Impious

I would really appreciate you not saying these things over and over and over on every forum, they are simply untrue. I really could care less what you think is happening here with what part Fi plays with our drivers, and try and spread facts around instead of your opinions masked as facts. What part of that sentence is a lie and not a fact? I believe the point Mark is trying to make is that SSA has significant input into the goals, design and performance of each driver wearing the SSA logo, as opposed simply tossing a logo onto a Fi-designed driver which is generally what you attempt to indicate happens.

Started cleaning up the interior of the Roadmaster today. Must say, it cleans up well, especially for an 18 year old car

My daughter had semi-formal tonight. Luckily going with a group of girlfriends. And she'll be home at 10pm when the dance ends.

We went to a resort in the D.R. for our honeymoon. The van ride from the airport to the resort (and then back to the airport from the resort) are literally the scariest moments of my life.

First question is why do you want to run the subwoofer at significantly more than it's rated for? Second question is do you plan on upgrading your subwoofer in the near future? Third question is what enclosure volume are you using, and do you know the T/S for the X12? Fourth question is what is your overall goal? Unless you plan on upgrading the subwoofer soon, I guess I don't really see the point in moving up substantially in power. You would need to at minimum double the power to enter the realm of audibility and make it worth it (even though depending on power compression, change may not be that great). At that point you are 50% over the power handling of the subwoofer thermally and it may not handle it mechanically, so you are significantly increasing risk of failure. You would probably be $$ ahead to spend the money more wisely....either upgrade the subwoofer, upgrade your speakers, add sound deadening, etc etc.

Apparently Fi isn't the only Fi, even had a product labeled "X" http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/fi-x_e.html

Simple answer is because the Gcon has a more compliant suspension (meaning it's not as stiff) as indicated primarily by it's larger Vas and secondarily by it's lower Fs. The Vas of the Gcon is almost twice that of that SA, since they are both 15's (which means Sd will be approximately equivalent) that means the compliance of the Gcon's suspension must be about twice that of the SA. And although the suspension of the Gcon is almost twice as compliant, the SA's moving mass is nearly 60% heavier, which is why their Fs' are only ~10% different. Vas plays a significant factor in determining how a driver will respond to a given enclosure volume, Qts and Fs play dominate rolls in determining the shape of that response. Generally speaking, a driver with a larger Vas is going to need a larger enclosure for a given response/alignment. If we place both drivers in the same enclosure, the Gcon is going to "see" that enclosure volume as being relatively "smaller" compared to the SA, which is why the response for the Gcon rolls off a little sooner (and it's group delay will be a little lower)

Really not that big of a deal, just glue it back down with some CA glue.

Then yes, don't crank up the bass control.

Have to do the flavorings, or drink it faster. I got chocolate. Over the past couple weeks I've gotten much more used to it....still not great though I've read on the TN forum that doubling up on the flavoring will help, I'll probably try that next time.

Any competently designed class D will be audibly indistinguishable from any competently designed class A/B

Heard about it on NPR today. Was going to search for a vid later. Looks a lot better than I had anticipated, and based on the description of how it works I'm surprised to see that much stage movement. According to the people on NPR, Snoop & Dre are thinking about putting on a new Tupac tour with it.

That gemma pea protein tastes like ass.

According to the manual the tweeter highpass uses a 2nd order filter. Running the passive without the tweeter connected could potentially present a near dead short to the amplifier around the crossover frequency, potentially causing damage to the amplifier. And I really think the "best" bet is to try to locate a direct replacement for the crossover. Anything else will be a bit of a crapshoot on that crossover, and I personally wouldn't try running the crossover without the tweeter connected since there's no zobel & it's 2nd order.

Depends on how the headunit works. On some of them, the subwoofer output needs to be set at maximum to output rated voltage. If you had a DMM & a test tone you could measure them to verify.

That's where I got the gemma pea protein I have right now. Getting low (only bought 2lbs to see how it worked out/how I liked it), so just running through my options now.

Even if it's only 4lbs of protein, it's only like $20....so buying double the amount would still be cost effective.

Anything wrong with that cheap whey protein from Walmart?

Double check & make sure you actually have the sub wired to 4ohm instead of 1ohm. Just an idea.

What features do those amplifiers have for the crossover section? As for the enclosure.....IMO build the largest enclosure you can fit, or build it towards the top end of the enclosure range. You can then always test it & see what you like best.....add some cut down 2x4's to the enclosure to methodically reduce the enclosure volume, see if you notice any change in sound & if you find the change to be an improvement or not. I would not suggest using spikes in an enclosure for an automobile. Ideally you would have the enclosure secured to the vehicle, which would completely negate their effects anyways. But at the very least our resonance problems aren't going to be solved by those little pegs. That is what CLD sound deadening is for.

The circuit board & traces (really a schematic would be MUCH easier to decipher) to know what components were in-line with each output. Yes. If you want something more bright & airy on the top end than the Dyn tweeter, I don't think a full range is going to be for you. Given Dyn crosses the 8" mid @ 900hz on a ridiculously shallow slope, it's possible you might be able to run it a little higher on a steeper slope to mate with a low playing tweeter. If that graph is from the manufacturer I wouldn't put a lot of faith into it. What 4-channel amp do you have? Really that tweeter is crossed high enough that most any tweeter would "work" on that crossover as long as the impedance worked out close enough as to not significantly change the crossover frequency, the sensitivity was similar, and there weren't any funky additions to the tweeter section of filter (which from glancing at the picture in the manual, doesn't appear to be anything besides tweeter attentuation). So it's not easy, it's possible something else might "work" well, but going with another MD102 would definitely be a much safer bet. You might e-mail Dyn, they might be able to supply the rated sensitivity to give you a basis to start working from. Ehh....personally, I'm not a big fan of the idea. If you want to try mounting your tweeters up high, you can try it & see what you think. Personally I wouldn't add a 2nd pair. Hell, just moving your tweeters up high might be enough of a pyschoacoustic effect to trick you mind into thinking the stage was higher. IME I get a lot worse response & a lot worse integration with tweeters up high, especially passive.....but that's just my ears.

No, it's because you didn't properly set the gain. In this case you were using the gain as a volume control. Since the power output to the subwoofer was relatively low (100w), you cranked the gain up way too high to get decent volume out of the subwoofer. Nothing bad happened because luckily, even clipped, the power output was still well below what the subwoofer could handle thermally & mechanically. That's because you are getting more volume out of the subwoofer due to the higher power output from the amplifier. Has nothing to do with where the gain control actually needs set to be properly adjusted, but rather because you are setting the gain improperly & using it as a volume knob. Maybe. Subs do not "want" power. They can handle a certain amount of power, thermally & mechanically. But they don't "want" anything. They don't have emotions. Grab a DMM & a test tone, set the volume to just below where the fuse blows & measure the voltage from the amplifier. Does the amp have any other settings; bass boost, etc? Does you headunit have any settings; bass boost, subwoofer level control, etc? Please learn to properly set your gain. Unfortunately the "by ear" method does not work for you. One of the few instances I would highly recommend the DMM method for setting the gain.

Either way is technically fine. Separate chambers has the advantage that the wall separating the two airspaces acts as a brace to the enclosure, and if one of the drivers fails there is less chance of damaging the other driver. There's really no advantage to a common chamber enclosure, other than it's a little easier to build. Depends on what enclosure volume differences exactly you are referring to. Generally speaking the larger enclosure has a little better output on the low end with the trade off being less peak output. The larger enclosure will have "better" transient response, but that doesn't mean you'll necessarily like the "sound" of it better. Achieving a Qtc of .5 (larger enclosure) is considered to have the "best" transient response performance, but a Qtc of .707 (slightly smaller enclosure) is thought by many to be a better target as it's an more fair trade-off between acceptable transient response, peak output and low end response. Going beyond a Qtc of .707 (even smaller enclosures) will increase peak output while decreasing low end output & worsening transient response. Without knowing your preferences and attention to detail, there's no way to tell which you may like better or if you can even hear a difference. The larger enclosure will have less mechanical power handling. How audible any of these differences are really comes down to how much difference in enclosure volume you are referring to, your music & listening preferences, how acutely you can hear differences, etc etc etc. With a properly designed down-firing enclosure & loading surface it wouldn't make much of a difference. Some subwoofers shouldn't be up/downfired due to the weight of their moving mass compared to the compliance of their suspension. Without running the numbers (which I haven't), I don't know if the Q falls into theis category of subwoofer or not. Why do you ask? Don't do it. Not a good plan. Too many speakers, not enough control over them. It won't sound good and won't really help you achieve your goals without tremendous downsides and trade-offs. How do you know the tweeters from partsexpress will play nice with the Diamond crossover? What impedance was the Diamond crossover designed to be used with, and what is the impedance of the tweeters you purchased? What is the crossover point & slope of the Diamond passives, and what type of filter does the tweeter you purchased require? Does the Diamond passive use any type of zobel filter or anything else on the tweeter portion of the crossover? Don't do it. Not a good plan. Also, certain passive crossover filters will present nearly a dead short to the amplifier if there is no load (speaker) connected to the crossover. So running the crossover without a tweeter may potentially damage your amplifier. You should simply not use the Infinities, period. You should also revisit your plan of using different tweeters with the Diamond crossovers. Based on your questions & statements here, I'm doubtful you've done the necessary research to verify those tweeters & that crossover are a good match. Last, not sure on your vehicle, but most Q-forms aren't great. Majority of them are poorly designed overall.

What is your budget? The crossover doesn't have a zobel or anything else funky on the tweeter outputs, correct? If so, results will be more unpredictable.

Overall good drivers. TC 3HP motor. The surround is retarded huge which decreases cone area, assuming they're the SW91XX drivers. Definitely ported enclosure drivers. Would probably do fine in a house for music.