Impious

Depends on the type of resonance issues you are having. If you are referring to roof flex issues, honestly the best solution is bracing. It would take an obscene amount of CLD to structurally reinforce a roof enough to greatly reduce flex. If you are talking about simply resonating "noise" coming from the roof, the best course of action is to figure out where the noise is originating and then develop a solution to solve it. CLD on the roof is a good first step to help eliminate some of the resonance in the roof itself. But if the noise is coming from, for example, the headliner vibrating against the roof or braces then some strategically placed foam would further help reduce the noise. I virtually eliminated my rear deck rattle simply by placing a piece of 1/8" closed cell foam underneath the panel (up until the point it would start to vibrate against the rear window, which occurred well beyond my average daily listening volume). Without more details of the actual problem, it's hard to give targeted advice. It's all about determining the actual problem, then troubleshooting that particular problem.

If you are referring to Tim's post, that's because they weren't supposed to be links. He used the "@" symbol without spacing so the forum automatically formatted it as an email address

It's also interesting he sold another 1500.1 back on the 23rd, and a Sundown amp around the same time. It would be the icing on the cake if Kevin was spamming his product on Ebay under an alias. That would officially signify his piece-of-shitness.

You will not hear a difference between 400w per driver and 500w per driver. 400w will be perfectly fine.

Other than referring to the product as inferior and the owner a douchebag (though the later would have applied had Ant still owned SS), then yes my responses would have been the same. CLD is one product that performs a certain function in a properly deadened vehicle, but it's not a singular solution to the goal of quieting the vibrations in a vehicle. I never said anything about 25% coverage and my last post answered your question precisely. The vehicle is in your driveway, go out and measure it. You don't need an internet forum to tell you the square footage of your own vehicle. All you need is a tape measure and calculator. FWIW, I am about to order deadening products for my own vehicle. Guess what I'm going to do first? Go out and measure all of the relevant dimensions of my vehicle so I can figure out how much of what products I'll need in order to cover the area of my vehicle that I plan on treating. It's not rocket science, it's elementary school measurements and calculations. I know you didn't specify brand.....hence the reason I asked what product and added a comment that quality is more important than quantity. Again, our goal is not just to "answer questions" but to ask questions and delve deeper into topics to ensure users are headed down an efficient and effective path toward achieving their goals. What you think is relevant to answering your question, and what is actually relevant to helping you achieve your overall goal are two totally different things. We wouldn't be doing anyone a service if we didn't do the necessary legwork and ask the necessary questions to not just answer the original question asked, but make sure they are also on the right track. You, however and for whatever reason, are narrow sighted and not willing to consider alternate advice. Fine. So I answered your question and will stop trying to make sure you aren't just wasting your money and not actually achieving your goal....which is where you will likely end up if you think a layer of CLD is going to stop all of your resonance issues. Less CLD and more alternate products would probably be a more effective and possibly less expensive solution. But you don't want to hear about it, so be it.

The straight answer is to measure the areas you want to cover. Length * Width = Area. If the area you measure is >50sqft, then it's not enough. If the area you measure is <50sqft, then it's enough. One of our goals here is not just to answer questions, but to offer advice for achieving goals in the most efficient and effective manor. Simple questions don't always have simple answers. Asking the right questions in response will often lead to offering suggestions to improve results. Just because you covered your truck in a layer of CLD does not mean you are going to have the results you desire.

What is your budget?

It depends on what is vibrating and why. For example, if trim panels are resonating the best method of stopping the noise might be some foam behind the panel to stop it from making a noise when it's vibrating. Other types of noise might be best fought with some butyl rope to help keep two pieces of material of vibrating against each other. Certainly CLD is good at reducing some panel vibrations, but it is not going to be the only cure to your problem. This is where dealing with a company like SDS is a much better option than many other deadening companies out there as not only is the owner one of the most knowledgeable in the industry and can offer suggestions to allow you to best meet your goals but he also sells the array of products (some of the best products in the industry as well) that will best help you achieve those goals. Of course you can't get that kind of service, selection and product quality at Audio Technix, but since that's not important to you......

The product is inferior to others on the market and the owner's a douchebag. Apparently that's not important to you, though. Waste your money however you wish. A decent amount for what? It depends on your goals and what you are trying to accomplish.

The quality of the deadener has far more of an impact than quantity. What deadener will you be going with?

This is why manufacturers and dealers hate giving guys "deals". Because if you do it once, they expect it every time. If you don't do it every time for them, the customer bitches and gets upset. They tell their friends about their "deals", so their friends expect the same deal. If the friend doesn't get the same deal, friend gets pissed and bitches about it. People randomly ask for discounts, if they don't get them they get pissed off and bitch about it. This is a prime example. New owners apparently aren't willing to give you the same "deal" Ant did. Tough shit and deal with it. If you're interested, buy the product at the price they offered. If not, just don't buy it instead of bitching about it publicly. If they offered you any type of discount, be happy with what you got instead of bitching it's not enough. They don't owe you a god damned thing, they don't have to give you any discount at all.

I would say it's far more likely they simply have not had time to make their way to your spot in the que yet.

Once the JL "latches" into one of it's "gears" (basically an adjustment of the rail voltage), it operates just like any other amplifier. Meaning if you connect a 2ohm load, the JL will "latch" into the "gear" for a 2ohm load, but from that point as the impedance of the speaker increases and decreases so will the output of the amplifier. It would be fairly undesirable to have an amp with truly constant power. For example, a subwoofer playing at or near Fb would be excessively overpowered if power output didn't drop with the increase in impedance. IIRC in the Carsound review the 1000/1 was only in the mid to high 60's for efficiency. Which isn't terrible, but not great either. The HD amps I believe are more efficient than the Slash series are.

No matter what video I watch, all of the speakers always sound the same....they all sound just like my computer speakers! I can't seem to figure out what the problem is Any ideas?

No, not any type of built in "detector". It was probably the toroids inside the amplifier making noise. You were probably overloading the toroids due to the higher level of current running through them with the gain turned up. That or some of the windings are simply loose so as the power increased they were able to wiggle a little and cause a buzzing sound.

In general it's not a great idea to replace a speaker on a passive crossover with a different speaker. It would appear you atleast have the crossover frequency and slope for the passives, which help some. But if the crossover network also includes a zobel network or anything extra, then it would hamper the results some. Though I'm not sure what the "6/12db" means for the slope. Not sure if that means 6db for the mid & 12db for the tweeter? Either way 2900hz on a shallow slope isn't a great idea in an automobile. IMO a better decision would be to purchase an entire new component set. What is your actual dollar amount budget? Do you have any space constrictions to deal with?

In the case of the Neo8 & Neo10 the difference is because they use different coils, the Neo8's coil is smaller hence the lower power handling.

My buddy was telling me about them a while ago. Exterior looks similar to Kinetik but internally they are not the same....different plates in terms of composite, thickness, etc (IIRC). I believe he said those Krank It Up weigh considerably less than a similarly sized Kinetik. I don't remember the details, it's been a while. But they aren't a rebadge type product to my knowledge. Based on what I've been told I would classify them as a cheap rip-off.

This subforum is not for WTB threads. This is for discussion only. Please wait to obtain the necessary number of posts and then use the forum's classifieds section.

Most car audio speakers aren't designed to perform optimally in a ported enclosure and their crossovers networks weren't designed with the enclosure in mind. It will technically "work" as you can pretty much do whatever you want to do, but the results will suffer using the wrong speakers in the wrong enclosure with the wrong crossover network. The results won't be spectacular.....if you are lucky they'll end up being listenable. Personally I would just search on Craigslist for some decent used bookshelf speakers. Be careful running them ported without a highpass. I don't know what your program material will consist of, but any bookshelf speaker is going to be extremely easy to bottom out below tuning. If nothing else, THESE are $40 for the pair, sometimes on sale for $25. They aren't going to be great, they're a $20/each speaker afterall. But I'm fairly certain they'd be an upgrade from your original plan.

<---- Never had to take SAT or ACT

If you're going to ground there, don't ground on top of that mounting tab. Ground underneath of it, directly to the body. If you ground to the top of that mounting tab, then you are relying upon the quality of the connection between the tab and the body which may not be very good (especially with the mounting tab being on top of the carpet), in which case you are grounding through the bolt to the body rather than grounding directly to the body. You want good surface area contact between the ground cable's connector and the body.

What do you mean? Do you have a picture or anything? It depends on how everything is laid out. If the port fired directly through the rear deck you could make it work. If it just fired "up" into the trunk then no it wouldn't be a good idea.

I do not want green eggs and ham. I do not want them Sam I am.