Impious

There are several problems here. For example, we are discussing front stage speakers, not subwoofers. Distortion and other factors are much more difficult to hear in the subbass than in the midrange and treble, which is what this thread is about. Also, "build to manufacturer spec" doesn't mean anything. They would have needed to have been in identical alignments in order to begin approaching a meaningful comparison. In addition, subjective interpretations are not very reliable as there are several factors at play both with the test (test conditions, source material, etc) and differences in two people's subjective opinions of what sounds "better"....which makes your opinion completely irrelevant to what my opinion may be. Basically....no offense, but your "test" isn't relevant at all to the discussion at hand.

That doesn't look like a wall to me. It looks like a board with speakers mounted on it sitting on the back of the rear seats and leaning against the rear window. You do not want to do what is pictured there. Pretend you never saw that picture. And if that's another friend's setup, don't take any advice from them or follow in their footsteps. You don't have enough room to do a true "wall" in your truck in the sense it's typically used in car audio. Your plan for a "wall" of PA speakers behind you isn't very good either unless your idea of "sounding good" is simply loud and without any regard to actual reproduction of the music.

The return of the Funky Pup !!

With a passive component set (such as your Focal) the passive crossover provides the function of "directing" the frequencies to the appropriate speaker. When running active, you eliminate this passive crossover and run one speaker per channel. But you still need some way to "direct" the frequencies to the appropriate speaker, so you have to do this "actively" with a preamp level crossover that comes either before the amplifier or with the crossover built into the amplifier. Then there's bi-amping, which is running one speaker per channel but still using the passive crossover instead of an "active" crossover. To do this you need a bi-amp capable passive crossover, which not many of them are anymore. Active is the new internet boner. Most people doing it don't understand or aren't truly benefiting from it, but their e-friends told them it was better so they went for it. It's sort of like the audio version of weed.....everybody's doing it, so it must be cool and their friends peer pressure them into it, so they give it a try too.

Same way you find the area of a circle. A = Pi * r2 Radius is simply half the diameter, so to make life simple just replace "r" with Diameter/2 So for the 12" with a diameter of 23.92cm (his measurements are mm, but Sd is typically stated in cm2 so we'll convert it the measurement to cm). Pi * (23.92/2)2 = ~449cm2 That's with the 1/2 surround method Jacob used. I don't know if that's what he uses in his standard T/S parameters or if that was simply to make the measurement easier. There is also a 1/3 surround standard that some companies use...mentioning that to keep in mind that Sd isn't always directly comparable unless the same measurement method was used. Jacob probably knows better than myself, but I believe the industry is trending more towards the 1/2 surround method.

108 5.25" drivers.

They are all very transparent. When you have been on a forum for years and just recently start replying to threads you never have before, we know what is up. You mean like now having a product you're trying to sell ?

As Quentin already pointed out, that is an entirely false premise as well, from both a fidelity and price standpoint.

Completely depends on the crossover frequency and the dimensions of the tweeter/mounting apparatus compared to the wavelength of the frequencies the mid is playing. It is entirely possible for the tweeter to not be "visible" acoustically to the response of the mid.

False. Jud; You need to better describe your system layout and potential budget in order for us to provide any real assistance. Those speakers are marine grade....is this for a boat?

I've seen far more quality designed and built 6+ channel amplifiers than I have crap. You must not be looking in the right places.

They need to pull that site down ASAP and contact LFNTN. Their first impression doesn't look so good Not to mention the name makes me feel like I'm dealing with someone from the ghetto. Tac; do you have the tools and skills to build your own enclosure?

I sincerely dislike that website and it's owner for the simple fact he literally steals, direct copy-n-pastes, entire write-ups and information without any reference or credit to the source. In fact several of the pages have his copyright at the bottom, when he copy-n-pasted the information from somewhere else.

I dislike the black plate over the center section of the amp, I liked the smoked plexi as on the older GTO series. Otherwise, I didn't think it was cheap looking/feeling. The silver sections over the heatsink appeared to be aluminum whereas I thought they would be plastic. The crossover section offers bandpass on the rear outputs, although the crossover frequencies would only work for a true midbass and not a 2-way. However, neither of mine came with mounting screws or fuses, which it appears they should have.

Have you tried searching? This question comes up very often, and the answer is always the same.

Not a good plan, at all. You need to take a step back and slow down.

That's more than likely not the amp's fault.

No problems. It will work perfectly fine.

And yet ironically your very first post in this thread may have very well done that, since you don't even know the information that opinion was based. It would also help significantly to know the goals of the OP's system. If this is a daily driver and not for numbers than honestly any power measurements (even if properly conducted, which clamp tests aren't if that's what you are relying on) are going to be meaningless. Those two amps will be close enough in power to make no audible difference.

You made the statement.....why can't you give us the details?

Need more details. Goals? Budget? More details on mounting locations/installation. When you say "four 6.5's and two tweeters up on the pillar", is that four 6.5's total (one per door)? Both tweeters on the A-pillars? What do you have for processing?

We've had 3" wide surrounds since the '90s. Looks like you've essentially just made them taller. I don't know that I'd call that an innovative progression. There have been some other innovations during that time that allowed not only for suitable surround geometry to meet an excursion goal but also not eat into Sd at the same time (actually it increased Sd)....and that was a decade ago. I'd be interested in seeing some actual measurements of the linearity of that surround compared to some of the more standard implementations. Any issues with additional stress placed upon the cone?

If that is the test from 5-7 years back, there were several problems with the test methodology that would render the results of that test void. It didn't "prove" anything. There are only 5 things that can contribute to a "sonic character" of any amplifier, regardless of topology; Power, distortion, noise, frequency response and gain. For two amplifiers to sound different, there must be an audible (not just measurable, but audible) difference in one of these categories. Nothing else matters, literally. It is entirely possible to build an amplifier of any of the usual classes (A, A/B, D, etc) where the distortion is inaudibly low, the noise is inaudibly low and frequency response is inaudibly flat. That leaves differences in power and gain structure. It is also possible to build an amplifier of any of the usual classes where the distortion is audible, noise is audible, or the frequency response has audible deviations. What does this mean? The class of the amplifier doesn't mean anything. Two amps can sound indistinguishable, and two amps can sound different.....but it has nothing to do with the class of the amplifier and everything to do with the 5 items previously listed.

They generate a tracking number shortly after the order is processed, or during the order processing on their end. That doesn't mean the sub is being shipped out, they've just generated a tracking number. After it's built and shipped the tracking status will change. It will be several weeks.

It's all about contact surface area. The larger the contact area the better. From your description it sounds like you want to essentially be able to screw the set screw into the insert....is that correct?