Impious

Thanks. That's pretty much right where I was guessing it would end up.

Anybody know how much room there is behind the seats of a standard cab '00 F150 ? Neighbor asked me to help him find some subs and an amp, I was in the middle of MLV'ing my trunk so I didn't bother trying to grab any measurements or anything but figure they're popular enough someone on here has probably installed in one of them.

Built well and designed to handle their rated power with ease. No worries on either area of concern.

Chances are good in most of the instances people are running an amplifier rated for more power than the SA's are rated to handle but they are not truly applying that much power to the subwoofer. As Tirefryr said, purchase a subwoofer capable of handling the power you intend to use or stay within the power guidelines set by the manufacturer of the subwoofer you are using. Overpowering a driver will void any warranty as burnt coils or a wrecked suspension are clear signs of abuse and not covered by any warranty regardless of manufacturer. I will however say the Gcon line was designed to comfortably handle their rated power thermally.

Not all ~7" mids can be ran up to 2.5khz. So it does inherently limit the mid selection.

What is your budget? More details on your goals? Just off the cuff.....ditch the Audiocontrol gear. Significantly better single package digital processor solutions to mess around with the outdated analog Audiocontrol gear. Depending on your goals and needs it might even be a wise decision for simplification to replace the HU with something that as features built in. Ditch the rear fill....if you absolutely must have something back there, just keep the stock speakers ran at a greatly attenuated level. Personally I'm a Kinetik guy.

There is absolutely zero point in discussing EQ's or suggesting options until this, at minimum, is answered.

After 4 pages we still don't even know something as basic as what mid the tweeter will be mated with. We could all "recommend" dozens of products, but those recommendations are useless as there is extremely limited information to go on so it's all just throwing darts and blindly tossing out model numbers......which isn't helpful or productive in the slightest.

One nasty, demanding or the like emails, and you refund half of their payment instantly. The other 50% is to cover the asshole/fucktard tax you're imposing, and for wasting your time and bandwidth.

What exactly are you looking to do? What are you trying to fix?

Wish AE kept the store on their website more up to date. I couldn't find anything about them on there.

Thankfully we have transfer function to take care of a large portion that EQ function, as long as Fs is low as well (~20hz in my experience) Obviously you don't want Q to be too low, but IME once placed in a vehicle a Qts around .35-.4 with a low Fs provides great in-vehicle response and generally the low end is still a little on the strong side and needs Eq'd down a bit for a truly flat response.

I spy an SI HT subwoofer. Excursion is reasonable at 20mm, which is of course important for IB just like sealed enclosures. Models nearly identical response wise to my Shiva-X, low-mid Q and low Fs. Looks good for IB in a vehicle to me. I dislike recommending specific products, but I believe AE also has the SBP4 which was designed to work well IB in a vehicle and generally John builds a very good subwoofer. No idea on cost though.

It depends on what you mean by "most accurate". Distortion is higher with sealed/IB than a ported enclosure playing near tuning, although distortion is also much less audible in the subbass region. Transient response depends on where the final Qtc ends up being at, although generally the damping will be probably better than ported. One of the nice things is that pressure is much closer to even on both sides of the cone which can solve some linearity issues. I've ran IB for several years, haven't used an enclosure in years and have no desire to do so, except for a couple weeks last year which was just for shits n giggles. The space savings is simply phenomenal, sound is still very good and low end efficiency is improved. What do you have for an EQ? Home audio oriented IB subs such as the IB3 will end up being extremely bottom heavy when installed in a vehicle due to their high Qts and low Fs so the low end will always need tamed down. Likewise and especially in a small'ish trunk, they'll often experience an increased Qtc as well which may or may not bump it up beyond an acceptable level for your listening tastes due to their already high Qts. Personally I've had best luck with low-mid Qts and low Fs subs. My last IB sub was an Exodus Shiva-X with a Qts around .4 and Fs around 20hz. The bottom end was still strong and still needed EQ'd down a bit to be closer to flat, although I didn't mind the mildly heavy bottom end as it wasn't overbearing. Any sub can be ran "infinite baffle", you just have to be able to predict how it will respond and see how it matches your goals and/or if you have the EQ to fix response issues. In car audio there are typically two options to achieve relatively flat in-car response without much EQ.....low Q/Low Fs and high Q/High Fs. Those two options keep the F3 on the higher side to keep the low end from bloating once cabin gain is considered. The high Q/Fs route may have the problem I noted above of too high of a final Qtc depending on trunk space, which is why I like the lower Q/low Fs option the best as you'll almost always end up with an acceptable Qtc even if you carry some shit in your trunk. High Q low Fs drivers like used in home audio have a very low F3 which when combined with cabin gain needs tweaked to get right and they generally have a very large Vas so they experience an increase in Qtc once installed in a vehicle trunk. What is your budget for subs?

Generally easier to get good subbass results in a single common airspace (such as your Jeep) than in a car with rear seats from the trunk. 12" Dcon in a ported enclosure will get loud enough to satisfy all but the true bassheads. Based on what you've said in this thread I can't imagine you'd be unsatisfied with the Dcon. For the average user the output should be more than enough.

Nothing wrong with a 3- or 5-channel amp if it meets your requirements. IMO it limits future upgrades, but that may or may not be an issue for you. The SSD and Dcon are simply different subs. The SSD doesn't "require" more power, but is capable of handling more power. The SSD has a slightly larger coil and is capable of a little more output at the expense of higher cost. For a budget minded sub I don't think you'll be disappointed with the Dcon though.

I didn't like the one kompression fitting that I've used. But part of the problem was that it was 0/1ga and the nut for the fitting was wider than the block was tall, so the nut would scrape/jam on the base whenever trying to tighten or loosen the nut. It was a gigantic PITA and I'll never use them again simply based on that one experience. Left too bitter of a taste in my mouth.

There are far less compromises in finding a tweeter to go with a mid than the other way around. Choose a mid first, then look for tweeters.

What exactly was the need for filing it the instant the package was opened? If you take a minute to look at their track record it's more than evident that Aaron & SSA hold customer service as one of their top priorities by responding quickly to every customer issue and resolving all of them to the customer's satisfaction. I don't think anyone is suggesting that you be pleased you received a damaged subwoofer, but filing a claim with paypal before you've given the company the opportunity to resolve the issue with you seems asinine. Hell, according to your plan you would have filed a paypal claim before you even informed the company there was an issue. It just so happened you didn't notice the damage earlier. It seems more like you wanted to prove you were pissed off and throw a bitch fit by filing a claim immediately rather than actually work with a company with stellar customer service to resolve the issue you unfortunately encountered. Everybody has encountered an issue with a company or product at some point in our lives, some of us are capable of handling the issue maturely.....others are not. The OEM's shipping habits are no secret. They ship thousands of subwoofers per year with comparatively limited issues.

No, they can't, they don't and they won't. No matter how many times you ask. That's simply not how Fi operates. If you can't stand the wait, buy something else.

Yes, it is. You've already been told the information that's available. When Fi is ready to release the drivers, they'll release the information about them and availability. That's the way they've always done business, and I doubt they'll change their methods just for you. They don't release availability dates before they are ready to be released. When Fi is ready to sell the driver's, they'll let people know they're ready for purchase. If you need drivers immediately, start looking at your other options.

Yes. Connecting the female harness to the stock harness will be plug-n-play. For connecting the aftermarket harness to the female harness simply match colors; i.e. Yellow to yellow (12V constant/memory wire), red to red (12V switched lead), etc. On the aftermarket side of things (the headunit and female harness) the colored wires are pretty well standard across the board.

EXACTLY what I was thinking. I see the letter from Alex....who the hell is he? And who is Matt Tower? What happened to Ben?

Most of the products I've had from them weren't good at all, they were pretty obviously extremely cheap and lower quality in their design and construction, though their customer service was top notch. Just glancing at the page, assuming they used a quality buytl compound designed to actually function as a constrained layer damper it should be fine although there isn't enough information on the website to determine how effectively it actually performs as a CLD. The price seems relatively in-line with comparable products. However, I will also say that there is more to being a quality provider of sound deadening than selling a good product. They also need to have the experience and technical understanding to be able to assist customers in their purchase and application of the product to allow them to achieve their goals in the most efficient, effective and cost effective manor. I doubt anyone in the industry will ever be able to match Don in that arena, which is why he'll continue to be the only person/company/product I'll recommend. What have you bought from Knu that wasn't good quality? Fused and unfused distribution blocks. I had a 0/1ga to 4ga unfused block with the Kompression fitting. The nut for the fitting on the 0/1ga side was wider than the block was tall so it would hit the base and jam when you tried to tighten or loosen it, which made it a total PITA to use. I had a 4ga to 8ga fused distro block that arrived broken which was obviously from the factory overtightening the screws and cracking the plastic. I had a 4ga to 8ga unfused block and the set screw holes were drilled crooked and off center. Out of the order of 5 blocks I had problems with 3 of them. It was just overall low quality and quality control. However I will say when I emailed them & told them about the broken block I had a replacement on my doorstep 2 days later. Communication was quick and they replaced it no questions asked, didn't even request the broken one back. I didn't like the products but I won't take the quality of their customer service away from them, it was top notch.

Typically it's a grounding issue either at the headunit or the amplifier.