as thing as too much sound deadener. That's not to say that going overboard will result in worse performance, simply that going overboard is an unnecessary waste of time and resources with little to no added benefit. We've all been there, however. Sound deadening for so long was more mysticism than science in our hobby. We all "learned" that excess was optimum. So we stripped our vehicles, laid down 3-5 layers of (asphalt based) CLD, posted pictures online and everyone told us how great we were doing. Thankfully, over the past couple years the veil of mysticism is slowly being lifted and sound deadening is changing into more of a scientific practice, thanks in large part to people like Don @ SDS. So no, you do not need to cover every square inch with multiple layers of CLD. It is a good idea to still strip the vehicle, as you will want to apply CLD to the resonant panels. But 300% coverage isn't necessary. Generally 25-50% coverage is going to be sufficient (with a proper CLD) to adequately damp panel resonance. B-quiet Ultimate if I recall correctly is a buytl based deadener, but has some filler and a thinner foil. It's an okay deadener, not great but not terrible. While price per square foot may be low, you would actually achieve better overall results with less coverage from a higher quality CLD sound deadener. I would highly suggest you get in contact with Don @ Sound Deadener Showdown. He is extremely knowledgeable and helpful and also happens to sell some of the best CLD (sound deadener) on the market. He'll be able to point you in the right direction for quantity of CLD tiles to meet both your budget and your goal, along with the best application of the materials. Also keep in mind that there are many stages to sound deadening a vehicle. Using CLD mat is just one of those steps. Depending on what your goal is, you will probably want some foam to help insulate panel vibrations, and probably some butyl rope as well. I'm assuming your goal is more vibration control than road noise reduction.

Many reasons. Distortion isn't measured. On a reactive load (i.e. a subwoofer) power is not a simple volts x amps measurement. You don't know the accuracy of the equipment.

Wouldn't work. Your only options would be to strap them - when strapped the minimum impedance increases from 1ohm to 2ohm and you can't obtain a 2ohm load out of two 4ohm DVC subwoofers, or run one subwoofer per amplifier - which would be 1kw per sub, or an increase of only 250w per sub, which is a maximum of difference of only 1.25db less power compression....i.e. the difference wouldn't be audible. Not a sensible investment. What is you electrical system?

That's absolute nonsense. The difference between 2500w and 1500w is only ~2.2db before considering the effects of power compression, which will make the difference even less. Meaning the audible difference between those two levels of power is rather minimal, but a large increase in the required supporting electrical system and the increased risk of damage to the driver, not to mention the added cost of the larger amplifier. So the question is really why would you want to spend all of the extra money on more power, increased risk of damage, more required electrical support, for minimal audible difference? Follow up question would be, what type of electrical system do you have?

Clamp test is useless. Ignore it.

Not yet. PASMAG tested the P900.4.....output rated power, flat response, no noise issues, reasonably efficient, decent footprint. And at $200 authorized online (SE is an authorized PPI internet dealer), they seem like a hell of an amp. I think I've pretty well decided they'll be my next amps. I'd love to have two Leviathans but too much $. I'm gonna see if I can find that review. Glad to see Epilson releasing a quality product and not just whoring it out. I love all my old school PPI amps. http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test-reports/1805-test-report-precision-power-p9004-amplifier-

LOL....I love the internet. No, it's not true.