Impious

Glad to see you've paid close attention to my posts Decide on a mid first, then find a tweeter to mate up to it. Mid is going to determine how low you need the tweeter to play, and IMO it's better to find a tweeter to mate with a mid than the other way around as I feel there are fewer compromises this route. Where are the mids going to be mounted? Depth restrictions? Goals for the front stage?

While they did make a newer sub with the flat piston cone, that is definitely the OG flat piston Pro10.

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/ele/3611676102.html Tempted to grab these for nothing other than nostalgia sake.

Curious of the source? If it was a "clamp test" then the results are meaningless.

You do realize those tweeters are 4" in diameter? Just making sure as they aren't easy for everyone to fit. There are some other small format options (i.e. similar to standard car tweeters) if those would be more viable for you

That Fountek is a ribbon tweeter, not a horn. You appear to be using those two terms interchangeably.....they are completely unrelated. A ribbon isn't a horn and a horn isn't a ribbon. I'm presuming it was the sensitivity that drew your eye to the Fountek....but it's not a horn, it's a ribbon tweeter. What exactly are your goals? Because I'm certain that a ribbon tweeter is not what you are going to end up wanting or the best way to achieve your goal. True ribbon tweeters are extremely fragile, I'm not even sure one would survive very long in a car. The reason for the passive crossover/cap recommendation is because a ribbon's impedance drops very low at low frequencies and at DC, so it's imperative that the cap is in-line with the ribbon tweeter to prevent a near dead short from being presented to the amplifier. While most amplifiers have protection circuits built in to protect them, the ribbon tweeter will turn effectively into a fuse and go up in smoke. Simple little things like turn on/off pop would smoke a ribbon tweeter every time. So yes it's possible to run them active with an appropriate cap in-line to keep them protected. But like I said before, just based on your post I can tell you that you are not looking for a ribbon tweeter, and I don't think a true ribbon tweeter like that Fountek would survive in a car. State your goals and budget and we can help you chose much better alternatives.

Hmm well I was pointing out popular brands and products to look at cause that's what he asked for but okkkk... Being a popular choice and being a good choice are two completely different things. Need model #, Seas has a lot of fabric dome tweeters in the Prestige line. And you are not going to be able to do a 2-way with an 8" or 10", at least not well. Plan on using a 7" driver.

First we need a budget. Then you need to figure out what you want to go with as far as processing is concerned. Definitely would not recommend a 3-way. Crawl before you walk. A 3-way is significantly more complicated than a 2-way, and with a decent processor a 2-way will more than keep you busy dialing in. Once you have mastered the art of the 2-way active setup, think about proceeding on to 3-way. A well tuned and well setup 2-way will kick the shit out of a poorly setup and poorly tuned 3-way. And if this is your first foray into active setups, the 3-way will end up being poorly tuned and poorly setup. More isn't always better. And no offense to Sacred, but none of his suggestions were very good.....so don't take that advice.

Boobies top

Not that amazing of a face and her stomach/waistline is weird looking. Got some boobies on her though.

With coils in series for 3ohm you will be around 1100w from the amplifier, which is fine for the W7. Do not worry or concern yourself with so-called "impedance rise", pretend the previous poster didn't mention it.

Please hurry

Regarding the "Pro Audio" speakers he released, I had to ask this question 2x and he never even responded, but several weeks after my initial inquiry he did finally change the T/S specs for them. You can see by the dates below that on 10/24 he posted specs to the website and as of 11/15 he still hadn't changed them.... And those T/S parameters make absolutely no sense at all. The variances are large enough to not even be close to considered errors due to averaging over a production run. They're just wrong. The PAX-6.5, for example. Re of 4ohms? I've never seen a speaker with an Re of 4ohms....nominal impedance, yes. But not Re. I'm going to presume it's 4ohm nominal and it's Re is somewhere in the 3.X range? Second, a Qes of 1.758 and a Qts of .412 ? Even with nothing but a rudimentary understanding of T/S we can tell those numbers don't match up. Qes is the main determinant of Qts....those two numbers should be much closer. Qts should be more in the vicinity of 1.4 You list No as .19% and SPL 89.8db. Based on the listed Fs, Qes and Vas the No calculates out to be 1.28% and SPL 93db. A No of .19% would equate to a sensitivity of 84.8db, not 89.8db. So, in short, none of those numbers match up. Your units for compliance are wrong, or your decimal is in the wrong spot. I'm assuming it's really .090742 mm/N Based on the listed Vas and Cms, the Sd would be around 446cm^2, which is not much smaller than a 12" driver and obviously not correct. Based on Mms and Cms, Fs should be 126hz, not 97hz. That's not an all encompassing list, but a brief summary. In short.....those parameters are physically impossible and make no sense together whatsoever. After he corrected the specs (several weeks after my initial inquiry), I don't know if they are accurate but atleast they are reasonably mathematically consistent. Here are my problems with the drivers: Honest opinion? They are turds. I don't see a single circumstance in which there isn't much better options available. Here's the problem, they wanted something they could call "pro audio" and looked "pro audio" by appearance but didn't want the lack of midbass problem pro audio drivers suffer in most car audio style installations (unfortunately they failed miserably on both counts). So they used pro audio style soft parts with a low mass and in this case looks like slightly less compliant suspension so they have the "pro audio" look and also the high Fs (actually a higher Fs than a lot of true pro audio drivers). But they then tried to compensate for the lack of midbass output in most pro audio drivers by raising the Q....but they went too far and ended up with an extremely weak and underdamped motor. The downside to this is that the weak motor killed the efficiency and gave the driver way too high of a Q. The result is a driver with a really high Fs, average sensitivity and almost unusably high Qts. So it's going to have a giant peak early in the midbass followed by a steep roll off. And because the driver is highly resonant you are not going to be able to get tight, articulate midbass out of the driver.....it's going to be exaggerated and muddy, and it's still not going to have the low frequency extension of a normal driver. This driver is basically off the shelf a driver stuffed in WAY TOO SMALL of an enclosure; think about what happens to a subwoofer when you shove it in way too small of a sealed enclosure, and that is equivalently what this thing is even when it's IB in your door. DO NOT use them in an enclosure or sealed kickpanels....simply not going to work. If you were after a true pro audio driver, this isn't it. The weak motor killed the efficiency, it's really not much more efficient than a standard driver. So if you want pro audio efficiency, you will need to stick with the traditional pro audio offerings and this driver doesn't fit in that category. On the other hand, if you weren't after a pro audio driver I still don't see a use for this driver as a "normal" driver is going to have nearly the same efficiency and without such ridiculous parameters....they'll have a lower Fs, much lower Q and as a result won't have the over-exaggerated midbass response and huge peak with an early roll off of this driver. So if you weren't after a pro driver, there are still much better options than these. As such, I don't see any real use for these drivers as no matter which way you want to go, there are much better options available. Driver design is all about trade-offs and which set of trade-offs fit a particular goal. Unfortunately the designers of this driver chose absolutely ridiculous trade-offs and essentially made a driver that doesn't fit well in any category and is easily bested by a large number of drivers no matter the performance goals of the user. I know certain people aren't going to believe this: But there is truly no brand-bias in my comments here. This is strictly looking at the T/S parameters, I'd say exactly the same thing no matter what name was on the dust cap. He also had to go back and change the specs he released on the bullet tweeters after he released them and we questioned him on them, though he didn't actually answer any of our questions he just went back and changed some of the specs.

You must not have tried very hard. Everything needed to accurately model the subwoofer is listed. And just as importantly their parameters for various products have been independently verified to be accurate. Free Air Resonance (Fs) 27.97 Hz Electrical “Q” (Qes) 0.534 Mechanical “Q” (Qms) 7.678 Total Speaker “Q” (Qts) 0.5 Equivalent Compliance (Vas) 2.806 cu ft / 79.47 L One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax)* 0.510 in / 13.0 mm Reference Efficiency (no) 0.31% Efficiency (1 W / 1 m)** 87.15 dB SPL Effective Piston Area (Sd) 80.600 sq in / 0.0520 sq m DC Resistance (Re) 1.658 Ω Wait....I thought you didn't need modeling? I thought you didn't need T/S parameters? I thought you tried a sub and relied on your subjective interpretation? Buy the sub, try it in every possible enclosure then use your subjective experience there to determine whether or not it works for you.

It may have simply been trying to tell you to disconnect the negative cable from the battery so you don't accidentally short something out.

LPF set to taste by ear. Number doesn't matter, just where ever sounds best. SSF set approximately a half-octave below tuning, which would be around 26hz. Gain set by ear.

Why do they have to be brand name? Honestly if he's burning through them that quickly get him kicks from Walmart for $5-$10. They last just as long and are 1/4 the cost. Not sure how often you head over towards Angola but there's that huge outlet mall right off of the toll road if you really want the more brand name stuff. http://www.horizongroup.com/our-centers/fremont

You can not just toss any random passive crossover in with your speakers and expect good results. If you knew the crossover frequency and slope of the RF crossovers you might be able to find or build a replacement of equivalent values. But just blindly using Sundown crossovers simply because everything else in your truck is Sundown is a terrible idea.

sqrt(125*4) = 22.36V sqrt(500*4) = 44.72 44.72/2 = 22.36V per channel I.E. Using the DMM to level match each channel to 22.36V is exactly the same as setting the gain to 44.72V for the bridged pair of channels. So all you need to do is set the gain for each individual channel to 22.36V and you will have also set the gains for 500w bridged @ 4ohm. Normally I wouldn't recommend the DMM method for setting a gain and would instead suggest setting it by ear....but since you have to level match the channels, this is one instance where the DMM will come in handy. What level test tone will you be using? Don't use 0db or you'll be terribly upset with the lack of output with music. I'd suggest using a -6db test tone. The DMM method is far from perfect for setting a gain and doesn't guaranty your gain is set properly. After you listen to it I would still suggest you fine tune the gain setting my ear....just go back and level match the independent gain controls with the DMM to the same voltage.

You are going to have to be more specific. Baffles can be in there for a multitude of reasons.

Personally I would ditch the idea of passive and the rear midbass drivers. The rear 6x9's will hurt more than help IMO and the added flexibility of active will give you more flexibility in choosing drivers and he'll already be set up in a manor that he can improve the system/speakers as money or taste allows. While I like the idea you are going for with the multiple 6" driver approach, I don't think it's the best option. While they are good speakers for what they are, the Aura's have small coils with no real cooling....I wouldn't be surprised if a decently well designed 8"-10" pro audio driver ended up have less compression, higher true power handling and higher efficiency. What is your budget? If you run active what processor do you plan to use? A note on the B&C drivers....the rated Xmax is peak-to-peak, not one-way. So divide their Xmax numbers in half.

If by "extremely meticulous" you mean we expect T/S parameters (which describe the behavior of the loudspeaker) to be reasonably accurate so that we can actually use them for their intended purpose, which is to accurately predict the behavior of the loudspeaker and just as importantly predict the behavior of the loudspeaker in a given enclosure......then yes, I guess we are "extremely meticulous". When you release T/S parameters that not only lack mathematical consistency but are also completely illogical then yes, that's sort of a big deal considering the purpose of the T/S parameters and the simplicity involved in accurately measuring them with today's technology. If you don't understand their use, the usefulness behind being able to accurately model a loudspeaker and understand it's behavior through the use of T/S parameters......then you are missing out on a pretty important part of the subject.

Budget and year models? I am a huge fan of Buicks for reliability, economy, size, power, and value. The Park Avenue Ultras are awesome. Plenty of power, reliability, room, fuel economy, and cheap enough to acquire. If you like roadmasters, you will love Park Avenue Ultras (supercharged 3800s) You know I actually looked at a couple PA Ultras, but I wasn't willing to pay what they were asking for the mileage they had. I had a non-supercharged 3800 in my '97 Olds LSS and the gas mileage wasn't all that great, atleast not as good as I'm looking for considering I'm guaranteed atleast 80 miles per day commuting to work. Thing was pretty bulletproof though. I drove it while overheating on 2 separate occasions and didn't blow a gasket or crack a head, much to my dad's amazement No real price range, just tossing some feelers out there to see if anything peaks my interest. Definitely not over $5k preferably $3k or less....the cheaper the better. The cost of the vehicle needs to be able to be offset by my savings in fuel economy in rather short order to make it worth it.

While I love the room and comfort of the Roadmaster......I spend a lot of fucking money on gas each week Are there any cheap'ish fuel efficiency vehicles that aren't small and slow pieces of shit? I don't want a Neon, Civic, etc. But I would like to get something that doesn't get 15mpg and that isn't a chick car.

Call Kinetik's tech support # during the day and talk to Dave. I haven't talked to him in a few months but I've known him for close to 10 years now and he'll talk to you honestly and objectively/empirically, no bullshit or sales pitches.....that's just type of guy he is. He can tell you what people have done wrong to the batteries people have had issues with and how to avoid those same issues. I also know he's done a lot of testing of various batteries though I'm not sure how much of that info he's willing to discuss while on the clock with Kinetik since he's not going to intentionally bash a competitor, but if you ask him some performance related questions he might be willing to share with you some of his findings.