Impious

No, the CA glue is to bond the surround and spider to the basket and attach the dustcap. The leads are sandwiched in the spiders, so the only thing you'll have to do with those is solder them to the terminals.

The fuse is there to protect the wire itself. It keeps the wire from passing too much current, heating up and potentially causing a fire. Which means it's not just the stated wire gauge but the actual current carrying capabilities of the wire. For example, some CCA wire or undersized cheap wire may have lower current carrying capabilities than a true 0 gauge copper wire and would need to be fused accordingly. The one caveat I will add is that some amplifiers are not internally fused. If this is the case then you need to fuse to whichever has the lowest fusing requirement, either the amplifier or the wire. But as long as the amplifier(s) have their own internal fusing, you select fuse size based on the current carrying capabilities of the wire.

Hope that cleans up easy, looks like you oversprayed onto your paint.

If you literally only use one of the 2-channels then no, all of the power will not go through that one channel. Power output may go up just a smidge (a measurable but otherwise meaningless amount) compared to utilizing both channels as the power supply would be under less stress and such, but otherwise no realistic and no audible difference in output would result from only using 1 channel. The amplifier would still be restricted by the rail voltage and current capabilities of that particular channel as far as output is concerned. However if you are talking about bridging then the power output would be that which the amplifier is rated to provide when bridged. More information about what exactly it is you are doing would be helpful.

Forgot to mention there is also the option of just finding the horn bodies themselves and purchasing your own compression driver to mate to the horn body. It's not plug-n-play necessarily as you need to find a compression driver that will properly mate to the horn body and throat but it's possible to do. Also might be possible to contact Eric Stevens (former owner of Image Dynamics) directly and see if he is offering any horn bodies/HLCD at present as I'm not really sure if he has any old stock he's selling and such. Though I will caution that I usually only recommend them on here in more extreme circumstances and they require proper tuning to obtain good sound quality and that's not something easily mastered.

You can't find the Illusions anywhere because they are no longer available. Illusion hasn't been around in probably 10 years, their website is active because they have been claiming to be coming back for about 4 years now but nothing has ever really come of it. Only option is to find them used. The Krypt audio that I can find are horn loaded co-axials, not the same thing at all as car audio style horn loaded compression drivers. They are extremely prevalent in pro audio and you can find dozens of them at places like parts express but I would highly advise against them in car audio without having very extensive knowledge in installation and those particular driver's behavior. Only other real options are USD Audio which I don't believe is sold anywhere online and Image Dynamics which is now semi-defunct. In both cases your best and most viable option is to find them used. There were some other smaller quantity options that you might find along the way as well, but they are far more rare. Veritas made some horns many years ago that were a good design and metal bodies but extremely rare. Crystal made some horns for a very short period of time but I don't believe their horn design was that great. Audiobahn believe it or not made horns for a short period of time as well, there are a couple sets here and there but I wouldn't even bother with them. The horn design was good because it was literally a direct copy of the Image Dynamics horns but made out of much lower quality material and much lower build quality.

Because it's not a matter of opinion, it's a matter of fact. Our "opinion" is based on the physics involved. Your friends "opinion" is based on the nothing but misconceptions and untruths. That's what makes our statements (which are not opinions) different from the opinions you've heard, and what makes our statements (not opinions) more qualified than your friends and yes, more accurate as well. If you understood the physics involved you would understand why your friends "opinion" and the information you were given by them is flat out wrong. And yes, apparently our statements are significantly different than the people you've talked to as our statements are based on physics and facts and theirs simply are based on nothing but misguided and ill-informed opinions. Take any subjective experience you've had with 18" subwoofers and throw them out the window as they don't mean a thing. Seriously.

Find them used. ID has minihorns which have less depth. USD makes horns but they are spending. This guy has some old Illusion Audio horns which are good but metal bodies so they are heavy, price is a little high but a good option for horns: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/134026-fs-full-body-illusion-audio-horns-w-de500-motors.html Personally I wouldn't trust either of those mids you have listed. IMO much better options out there from brands previously mentioned in this thread.

I'm sure you did read it on a forum (though definitely NOT this one) and heard it from friends. We're just telling you that info is flat out wrong. It's an old wives tale.

Quite the contrary; assuming one has the necessary space, the largest diameter driver that can fit within a given space is generally the best choice. It provides the most peak output capabilities, generally provides better low frequency extension and with it's increased cone area provides the same output as a smaller diameter driver with less distortion.

Just to clarify; it is entirely possible to design a "precision SQ" car audio system out of pro audio drivers. It has been done dozens of times. More times than not their performance is superior is almost every regard to the speakers generally used in this hobby.

As 95Honda said quality "pro audio" drivers are every bit as good as any other driver on the market and significantly better than most any car audio marketed driver. They give up low frequency extension in exchange for efficiency, but in terms of distortion and other factors there are very good quality driver to select from. Eminence is a good value, 18sound, Faital, B&C, Ciare, BMS, etc all make quality loudspeakers. JBL's pro audio line are always top quality in performance and design. The JBL 2118H (8") and 2123H (10") are great drivers with a long history of being used in vehicles especially by the Team JBL guys.

"Supertweeters" are a terrible idea in any situation. HLCD (actual car audio designed horns, none of the cheap pro audio crap) and 8"-10" pro audio mids is about the only real viable option.

Higher preamp output voltage will only make a difference if the noise induced in the signal transfer is high enough to be audible with a lower voltage preamp. If you don't have audible noise in the signal transfer from the headunit to the amplifier, then a higher preamp voltage will make absolutely no audible difference at all**. You won't notice anything different about your system or how it sounds because of the higher preamp voltage. ** With a higher preamp voltage, you MUST readjust the gain. With a properly matched gain, there will be no audible difference assuming the signal-to-noise ratio with the lower preamp voltage was low enough as to not be audible. The only other case where a higher preamp voltage might make a difference is if the amplifier is noisy with a higher gain setting. But this is really the fault of the amplifier, not a fault of the lower preamp voltage. That said, there might be other features in a headunit that will allow you to adjust the system in a way that improves the sound. But I honestly haven't clicked either of the links, I was simply responding to the question of preamp voltage.

Yes, they are good little amps. Unfortunately the PPI are on indefinite back order. Luckily there are a half dozen other amps that use that same board...just choose what name you want on the heatsink. Pretty sure M5 listed them earlier in this thread.

They can afford it . Has absolutely nothing to do with the company affording it. You the customer purchasing the product are paying for everything involved with that product including the packaging material. Some portion of that $$ you are paying to Sundown or the dealer for whatever product you purchase is going to pay for the packaging of the product. It doesn't come out of the companies bottom line, it comes out of your pocket. That said, I agree with Fi's packaging being on the less spectacular side of things.

If you sent them then I assume you have his address. Contact the local P.D. and file a complaint for theft. Also if you sent them by USPS (Post Office) I would contact them for mail fraud, they take that shit seriously.

Unless it's for competition I wouldn't even waste the time/money adding a 2nd amp.

Is this for daily driving? Competition? What vehicle is it going in? What is your music selection? Is sound quality important to you, or strictly output?

Depends on your space, goals, etc etc. You need to give significantly more details.

You speak on ill-informed knowledge and speculation. What's ill-informed? Lol should I even start to reply? There is no speculation... Pete actually does all of those calculations and models to test output, and there is nothing ill-informed because his results speak for themselves. Guys who ask him for a box design and get one from him... Then question it are always wrong. One guy placed an order, gave all his info to Pete... And Pete came back with a sealed box that would give him maximum output in his situation with his equipment... Needless to say he didn't believe "Pete's mumbo jumbo" and proceeded to try over 6 different box designs to find out non of them even came close to the frequency response and the output of his box. So the guy paid Pete.. Thought he was full of crap... Build 6 other boxes wasting idk how much money and time... Just to find out Pete was actually right and he just doesn't make up numbers like some people think. Who is I'll-informed? Well I doubt its me on this topic. Sounds to me like you're just trying to justify the $$ you spent to yourself. PWK is not the end-all be-all of enclosure design.

There are far more compromises going the route of multiple speakers than there are going with high efficiency (pro audio) speakers. Frankly the route of multiple component sets/multiple speakers is the worst option. That said I agree with M5, a 6.5" high efficiency driver is a midrange and nothing more.

So they will be at the base of the pole? Was just curious as with the thickness it didn't appear they were going to be a full pole sleeve. Seems like an interesting concept, interested in seeing the results.

And for once, due in no way to their own fault. Simply a shitty situation Mike got stuck in.

Where in the motor and what thickness material?