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Everything posted by Impious
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No. That amplifier is outputting more than 750w (assuming you have it running @ 1ohm, I don't remember the thread & not searching for it). If we assume the amplifier is indeed over rated some and is only outputting 1200w and you "upgrade" to a 2kw amplifier, the difference is only 2.2db before power compression, realistically you'll end up somewhere around 1.5db or less. That's not a difference you are going to hear.
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You are not going to hear a difference between that Hifonics and any amp of similar rating. As stefan said, you'd need to double the power output to end up with something that is hopefully louder. If you want to change amps for some other reason (size, features, etc) then it might be worth it. If you want to switch amps just the "hear a difference" then it is absolutely not worth it.
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So it makes the noise all of the time when the car is running, and not just when starting the car? Sounds like a ground issue. Just because you have it grounded to metal doesn't mean it's a solid ground depending on the return path. Also could be an issue with the ground at the headunit. Make sure all of your connections are good as well. Follow the noise troubleshooting guide stickied in the amp section, should help you track down the noise.
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Could be a bad ground at either the amp or the headunit. Could be the timing of the components turning on. Could be some other things. What equipment do you have and how is it all wired? Just to eliminate the amp as the problem, try unplugging the RCA's and see if it still happens.
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That is quite possibly part of your problem. Most car audio mids are designed to be used infinite baffle in a door, putting them in a small sealed enclosure is going to potentially suffocate them and kill the midbass response. You need to determine how much airspace you have in there. What I've done in the past is create an opening in the rear of the kickpanel that mates to an opening in my kickpanel area that vented to the fender well....making my kickpanel an infinite baffle. Second option is to try cutting a hole in the back of the kickpanel and vent it into the carpet. This of course assumes you have some fiberglass skills to potentially fix anything that causes a negative instead of positive change. You can see what I'm talking about in my build log for my old kicks:
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Midbass has a lot to do with installation. I assume this is a door installation. Have you deadened & sealed your doors? If not, that's step one. No sense in changing speakers until you have the installation solidified.
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It is. It's called "salesmanship"
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I presume a passive crossover? Terrible idea. Without knowing the crossover frequency, you are just throwing darts at the board. If you don't use drivers of the same impedance as the crossover was designed to be used with, you will change the crossover frequency and end up with giant gaps in the frequency response. If the passive has any built-in extras, such a zobel networks, they will be rendered useless and change the behavior of the crossover. Generally speaking it's less than ideal to use a passive crossover with any speakers other than those with which it was designed to be used. I think you need to take a step back and come up with a better plan for something within both your budgetary, equipment and knowledge constraints. No offense, but based on your posts in this thread I don't think an active setup would be a great plan for you right now at this moment in time. I think your best plan of attack would be to find a good pre-designed component set. What are your speakers right now?
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I don't care what the website says. Don't use that driver up to 5khz.
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I'm not sure I understand. You were going to run both 8" mids together in parallel bridged from the amp? DO NOT do that. What were you planning to use for a crossover?
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LOL....they aren't useable up to 5khz, atleast not by my definition of "useable". Depending on your definition of "useable" you could claim an 18" subwoofer is "useable" to 20khz. How are the mid and tweeter going to see 250w ?? That amp is rated 80w x 4 @ 4ohm
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Didn't answer all of the questions. Need to know the model of the midbass, what your goals for the system are, what equipment you will be using, what your preferences are if you know them, etc etc.
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Would need significantly more details about the system, goals, etc. Most importantly the model # of the mids, Selenium made more than one 8" mid.
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wiring diagram help
Impious replied to chuck_norris's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Personally I would probably just wire one amp per coil. Saves the issues of figuring out how to strap, a simple DMM can be used to match the amplifiers, and there's no loss in performance. -
You are not going to want to mate an 8" driver to a supertweeter. Really most 6.5" driver's won't really work well either. Supertweeters don't play low enough, any driver of reasonable diameter isn't going to play high enough unless you plan to aim them all on-axis and even then that only partially solves one of many issues. Best solution is to ditch the supertweeter and use something more logical.
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Country and rap are the same thing. Both talk about nothing but women, drinking and their vehicles.
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I was literally reading this sentence when my son walks in and asks if he can eat some pickles. Gnarly.
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I was unaware it was a consistent problem. My bad.
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Let's keep the classifieds in the classifieds and not in OT.
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Just as an FYI, this is a message Don just posted on another forum a few hours ago. I hope he doesn't mind I'm posting it here, but it explains why it can sometimes take him some time to respond to a message:
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What are the details of the enclosure they are in now, and how much room do you have in the vehicle that you are willing to dedicate to the enclosure?
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Took you up on your sarcastic suggestion and performed some "real world tests". Measurement system consisted of my laptop connected to an M-audio Mobile Pre using a Dayton EMM-6 mic. This was connected to my HT receiver driving a Coustic 306P 7" mid. So this includes the entire signal chain, from source to amplifier to speaker reproduction. I used HOLMImpulse to perform the measurements. The short cables consisted of a 3' Dayton RCA cable and 3.5' length of Stinger 14ga speaker wire. The long cables consisted of a 17' Stinger RCA cable and 10.5' length of Stinger 14ga speaker wire. The first (red) measurement was with the short RCA cable & short speaker wire. The second (blue) measurement was with the long RCA cable and short speaker wire. The third (green) measurement was with the long RCA cable and long speaker wire. As you can see from the graph, the measurements at the initial impulse for all three measurements pretty well overlay each other. Within the resolution of the measurement (tenths of a millisecond), they are for all intents and purposes identical. If there were going to be significant differences due to cable length, it would be revealed here in the impulse measurement as the "slow" signal cable transfer would have an initial impulse later in time. The results indicate rather definitively that there is not going to be any real world difference in the performance of the system due to any realistic differences in speaker wire (7' difference) or RCA cable (14' difference) lengths within a typical car audio system. In summary.....the physics dictates that the differences are beyond the realm of audibility and well below a level that would affect system performance in the slightest. Real world testing confirms this to be true as there was no realistic difference in impulse response time between cables with relatively large (relative to typical audio cables) length differences. So, we are left to revert back to my original analysis. You are simply attributing the issues you experienced in various systems to the wrong variable. The variable you are attempting to claim was the cause of the issue, delayed signal transmission due to varying lengths of cables, can simply not be the cause......either directly or indirectly. If you have an explanation as to how any of the systems you described were able to defy the laws of physics, I'd be more than interested in hearing about it. Otherwise, we'll agree they obey the laws of physics and you're understanding of the cause of the the issues within the systems was simply incorrect. *For reference, the impulse is negative because the mic was located on the rear side of the speaker when I measured. Also, an absolute time measurement isn't important here, we simply needed to determine what the relative differences in impulse time between measurements were. As long as the results are consistent, the absolute value isn't of consequence. So the absolute value of the impulse isn't properly aligned as I simply didn't take the time to mess with it as the results were consistent. I took multiple measurements with each cable to verify the results were consistent with each cable. Damn, the picture is smaller than I had hoped I think it still conveys the information though.
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I haven't overlooked anything you have said. You are overlooking the fact you are ascribing the issues you had to the wrong variable. It wasn't due to differences in arrival time of the signal due to differences in cable length, either directly or indirectly. You have yet to give any explanation consistent with the laws of physics that would allow what you have stated to be true, other than "I've seen it, so just believe me." You've stated scenarios in which you think it was the cause of the issue, and again I will tell you that you are ascribing any differences to the wrong variable. No matter what cable was used, no matter what amplifier was used, no matter if they were common chamber or separate chambers.....the signal transfer is going to be such a significant percentage of the speed of light that it is not the issue. If I get time later and if I can get my measurement setup to work properly, I will measure the difference in impulse response between different cable lengths and post the results. If what you are claiming is true, then it will be readily apparent in the impulse response measurements.
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For the love of god I wish people would quit using that term just because they have found something else they like that is less expensive.