Impious

Would these be more off-the-shelf type parts, or would you (for example) be able to access custom coil winds or odd sizes? I'm not in need of any services, but thought the answer might help others.

Please avoid selling items in the general forums.

Really, what guy doesn't enjoy a 3-way? Well, assuming there's only one guy involved at the time. As for power, I've been running 700w per side for a couple years. Nothing wrong with headroom. Regarding the speakers, never listened to the JBL's or the Morel's. Generally speaking I would be a little more trusting of the engineering behind JBL. But as Ryan has mentioned make sure your install is up to snuff before dropping $1k on any speaker or that'll quickly become money wasted.

What type of time frame are you looking at before you have some details available? Interested in seeing what's brewing.

LOL. Anyways, yes that crossover will technically work as it allows for highpass of the tweeter and bandpass of the mid. Though I couldn't find anything in the manual that specified the slope of the crossovers, however. typically they will be 12db/oct or 24db/oct. But seeing as how that is an important piece of the puzzle and will (for example) determine how low you can set the highpass crossover for the tweeter, I would see if you can find out exactly what the crossover slopes are. If they are shallow it might be a less than idea solution. Also, their terminology is a little stupid. They use the wrong terms to describe what is going on. For example, what they call the "BP Lowpass" is actually the highpass for the rear output when used in bandpass mode. What is your budget? http://www.ebay.com/itm/COUSTIC-DR-DX-28-DIGITAL-REFERENCE-FULLY-ACTIVE-CROSSOVER-OLD-SCHOOL-RARE-/180812062501?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a193d1f25 That would be an excellent piece of equipment if you could get it for about half of what he's asking, as it's value is closer to the $100 mark.

Depends on your goals and a lot of other various factors. That's not a setup I'd personally run or recommend due to the likely difference of time alignment, frequency response and possibility for constructive/destructive interference. They are the same speakers, but in two different locations will potentially end up "sounding" very different at the listening location. Plus the potential difference in time arrival could possibly "smear" the sound for lack of a better subjective description. You might not notice a difference and be perfectly happy. Your install locations might end up being close enough that some of the issues I noted above might not be too big of an issue. But ideally you would have the speakers located on the same plane, same angle and close together as I'm presuming these will be running into the midrange.

Yes, you would want them all to be the same driver. Meaning the same Qts. No, ideally you would not want to run the high Qts drivers ported. If you are looking at purchasing 2 new drivers, your best bet is to sell your current subs and just purchase 4 new "low" Qts drivers.

I couldn't find much good info on the unit. Got a link to a manual or anything?

Are you being serious right now?

How many mids are you running?

Can't say I'd recommend running a 6.5" driver up to 4khz. You will be well into beaming by that point. Hope you don't plan on running them off-axis. That is without even knowing anything about their frequency response and other performance aspects. What I would recommend is looking at a real tweeter instead of a supertweeter. Then again I don't really know much about your setup or goals. But mating any decent diameter mid up to a supertweeter is always a tricky task. Not only do you have beaming to deal with up that high on the mid, but most of them will start running into cone breakup and other issues.

Generally you don't want to ground to a piece of metal that has to bolt to another piece of metal to become part of the car's body. You don't know how well the two pieces are connected, they might have rather poor conductivity between them. If you don't have a frame, try to avoid grounding to pieces that are connected to other areas of the car by seams/bolts/etc. If you have to, ground to a location that is welded rather than bolted. More times than not, you will have to drill your own hole for the ground. Seat bolts are often poor grounding locations.

Well the sub and the amp never got hot. The voltage stayed above 14 volts. What is the price of eggs in China?

Then you are going to have an awfully large gap in the frequency response, as the supertweeters are not going to play down to 2khz. So what speakers would you be using to cover the octave gap between 2khz, where you want to lowpass the mid, and ~4khz where the supertweeters will pick up?

Yes, I've read the post he made about shutting down Exodus subwoofers and the majority of DIYcable, which is what I was referring to in my previous post. The presale is pretty cut and dry. If he gets enough preorders for 150 units by X date (which I don't remember), he'll start a production run. If not, he'll refund the $ and it'll be dead. Which, like I said, I don't believe he'll presell 150 units by the cutoff date. So I really don't see the units getting produced. But IME he's an honest guy to deal with. If I was really interested I would preorder the units and not be too worried about getting my money back. Obviously it's not a guaranty, there is always that risk. But he's earned my trust from my previous dealings. I don't see him running away with the money, and I don't see him pulling an eD and delaying the units indefinitely with excuses. Caveat emptor and to each their own.

I was just getting ready to say the same thing. These questions always sort of baffle me. If the question can be answered by performing the test yourself, why not just perform the test and see what differences you hear instead of posing the question on an internet forum?

From what Kevin has stated he stopped his production of subwoofers and sales of other products, but planned to continue selling the Anarchy's for the foreseeable future. The few times I've dealt with Kevin, he was absolutely wonderful to deal with and had stellar customer service. I would feel comfortable pre-ordering from him. I'm still sort of up in the air about pre-ordering the 4ohm drivers. I really have high doubts he's going to presale enough of them to qualify for the production run, but that's not really his fault.

Which is why I always fail to see why everyone gets excited about a new amp re-brander coming to market.

I had not heard of them until now, that should say something. Odd that a brand named Everest in located in Florida..... Very few have heard of them. But they really haven't been released as of yet either. As far as the logo not really sure why being in Fl would make a difference in the name they use. But from my understanding its for "reaching new heights." I was not criticizing at all, just 'Everest', you think highest mountain in the world. Florida, not so mountainous. Don't worry Aaron, that was my first thought as well when I looked at the website. I expected them to be in Colorado or somewhere, I don't know....with mountains.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38335_Precision-Power-P1000.1.html Won't make you any promises other than the 4 channel tested well and has good reviews.

So you presently have no sound from either the speakers connected directly to the headunit as well as no sound from the amplifiers? Is that correct?

Topic was double posted, I merged them into one. If you already have the equipment, I would suggest you hook it all up and see how it handles it. Difficult to troubleshoot a problem that doesn't truly exist yet, as a large portion of your needs will depend upon your listening habits. Why do you have a double run of positive but only a single ground?

So your saying it is absolutely fine to play hard clipped music at full tilt with no worries of destroying your subs? Clipping is the number one cause of speaker failures and to suggest that clipping can not cause it on it's own is a lie. Clipping leads to the overheating of the coil at a higher rate than you'll see from sending 2 to 3 times the power cause the coil can make use of the full piston travel of a clean sine wave VS. a clipped signal that prevents the speaker from full travel and leads to overheating and finally a failure of the coil. I'm no expert on the matter but clipping and distortion are the bane of all audio and we all strive to have as little of it as possible. Distortion and the shape of the signal aren't what causes damage, it's the fact that a heavily clipped signal contains significantly more average power over time than an unclipped signal. If we were to compare a sinewave to a squarewave, the average power of the squarewave would be twice that of the sinewave. This is because for a sinewave, Vrms = Vpeak * .707 whereas for a squarewave Vrms = Vpeak. It's perfectly possible to send a heavily clipped signal to a driver and cause no damage as long as the level of power does not exceed the driver's thermal or mechanical limits. It's also perfectly possible to send a heavily clipped signal to a driver and damage the driver, but it was damaged because the level of power exceeded the driver's thermal or mechanical limits and not because the shape of the waveform was non-sinusoidal. Yes, the clipping is what caused the power to increase to a level that caused damage. But it was the average power over time that did the damage, not the shape of the waveform.

Sweet deal Are you going to carry their entire car audio lineup in the store?

Same here. I'm going to guess it's so they have a crazy huge peak in a ported enclosure.