Impious

Also, not a whole lot of info or a lot of guessing done on the driver measurement pages. For example, on the Z3 page he simply guesses that Xmax is 30mm. How close that is to reality I have no idea....but that's not based on overhang, or 70% BL, or any other empirical method....simply a guess based on the "sound" of the driver when playing it free air. The measurements I saw were primarily just measuring T/S and impedance. Which is okay for maybe verifying accuracy of the manufacturer's T/S and maybe including some that the manufacturer doesn't list like Le....but other than that it seemed to be primarily subjective commentary. Again, okay for a subjective review but not a whole lot of decision-making information being provided.

There are some things I can agree with on that myths page, but some of it is arguable.

I've had the site bookmarked for a while, hadn't looked at it much though. Actually he said outwardly the motors appeared to be similar. That says nothing about similarities within the motor, and frankly he doesn't even give any external measurements of the motor itself to confirm they are anything more than similar in appearance. Also, if you look at the actual measured T/S parameters you can see they are different drivers. The Xcon has a higher Q, lower Fs, lower Le and higher Mms. Plus the Xcon has slightly more linear excursion and I believe higher thermal power handling as well.

Again, it's rather pointless. Actual power will be close enough to rated power that any difference won't matter. Don't trust any of the numbers you've read about. It's 100% likely the measurement wasn't done in a manor that makes those power numbers meaningful.

"Clamp tests" are pretty well useless, so it would be largely irrelevant even if someone has. What exactly do you want to know? Rated power is all you really need to know. Actual power can be off in either direction by ~25% and it won't make a lick of audible difference.

Any of those options will work. Please use proper grammar, coherent sentences and give more details as to your question and needs.

Nothing wrong with a single y-splitter.

There are trade-offs to high efficiency "pro audio" drivers; by designing the driver to have high efficiency, the low frequency response from the driver will suffer. It's a fact of physics, no way around it. By saying it's more of a "midrange" instead of a midbass, what they really mean is that it doesn't play very low with any authority due to the trade-off of the high efficiency design. They don't necessarily mean it's going to perform great up to 4hz. There are some things you can't design out of a driver. One is the loss of low frequency extension as sensitivity increases. Another factor that can't be designed out of a driver is beaming as it's simply based on the diameter of the driver in relation to the wavelength of sound at certain frequencies. This is a problem you are going to run into trying to run an 8" driver that high. There are some other considerations to the behavior of the driver due to it's size, but those two are certainties. I realize you've decided against the 8's, but thought I would give you a little more insight as to why it wasn't a great idea.

You don't clip a subwoofer, you clip an amplifier. Regardless, if you let out the magic smoke then yes you will need a recone. You can take a DMM to measure the coils to verify it's toast. However, I would HIGHLY suggest you figure out why you smoked it PRIOR TO re-installing that driver after it's fixed or another subwoofer. Because if you don't fix the problem, it's simply going to happen again. What amplifier do you have an what are your system settings (gain, bass boost, any settings in the HU that affect the subwoofer)?

That's what I was thinking as well. We just need more information overall about when this is happening. If it happens regardless of volume setting then it might be a connection issue or some other electrical issue. If it only happens at loud volumes then it's likely the speaker bottoming out which means you need to not turn it up so loud and/or raise your highpass filter.

No, they are not. Kinetik has nothing to do with Shuriken. not what a shuriken rep told me........ i would not just make stuff up. Wasn't saying you were intentionally lying, just telling you the info is flat out wrong. Kinetik has no association to Shuriken. Sounds to me like the rep was either misinformed, you misunderstood, or he was trying to sell you on his product by associating it with a product already established in the market. Shuriken might use the same build house, supplier or contractor somewhere upstream (I don't know exactly off hand), but even then that doesn't mean they are the same, similar or equivalent. In fact, they aren't any of the above. Just at the basics, the weights of the batteries are different (that's not the only difference, just one example). What's the rep's name? If you don't want to say it in the open, feel free to PM the info. Seriously, I would like to know.

No, they are not. Kinetik has nothing to do with Shuriken.

Agreed. Are kickpanels out of the question? Also.....good lucking running an 8" driver up to 4khz. You will want them to be as on-axis as physically possible otherwise the top end is going to drop off like crazy. That's ignoring the break up nodes and other issues you are going to run into running that large of a driver up that high.

Is it the 80% rule for every year? To be honest, I don't even know if it's true. It was just shoved down our throats by the profs through all 4 years of college

80% of new businesses fail in the first year. 80% of the remaining businesses fail in the second year. 80% of those businesses fail in the third year. So, there is a ~99.2% likelihood the business won't survive past 3 years.

Many manufacturers "recommend" small enclosure volumes simply because they have a higher peak output which makes the average consumer think the product is "better". That doesn't mean the recommended enclosures are optimal for the driver. Hell, I never even look at manufacturer suggested enclosure volumes. They don't know what I look for from a performance aspect, and I don't know what they were aiming for from a performance aspect when they suggested those enclosure volumes. I take the time to design my own enclosure, or lack there-of since I generally run my drivers IB (even when they might not be specifically "suggested" for IB use by the manufacturer). It's the only sensible way to go about it. As far as I know, Scott for the most part doesn't really use enclosure modeling, target curves or target Qtc's to recommend enclosure volumes for his drivers. He uses his experience with the driver to suggest the range of enclosure volumes that most consumers would prefer. So the results will all vary slightly when plugged into enclosure modeling software. You apparently know how to use enclosure modeling software....if you're not happy with the recommended enclosure volumes, model something else that you would prefer more. I fail to see why you are having such problems or making an issue out of something that really isn't an issue? Again I say it seems like you're trying to make a big deal out of nothing.

I would make some suggestions, but first I would want to know atleast how much volume you actually have to work with.

I haven't looked at the website, but a Qtc of .55 is not "very low". A Qtc of .577 is a standard Bessel alignment, Qtc of .5 is critically damped and has optimal transient performance. Meaning, many people throughout the world aim for a Qtc around those values. Given we are in an automobile, we don't need a Qtc of .7 as we don't need the lowest possible F3 since we have cabin gain to help fill in the bottom end. So, just from your post it doesn't appear there is anything wrong with either the TSP or the suggested enclosure volumes. The suggested enclosure volumes from any manufacturer are exactly that: suggestions. It doesn't mean you can't use the driver in a different alignment if you so choose.

Is this for metering or daily driving? If it's for daily driving, I honestly wouldn't bother. You're looking at 2.5db before power compression, so realistically somewhere less than 2db. It might be an audible difference best case not dramatically so, especially considering the added expense and increase in necessary electrical system. If you want more output, look at redesigning the enclosure first.

Manual says error-01 is a communication error. We know it's not the cable since other devices work with the same cable. I would guess it's not the headunit again because it works with other devices. Do you have anything you can plug the Iphone in to using that same connector to see if it's a problem with the Iphone?

Why not call or email Pioneer directly?

Even a carefully maneuvered jigsaw would do the job. Sanding block or electric sander would be the safest and cheapest way to go about it.

My ability to interpret FEA modeling is admittedly elementary. But, based on the thickness of the top plates & top magnet, the SPL coil version only has 10mm one-way of coil overhang and, if I'm understanding the basic representation of the FEA model correctly, due to the concentration of flux the fringe field doesn't extend much beyond the coil itself. How is it able to achieve 70% BL @ 25mm when it appears it will begin loosing BL comparatively rapidly as soon as the coil travels ~10mm? Not busting your balls. Trying to improve my understanding.

Makes sense I presume based on the motor force the overhung driver is going to be a low Q ported enclosure oriented driver?

I find it hard to believe they would destroy inventory rather than selling it to recoup their costs.