Impious

Do you compete in SPL? If not I don't see the point in this upgrade. At that power level there isn't going to be a huge audible difference between 2200w and 3500w. You're looking at 2db before power compression which could be comfortably estimated to be at least 1db with 1750w per driver.

.How would you use a DMM to set crossovers? And one the subject of DMM gain setting, is it best to do it with or without the subs hooked up? I've heard conflicting opinions there. Pretty simple. Set the crossover on one amp where you want it. Use a test tone of some frequency above the crossover point and measure the voltage on amp 1, then move over to amp 2 and adjust the crossover until you measure the same voltage with that test tone. And as was pointed out measure with subs unhooked.

Better define your goals. What is it you don't like about their performance in your current enclosure? What are you looking for performance wise? What is your musical selection?

Absolutely nothing wrong with it. Just use a DMM to match the gains and crossovers on the amps

It distorts at all levels. The only difference is the level of the distortion. Where that distortion becomes audible is going to depend on several factors including source material and settings within the headunit itself. Never tested that deck to know where/if it reaches unacceptable levels of distortion.

That entirely depends on the power output. You can't hear that. If you think you can, you are f-ennn nuts. All traditional speakers are pistons...how do you think they make sound? Yup. Version of the W7 is in JL's HT Gear. Hybrid Audio has HT OEM's using their speakers. Acoustic Elegance started in the car audio realm and has speakers used in studio's and home audio. Other brands (JBL/etc) share technology across all of their platforms. This is where I stopped reading. I couldn't make it through the majority of the rest of the post. False. If the power applied to the sub was the same ("watt for watt"), the output would be identical. False.

It's called Techflex and as was pointed out, you have to buy it separately.

Do not connect the grounds of the two batteries together if they are that far apart. Ground the D3100 in the rear to a much closer point. Depends entirely on the resistance of the wire compared to the resistance of the vehicle. Depending on the vehicle and/or grounding location it's possible for the wire to have less resistance, and hence would be a better choice.

Are these cars crap or sporty and fun? BMW 540i Wagon

I've been thinking a lot lately about adding go-fast parts to the Roadmaster. But my mileage is bad enough as it is.....really can't afford to kill the mpg.

http://www.breitbart...His-Second-Term Research. That comment was made in an interview on MTV on 10/26.....a week and a half before the election. People had more than enough time to consider that when voting, if they so chose. Your site is mis-citing information to make it look like it just happened this past Friday when it was two weeks ago. http://www.mtv.com/n...-equality.jhtml

It's actually more likely that a "sound quality" amplifier would have a non-flat response....many of them probably get the signature "sound characteristics" ascribed to them by having some intentional frequency response anomalies to give them a subjectively pleasing sound. For example, the RF Power T600-2 measured by CA&E had a boosted response from 20-200hz and 2khz - 15khz, IIRC it was nominally 2db but up to 4db on the low end with the crossover engaged. Was that an accident? Absolutely not. They did it intentionally. Think about it.....If you were to compare it to another amp on the sound board it would inherently sound louder.....and when you replaced your old amp with the new RF Power it would sound louder and "better" because they intentionally manipulated the frequency response. It's a forced, non-defeatable EQ built into the amplifier.

Probably because it doesn't take very much to build an amplifier with flat frequency response over the audible bandwidth. You basically have to intentionally build one that isn't.

Damping Factor Damping factor can be ignored in pretty much anything but true tube amps. If there were an issue with damping factor, it would show up in a frequency response measurement (as listed above, must be in one of those 5 categories to audibly affect the sound). If there's no issues in the FR, then there's no issues with DF. How many car audio class D amplifiers are non-filtered? Even then I don't know if it thermals a speaker quicker since the inductance of the speaker filters out the higher frequency components.

Power, gain, frequency response, distortion and noise are the ONLY things that impact how an amplifier "sounds". There must be not only an measurable but an audible difference in one of those items in order for one amplifier to sound different from another. That's it. Nothing else matters. Which means that if two amplifiers measure within inaudible tolerances in all 5 of those categories, they will sound identical. If two amplifiers "sound" different, it must be due to an audible difference in one of those 5 categories. What Op amps are used, what caps are used, what solder is used, cheap or expensive.....none of this matters unless it audibly impacts one of the previously listed measurements. It's a pretty trivial matter nowadays to build an amplifier with flat frequency response and inaudible levels of distortion and noise, so it's mainly going to come down to power and gain structure.

Can not be unseen.

Hell to the yeah. I do own a porn site, after all Now I have to ask what type. Gay Midget Beastiality Back when I was looking at trucks I did a google search for "granny tranny", because one of the trucks I was looking at had one. NOT a good idea.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/user/2609-rudeboy/ Shoot him a PM, or try emailing him again.

The 500/1 is a solid amp. If you can get it for a reasonable price (I honestly don't know what they go for used; look around on ebay/craigslist to compare) then it's a good choice. With as much room as you have there are a lot of options. Were you planning on going ported or sealed for the enclosure?

Moved to the classifieds.

All iterations of the XXX were XBL up until Scott turned them into the high excursion split coil design.

Was that cut on the CNC? Maybe it's just the picture, but the cut doesn't look very smooth/consistent.

That's an extremely inaccurate generalization.

One thing I haven't seen touched on is why that speaker blew. The reason it's important to investigate is that you can "upgrade" speakers all you want, but if the Type R blew because of a system setting issue (gain, crossover, EQ, etc) then the likelihood an "upgrade" will potentially suffer the same fate is very high.....which makes any money spent a potential waste.

Audibly......Probably not. Even if there was a slight audible difference it definitely wouldn't be enough to warrant the extra costs involved. What is your goal for the system?