Impious

You have to get lucky and catch it, but from time to time it does happen. A few years ago the stores had the Alpine PDX amps on close out for less than they went for unauthorized on ebay. For $100 shipped that's an excellent deal. JBL electronics are always quality. I might grab a couple just to keep around.

I haven't played with the modeling yet, but define "best" ? Every enclosure and tuning has a specific goal. The goals set as a priority to recommend the .5cuft enclosure are obviously different than those used by SSA to determine what they recommended as the optimal enclosure volume. Everything is a give and take in this hobby.....when you change things to improve one area, you give up something in another area. There is no "best" enclosure, there are only enclosures better suited to one particular goal or another. As for small signal versus large signal....that's not what Q was referring to. In WinISD the power is only used to approximate output under ideal circumstances (SPL goes up and down with power). What Q was referring to was the power level used to measure and calculate the Thiele Small Parameters of the driver. What power you plug into WinISD and what drive level is used to measure the T/S Parameters are not related in the slightest.

You math is correct, except you took the long way. 33 * .75 = 24.75 = 1/2 octave

ehh then i lose treble You must have a very interesting interpretation of what music is supposed to sound like. More is not better. And interestingly, by reducing the number of point sources you would probably lose some peak output but also gain output in the areas where destructive interference is occurring.

I understand the constraints facing Fi, but they have got to figure out a way to provide better customer service. There's way too many of these threads started where people fall between the communication cracks.

I know a lot of people who would disagree with that statement lol some people just like loud daily drivers. I could have qualified that statement a little better....but for someone like the OP with a single sub setup there's not really any point. If he were running a half dozen drivers then yes that's a different situation.

As the others have said, you need to spend some time troubleshooting.....check connections and check the subwoofer with a DMM.

Unless you are competing in SPL there's really not much point in going over the 1500w-2kw mark.

Mine doesn't bother me or objects, just my two other dogs. Is he fixed? Not yet....too young. He will be getting fixed though as soon as he's able

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Grrr.....this is one of the reasons I didn't want a male dog. I don't want him humping shit all of the time, especially me !

So we got a boy pitbull puppy about a week and a half ago. He was born in August, so he's maximum 2.5 months old. The fucking thing just humped my foot, which pisses me off to start with. But on top of that...WTF? I didn't realize they started doing that shit this young?

Stinkiness. Thank you, that's what I meant.

Eliminating the 5 tweeters and horn would be a good first step.

Don't worry about trying to measure excursion. It's not going to happen accurately without expensive equipment. Set the gain by ear and listen for stress and any stickiness from the coil.

8" driver in a 2-way is generally a bad idea unless you happen to find a tweeter that can handle a very low xover point, which would necessitate a large format tweeter, or you go with a wide-bander up top (I think that might have been discussed in this thread already?). The short story is that it would be better, especially if this is your first attempt going active, to stick with your original plan of a 2-way with a 6.5" - 7" mid.

First, your system needs entirely redesigned. That's not a good system layout at all. Second, how do you have them wired? I would agree with jay-cee that it's likely you are simply overdriving the internal amplifier in the headunit. Even then I wouldn't recommend an amp, first I would recommend you eliminate 60% of your speakers.

They aren't. The B&C's Xmax is rated as peak-to-peak, not one way linear. So the Seas' Xmax is actually twice that of the B&C. How do we know? Pretty easy, in this particular case, since both manufacturer's list the height of the magnetic gap and the length of the voice coil. The most simplistic definition of one-way linear Xmax is VC Overhang/2, we can use this information to compare the drivers "rated" Xmax. The B&C has a gap height of 6mm and a 12mm long coil; that only leaves 6mm of total coil overhang which when divided by 2 would be 3mm of one-way Xmax. The Seas on the other hand also has a 6mm gap height but has an 18mm long coil; 12mm of total overhang or 6mm of one-way Xmax. It's deceiving and if we didn't have that little tidbit of information about the coil overhand we wouldn't be the wiser. Aside from that, M5 hit every nail on the head. A 6.5" pro audio mid is not going to work well in a 2-way....midbass response will be non-existent.

It can show up in a frequency response graph, but cone breakup can also show up in the impedance curve. A "wiggle" in the impedance curve with a corresponding "wiggle" in the FR usually indicates a resonance mode. For the Seas ER18RNX that peak in the FR around 4.5khz is cone break up related....which is good as that's pretty high for a 7" driver. Qts without Fs doesn't tell us much with regards to frequency response. An Fs of 37hz is pretty low...which isn't bad, IMO better than a higher Fs with a Q that low being ran IB in a car door. Subjectively it's going to depend on your taste. You're not going to have the "bump" in midbass output like a higher Q/higher Fs driver would, but it's roll off will also be more shallow and extended.

First, turn off the bass boost. Second, where is the gain set and what HU do you have? Third, as was asked....what are you using to gauge clipping?

The fuse holder still wouldn't have had a meltdown. I know you don't want to believe it, but this was more than likely install related.

Generally in car audio it's more because of equipment limitations. But there could be specific situations where a shallower slope works better due to the frequency response characteristics of the installation/drivers/vehicle, phase response, etc. Generally speaking I would start with the steepest slope available and see if I could obtain the desired response. If not or there are problem areas around the crossover point, I work backwards from there.

Not many companies anymore offer "team pricing" to anybody. I believe there might be a few left, but generally to get any kind of special pricing you need to be either specifically on that manufacturer's team (which is a form of sponsorship), or sponsored specifically by that company. Team pricing is a form of sponsorship in most cases. Since I'm here, I'll try to direct the thread in a useful direction. You need to better define your goals....is this a daily driver, SPL only, or both? How much space do you have to work with? "Slam the lows and still put up decent numbers" is more about the box than the subwoofer.

If the problem was the wire, then the wire would have failed or fuse would have blown, not the fuse holder as in your circumstance.

U assume right smart guy lol I knew there would be a troll in the group gotta love forums I compete within my region I keep it in cali I have been to every single show down here I went to finals last year would have went again this year if Wayne Harris didn't think that Indianapolis was the "half way point" for every one in America but yes I do compete on the regular So the answer to my question was no. Competing regionally "on the regular" is not the question I asked, and isn't justification for a company to give you special treatment. I do believe the "troll" is the one who expects to get special treatment from a company with no real justification. Build a competition record including major wins at national shows and world finals, build respect from other competitors, build respect from companies....and then you can go to companies and ask them for support as you'll then have something you can give them in return.