Impious

I didn't understand a single thing you just typed Sean.

Design the enclosure for desired response, not the amount of power you are running.

Ported is inherently more underdamped than a sealed enclosure. That said the issue here is one more of available space as well.

If you were wanting to stay sealed then the BL is definitely the wrong sub to be looking at. Absolutely will not perform well sealed. Hence the reason it's important to provide more details when asking for assistance in choosing a subwoofer. We need measurements and/or maximum dimensions of available enclosure space so we know what enclosure volume you need to stay within and need to know your budget.

As street said selecting a subwoofer to match your goals is far more important than choosing a subwoofer to match your amp. Need more details as far as available space, music selection, performance goals, etc.

There is absolutely zero reason to expect the SA8 to be more punchy than a 12" driver. It could very well end up being less "punchy" than a 12' driver. And generally speaking a properly utilized and well designed 12" driver is going to be significantly louder than an SA8 or any other 8" driver.

I have DSL but I'm sort of over having a home phone. So I check out the local cable company to see how much cable internet costs now, and I see they have a monthly data allowance? Fuck that, they can shove it up their ass. What other options are out there?

From everything I've read they should be solid amps.

Same thing I got.

OP, do this.

9 out of 10 times it's a ground issue, either with the amplifier or the HU.

Because when you aren't you'll push WAY less air. Pair of Mael's? Yup maelstrom X. I couldn't remember the name for the life of me. Should be just about 15 or 16 cubes for each 18". I think the box was tuned was to about 13 hz. Exodus Maelstroms or the old Adire versions? If those are the Exodus.....Since you fucked up the boxes, I think you should sell me the drivers instead But seriously, you ever want to sell them, let me know.

Riddle me this, Batman. How can you apply X watts to each individual coil and achieve a different result? Forget about series/parallel wiring for a moment, and forget about that Youtube video. If you have dual 1ohm coils and apply 500w to each coil, how is there going to be any difference in voltage/current per coil?

Passive crossovers don't highpass the mid, he would still need to actively highpass them. In this case, he would need to use the crossover in the amp to highpass the mids. Though he should research to find out what the crossover frequency is of that board.

You want them aimed straight forward, towards your shins. They should be basically parallel to the floor. You also want them mounted as far to the outside of the vehicle as you can get. Additionally, the mouth of the horns should be parallel to the back wall, meaning don't aim them towards the driver or passenger. You want to be off-axis to them, that's how they were designed to be mounted. The narrowing part of the horn should be towards the center of the vehicle with the "flat" side of the horn against the outside wall.

Alright, I watched part of the video. Here is the problem.....his math only works if you change the impedance of the coils for each wiring method. He uses an example of the same final load, but in order for that to be possible you have to change the impedance of the coils. He went from .5ohm coils wired in series for a final 1ohm load, to 2ohm coils wired in parallel for a final 1ohm load. You aren't changing the impedance of your coils, you are changing how they are wired. You are watching that video and applying it to all cases of series/parallel wiring, such as your case of wiring the subs together and strapping or wiring each sub to it's own amp. That's not how it works. That video has zero relevance to your situation where you are simply changing the wiring of your subwoofer. I point this out because you kept talking about his math making sense. Helping to clarify to not just you but anyone else who stumbles upon this thread.

As I have said twice now, the amount amperage and voltage being outputted from the amplifiers will not be changed just how the coils distribute everything is supposedly changed. We will see if anything happens with this, if so good. If not oh well, maybe at least they will stay cooler while I play. Read through my very first post in this thread. It covers this, and the detailed but basic math. No matter how you wire it, each coil will see exactly the same voltage and current, and hence nothing will change. It isn't distributed different if the net result is the same voltage and current at each coil. If the voltage and current is distributed differently to each coil, then by default power is not the same. This is standard Ohms Law. If your test shows anything different than Ohms Law dictates, then there is a problem with your test. I fail to see how there is going to be any difference. Two amps strapped at 1ohm is exactly the same as each individual amp at .5ohm since each amp effectively "sees" half of the load when strapped. And due to Ohms Law, the fact the coil impedance is not changing and the fact that wiring in series/parallel doesn't change anything in regards to the voltage/current and hence power each coil will receive and as a result their resultant cooling.....you are going to be right back to where you started. As Sean said....if your test proves conclusively otherwise find yourself a physicist, write a scientific paper and submit it to various journals as you are a shoe in for a Nobel Prize.

They are good horns. The mini's don't drop as low as the full bodies but being smaller & easier to fit is the trade off there. They should still be good down to ~1200hz with a steep slope. They'll need some EQ but I believe your HU should be able to handle it, but I'm not as familiar with that unit as M5 is.

Bah, nevermind. I fucked up the math in this post and not fixing it again. Just believe my earlier post

And after all of that, I don't think I read the thread correctly I skimmed and thought you were talking about series-parallel or parallel-series wiring, re-read and realized you had talked about running the subs on two different amps. And now I don't have time to go back and fix my math but you can extrapolate out to your situation. But the moral of the story stays the same. If each driver is receiving 500w, the voltage and current seen by each coil will be the same regardless of whether the coils are wired in series or parallel, and hence heat dissipation by each coil will be the same.

I didn't click your link to the youtube video, but let's just work out the math. Let's say you have a 1kw amplifier at .5ohm (no idea what the power output of your amp is, and for this purpose doesn't really matter). So sqrt(1000*.5) = 22.36V, and 1000w/22.36V = 44.72A. So your amplifier is outputting 22.36V and 44.72A First, series-parallel wiring where the individual subs are in wired in series then the subs are paralleled together. Since in parallel wiring the voltage is the same and current is split, each sub would receive: Voltage = 22.36V Current = 44.72/2 = 22.36A Power = 22.36 * 22.36 = 500w Now, since the coils are in series, voltage is divided and current is the same. So each individual coil would receive: Voltage = 22.36/2 = 11.18V Current = 22.36A Power = 11.18V * 22.36A = 250w Now, let's look at parallel-series where each individual sub is wiring in parallel then the subs are wired in series together. In this case, since the drivers are in series voltage is divided and current stays the same. So each individual sub would receive: Voltage = 22.36/2 = 11.18V Current = 44.72A Power = 11.18V * 44.72A = 500w Each sub's coils are wired in parallel, so voltage is the same on each coil and current is divided, so the voltage and current for each coil is: Voltage = 11.18V Current = 44.72/2 = 22.36A Power = 11.18V * 22.36A = 250w As you can see, it doesn't matter whether you wire the subs in series-parallel or parallel-series, in the end each individual coil ends up receiving exactly the same voltage and current. This is basic Ohms Law, for a given load and given power there is one and only one way for the voltage and current to be delivered to the load. Impossible to change without changing the actual resistance of the load itself, which series-parallel and parallel-series does not do. In either case, each coil is going to end up with 11.18V and 22.36A The difference, however, is that when wiring the subs in series it's possible for the subs to modulate the motion of the other sub, which is not a good thing. I've never seen any actual measurements of this effect, but it's a theoretical possibility that is easily avoided simply by wiring the subs together in parallel instead of series. If there's an easy route to avoid a potential problem like this, why not take the precautionary route?

Until the clown got on it......

There are even a couple sets for sale on DIYMA right now: ID Mini-horns & BMS Mids

Those compression drivers are designed to be used with a horn. It says right on the white paper that the measurements are taken with two units mounted to a TDWL4....which are about 10" tall by 8" wide, and the whole unit would be 14-15" deep. Not very feasible in a vehicle. You are right though, there are much better options than supertweeters. I've listed one of the better options: HLCD Car audio style work best in a car as that's where they are designed to be used and have our environmental constraints factored into their design Keep in mind most of our (well, mine and M5's atleast) are based less on worrying about sound stage as a goal and more about attempting to follow basic tenants of good acoustics while still helping you achieve your goal. Just because sound stage isn't a goal doesn't mean the basic principle's of acoustics should be ignored. Overall results will be much better if you keep the basics in mind.

Fi can't keep up with orders and C/S as it is, can't imagine they'd then take the Fi brand to dealers as well. But as someone else said, they already are in dealers via the Ascendant Audio brand. Fi is their online direct-to-consumer line and AA is their dealer based line. Can't foresee them changing that any time soon unless they dropped the AA brand all together.