Impious

Make it sound better. I will be using cresendo tweeters with cresendo crossovers If you are talking about the PWX-6 and the bullet tweeter then no, that is a terrible setup. Though for having 1700 posts your ability to make a meaningful thread is rather abysmal. "Make it sound better" isn't a satisfactory response to my question of goals if you are truly looking for assistance.

There is a list of things it could be used for. That isn't the issue. The bigger issue is do you need to spend $150 on a tool in order to do those things? And you don't. Competition is one area where it has absolutely no use. IIRC even SMD and Tony have admitted this. To suggest that every competitor uses or needs to know where 1% THD is from their amplifiers is absolute nonsense. It's about what gives best results on meters. Some competitors will intentionally run the amplifier into slight clipping to increase power output. They don't need to know where 1% THD is, for their purposes distortion is a meaningless number; all they care about is SPL on a meter. If higher clipping allows for more power output and higher numbers on a meter, then that's all they care about. And they will test and test and test then test some more to figure out what gives the desired results; they would not pay any attention to something as useless as the DD-1 to tell them where that level is. Why is this vital information? I can tell you I've owned dozens of headunits over the past 15 years, and installed dozens more in friend's vehicles/etc, and have never once checked to find the clipping point of the outputs. If you use 0db you are leaving volume control on the table. Music as you pointed out will never reach that level for potentially anything more than transient dynamic peaks (that last milliseconds). So you set it using 0db, then play a song with an average level of -6db and are confused why you can't seem to get any real volume out of the system......because you are limiting your use of the volume knob based on a 0db setting. That was an entirely useless step.

Subjective evaluation of CLD is the least reliable. Any change is construed as positive change and evidence that the product works as advertised. I haven't looked at the specs in a while, but IIRC the the damping layer and constraining layer were both fairly thick. The difference however is going to be in things such as the compound used in the damping layer, we don't have anywhere near enough information to know what formulation was used and how effective it is as a constrained layer damper and other aspects of it's performance.

You still haven't given anything about your goals. What will you be crossing them with? Active or passive? Where do you want/need to cross them at and what slope? How are they going to be installed?

We would need to know specifically what speakers you were looking at and specifically what your intended use for them was, as well as your goals.

Stop, just stop.

Not many people are going to spend the kind of money Audio Development charges and then claim to be unhappy

Quite the side business Scott must have going on there. What happens in Vegas.......

Whether you are doing it actively or passively, digitally or analog, it's still electronic. I'm not sure what you mean by doing it "physically", though I'm guessing you meant doing it passively. "Physically" would be a whole 'nother can of worms. As M5 said, generally a notch filter is used to tame a cone breakup that occurs either within the passband or just past the crossover point if the break up is severe. I think the first question should be why you think you need a notch filter.

Also keep in mind that a manufacturer can "rate" a driver's Xmax pretty inaccurately.....only way to verify is with an accurate Klippel or similar analysis. No experience with them, but the link looks like it's from Audio Development which is a pretty pricey brand in general. I don't know why, some of the drivers look fairly generic to me, and I've never seen any measurements to confirm they justify the price.

Are you dead set on that installation plan of the 10's on each side of the trunk?

A 1cuft ported enclosure is going to take up a lot more room than a 1cuft sealed enclosure. Due to size restrictions it sounds like a sealed 12" is the route you should go.

How much room do you have to work with for the enclosure? Any experiences with subwoofers in the past, likes/dislikes, etc?

What we have in stock is available on the SSA Store. You need to get the dang black hats back in stock !! navy blue could still be alright. def. in need of a new hat though Once you go black..... I like black hats. That's all I wear.

According to the T/S they lean a little more towards sealed enclosures but will "work" in either. Depends on your goals, budget and airspace.

What we have in stock is available on the SSA Store. You need to get the dang black hats back in stock !!

If you can fit larger subs in a proper enclosure, I don't see any advantage in dropping down to 8's.

As the others have said, in the space you have to work with you have significantly better options than one or two 8's in a bandpass. A pair of 12's or single 15" in a standard ported would be much better options in every regard. IMO decide on subs first, then purchase an amp. Leave your options open so you can purchase the amp based on the final load of the subwoofers you select.

What exactly are your goals? How much space do you have to work with?

If you put your subs in his vehicle, then the difference is easily attributable to nothing more than differences in vehicle acoustics. If you liked the way it performed in his vehicle better, then either design an enclosure that performs better in your vehicle or purchase the same vehicle he has to drive around in instead. Without more information about how your electrical system is actually performing, we can't tell you anything about whether or not your electrical is performing up to par.

IMO don't waste your money, unless you are actually competing in SPL. Difference between 2200w and 3500w is 2db before power compression, so you'll be lucky if the difference is even audible. Chances are very good it won't be. Buying a 2nd 2200 and strapping them or running one per sub would be a 3db difference before power compression, possible it would be audible depending on circumstances but is it worth $400 plus the cost of wiring, the time installing, etc for something that might be audible (it very well might not be if depending on power compression), and if it is audible isn't a significant audible difference? If you're trying to get louder, power is the least effective and efficient means of doing so.

If strapping is an issue, I'm sure gain matching will be more of an issue. Not very difficult to take a DMM and make the numbers match. If you know how to read numbers, it should be fairly easy to match gains. I could teach my 8 year old how to do it.

Destruction of city property.

You don't wire it to 1ohm per amp if you are strapping. You wire the subwoofer to a 2ohm load. You will want the dual 1ohm subwoofer and wire the coils in series. Instructions on strapping are in the owner's manual To save confusion of strapping, you could just as simply run one amp per coil and achieve exactly the same result.

Will open up your options a lot if you look for a 2-channel amp & bridge it, although it will limit future upgrades some. Many of them are also class D so efficiency will be pretty similar to any mono amp. PPI 600.2 comes to mind. Sonicelectronix has them for $160 shipped. JBL also has some good options in the GTO lineup. Believe they have a GTO7001(?) that does around 425w @ 4ohm but also 700w @ 2ohm for future upgrade possibilities.