Impious

Also, be very careful with what something looks like from Alibaba or overseas markets in general. Just because something "looks" the same, doesn't necessary mean it is the same. There is a lot of IP theft and counterfeit products coming from China and overseas markets, and they will make many products that "look" similar to something else but perform nothing alike because they use much cheaper parts, cheaper glues, etc. That mainstream product might use similar looking but much better parts and/or design that in the end performs much better than the generic/counterfeit you can get off Alibaba. There was a guy on DIYMA who was looking into importing tweeters because they "looked" like some other tweeters and thought they were similar but for a much better price. If they were good enough he was going to wholesale them back to the community for a good price. When Erin measured them, they were absolutely terrible to the point of basically being unusable for anyone with any remote understanding of or desire for good reproduction. Point being....looks aren't everything. That's not to say you can't find an exact product overseas, and as pointed out the mark up on anything is outrageous. But just seeing something similar online doesn't mean it is necessarily the same product. Hell, the original and beloved JL W6 used all off the shelf parts. The brand SPL released literally a direct copy of the original W6 several years ago for less than half the price that the original W6 costs, but they used lower quality parts and as a result some things were different. The copy bottomed out a lot easier, generally didn't handle power as well and IIRC the glue didn't hold up as well.

I would agree with the previous posters.....try a standard ported enclosure.

That's not what happens in a pre-order. In a pre-order a company takes payment, gives an ETA (subject to slight change), and then builds and delivers the product. Not taking payment, giving an ETA, then saying you may get a product at some point in the future, but we can't say when and it won't be what you ordered because costs went up. FYI, Pre-orders are basically a companies way of raising funds because they don't have the capital on hand to either fully pay for the order , to buy the materials, or sometimes because they need the money now to do other things (pay bills, etc). You are "loaning" them your money with a promise around the ETA you'll receiving a product, and the "interest" they pay for this loan is the discounted price. More times than not it's their way of saying they need your money now because they don't have enough of their own, and in exchange for that they'll give you a discount on the product. It sounds to me like they can't refund you because they already spent your money and don't have enough on hand to refund you. Otherwise I don't see what the issue could possibly be that they can't give you your money back when they change the terms of the order so dramatically. Unfortunately this is one of the risks....the company taking your money now, and failing to deliver a product or the product you were promised. Unfortunately you paid cash.....your only option would be to sue them.

Really a difference of +/- 25% in a sealed enclosure isn't that substantial. The difference in response isn't going to be audible and the difference in peak excursion is only going to be a couple mm in most instances. Do you have a SSF ? That might help as well in this instance. Using an SSF and resetting the gain would allow you to increase output above the SSF setting but still allow you to limit excursion at lower frequencies, which is where the problems with overdriving the sub are likely occurring.

My laptop was asleep, I wake it up and it shows the log in page for a second then flips to the first startup screen like it rebooted, which shouldnt have happened. The status bar at the bottom of the screen gets about 75% across then freezes. I shut it down manually and now it will turn on and the cd drive will make its normal start up noise but nothing happens past that....no start up screen, just black. Seems like I had a similar problem years ago on my desktop and the problem was dead RAM. If i put my ear to the HDD it sounds like its running. Sound like a ram problem? Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this POS?

I assume your enclosure size is fixed due to space restrictions or an unwillingness to build a new enclosure? If that is the case, then it's a fairly simple matter to estimate performance in any enclosure modeling program that shows excursion for a given power level in the specific enclosure size you intend to use. That will tell you if the subwoofer is going to be overdriven. If not, then the easiest solution is to design a new enclosure.

While I agree there are some things purchasers in preorders have to deal with, such as the ETA being pushed back some due to customs or raw material outages, I think being given an initial ETA and then being told that there is an indefinite time frame for delivery is way outside of acceptable. We only have 1 side of the story right now, so it's tough to say.....but if they are waiting "indefinitely" for the price of Neo to drop back down to where they are happy with the profit margin then that is complete and total bullshit. They ran the preorder knowing the price of raw materials may change, they are liable to honor that preorder with a reasonable time of delivery regardless of whether or not they lose their ass on the deal due to the cost of materials rising. According to the OP it's not that they don't have access to Neo due to a lack of materials....they simply don't want to pay for it because it's too expensive and they'll either not make enough money or lose money. That's not acceptable. Build the subs you agreed and were paid to build. If that means you lose money because you made a bad business decision, then tough shit. Build the fucking subs.

Sounds like you were simply overdriving the sub. Could have been improper gain adjustment or something else set incorrectly (bass boost, etc) You *could* change the subwoofer to something that would mechanically handle the power better in that specific enclosure, but if you are otherwise happy with the subwoofer then I don't see the point. Set everything to a level where the subwoofer isn't being overdriven and be happy.

I'll be damned Stefan, that worked. Back up and running. So, what exactly does that mean?

Also if it is a mobo failure suggestions on where to find a replacement board for a good price would be appreciated. Its an acer aspire 5515

RAM test was a fail. Tried both sticks in both locations, still not booting....no screens at all. I also tried with no RAM installed and its behavior didnt change at all. It didnt beep with no RAM...just powers on, fan starts, cd rom spins briefly then dead silence and black screen....same as its done every other time. Ryan, overheating might have been a problem, this thing has ran hot for more than a year. Battery life was non-existant as well. Not sure if its connected to this failure. One of the USB ports had died also...motherboard might have finally given up? What say you Shizz?

An oscope or DD1 are never necessary in any daily driving based system. If you dont understand why, then you dont understand the problems involved with using them in such a capacity. Im on a tablet right now so not writing a novel explaining why they are useless in these situations but feel free to search as myself, M5 and 95Honda have discussed it at length several times in the past.

You don't need an o-scope or a DD1 to set your gains. Your body comes pre-equipped for such a task. Just use various music you are familiar with and set the gain by ear. Use your head and listen for obvious signs of stress from the sub. LPF is high for my tastes but if you need it to fill in the midbass it might work for you. Simply adjust to where ever sounds best. There's no right or wrong. Ported would give you more output, generally in a sedan the subs/port face the same direction. Mainly depends on if you have or are willing to sacrifice the necessary space as a ported enclosure will be significantly larger.

Which was my point....if you needed to use a line driver due to low V output from the tab, they usually have volume knobs built in so that would solve one of your problems.

When you say a pair.....do you mean a single set of components, or two sets of components? If it's the former then there's not much of a choice, only one way to wire them. If it's the later then a more detailed question would be helpful.

Reset your gain by ear without using the DD1. Where is your lowpass filter for the subwoofer set? As rick said, going ported would definitely give you the output you are looking for if you're willing to give up the trunk space

The tablet going to have enough voltage to get a reasonable volume out of the MiniDSP's?

It's on the old analog signal. It would costs way to much to get it converted to digital. I will either leave it for nostalgia or remove it and the holder. Figure out a way to integrate a bluetooth earpiece or something into the speaker/mic location of the phone, then you can use it to talk on when you're using your cellphone in the car. Imagine the looks you would get when you pull up to a stop light talking on that thing......

Bass boost is nothing but a fixed band of equalization. Meaning there is an equal opportunity to damage your subwoofer by boosting the equalization in your headunit as there is with bass boost. If "you want more", boosting the EQ is the wrong way to do it. Give us more details of your system (vehicle, subwoofer, amplifier, enclosure size/tuning, sub enclosure location & alignment, etc) as well as the method used to set the gain and any other settings you may have. There may be other, and better, things you can do with the current system to get what you are after without resorting to boosting the equalizer. Also, what exactly are you looking for? Simply more output overall? Better low frequency extension?

How many channels is your surround? What is your budget? I believe the point M5 was getting at was using pro audio amps from a power/cost perspective, which was going to be my suggestion as well, but they generally have built in fans that can be noisy. But now I'm confused on why you were looking at a 2-channel amp when you are setting up surround sound. Were you still only planning to power the main L/R speakers with the amplifier?

Honestly the outside of the car thing is more for providing a wider image.....since that's not a primary concern, simply do the best you can. Without being under the dash with you it's hard to give too much advice. As long as it's not in the middle of the dash width-wise I think you'll be fine. As for the height....not sure how much of a height difference we are talking or what's holding it up. But if it's a few inches again for your purposes I think the difference is going to be trivial. IMO install them the best you can with what you are willing to do and give it a listen. IMO atleast a set of HLCD installed not perfect but to the best of your abilities are still going to be better than supertweeters. Installing them properly sometimes takes a little bit of creativity. Do you have or can you get pictures? Might help a little bit.

Adcom is a good brand, but do you really need a $1300 amplifier? What are you looking to do...what features do you need the amp to have?

We sit on the same bench. Your "asshole" just makes me curious. Hmmmmm.......

Power can be adjusted. Design for response.

Generally in specific situations and increasing the risk of damaging the amplifier, and with voiding the warranty. Don't use that as a basis of your decision.