Impious

Adjust port area until the port velocity drops to an acceptable level.

3x Rockford P1000X4D 1x Rockford P1000X1D JBL MS8 As Ryan said, '94 Roadmaster. And thanks everyone

It's in WinISD under Air Velocity. Don't know what version you have, but in the version I use it would be Rear Port - Air Velocity And yes, port velocity is relevant for any port size or shape

Thanks. She's great to have around, especially now that she's a Daddy's girl which drives my wife crazy....LOL. Only have her on the weekends, but she comes from a rough background so I like to think we're doing some good in helping raise her. We're white, she's obviously not. So it's pretty humorous at times when we're out in public, people always think she's lost.

Passenger's side: Two large panels are for amps, the small panel is for my distro block Driver's side: Two of the panels are for amps, 3rd is for my processor And my baby. She wanted to be in the pictures There is a third picture where she was completely unprompted, but ended up flashing the shocker while just doing goofy stuff with her hands....LOL Turned out fuzzy though.

He might honestly think it's Neo I suppose. Not as bad as a local here trying to sell his two Obsidian 15's for $600 when they cost $140 each new, while also claiming they are 3kw RMS.

Welcome to the world of internet forum boners. This is the way it's always been, and the way it will always be.

The T/S of a subwoofer (or any driver) changes as the suspension loosens (i.e. becomes "broke in"). But since the relevant parameters (Cms, Fs, Q, etc) change proportionally, the response is changed slightly but typically by an inaudible amount. So the actual change in performance is virtually zero. It's not a myth that the suspension loosens, changing the T/S parameters. It is a myth that some arbitrary "break-in period" needs to be ascribed where the driver is used at an arbitrarily lower power level for an arbitrary period of time. It's also a myth this change is dramatic since, as I pointed out above, the change in response is often not audible. I've obviously not seen measurements of every driver on the market, but I've yet to see measurements of a driver that results in an audible change in response. If somebody has any, I'd be interested in seeing them.

Coil length isn't the only thing that matters. And as Nick said, a picture isn't going to do anything to help him even as far as coil length goes. He would need full measurements of the coil and the gap, and as he pointed out he would also need to know the geometry of the motor and suspension. Long story short, the easiest way for them to do it would be with the physical driver in hand, including soft parts. And chances are good, reverse engineering the driver probably isn't something they really want to get into anyways. It would be fairly time consuming on their end. If you really want something from Fi, recone the driver with PSI parts, sell it and use the $$ to buy a Fi driver.

And it says it was made specifically for the W6v2, so it will probably not fit your basket.

Looks can be deceiving. Different construction methods can make one wire look thicker than another even though they might have the same conductor area....which is all wire gauge is based on. But in addition to that yes, OFC doesn't need the same conductor area as CCA to transfer the same (or more) current since OFC has less resistance.

The problem is there is no "one" enclosure volume, tuning and port area that will work for a given driver. It all depends on goals, and since those goals will vary person to person and install to install then the appropriate enclosure will also vary person to person and install to install. Enclosure modeling software is a huge aid in designing an enclosure, but you still have to understand how to interpret the information and determine what is appropriate for a given situation.

Bass boost needs to be at 0. That alone could quite easily be the source of your problems. Long story short, the bass boost asks the amplifier to output more power, in your case more power than it actually can. This causes clipping which significantly increases the amount of average power over time it's outputting and the subwoofer is receiving. If that average power is more than the subwoofer can handle thermally or mechanically, then it blows. As you've found out There is a "proper" way to use bass boost, but I'm not going to explain it because there is absolutely zero need ever in car audio to use a bass boost. Just simply leave it at zero. I couldn't find anything quickly online that gave the preamp voltage of your HU. It looks like a lower end model, so I'm guessing it's fairly low (not that this is inherently "bad", but it does affect gain position to a degree). And given the small input sensitivity range with that setting (looks like it can also be adjusted for 2V - 8V, I'm assuming you had it in the 100mV - 2V range), it's possible that your gain was set correctly. That said when you install a different sub, you need to reset your gain and verify it's set to a level that isn't over-driving the amplifier or the subwoofer. This is one of the few times I'd suggest you read and follow the sticky in the amplifier section regarding how to set a gain with a DMM. Normally I'd suggest setting by ear based on driver stress.....but given your history it doesn't appear you can readily identify driver stress Without knowing the actual tuning frequency of your enclosure, it's hard to say for certain but just as a guesstimate I'd venture to say your subsonic filter (SSF) was set atleast to a safe level. Many prefab boxes are tuned pretty high, normally close to or a little higher than 40hz. So a 36hz SSF setting should be sufficient. If the enclosure is tuned lower than 36hz then you could possibly lower the SSF a bit. While we're on the topic, whatever sub you choose next, it would be wise to spend a little extra & have an enclosure custom built. If you can construct it yourself we can help you design it. But a prefab enclosure is going to restrict your ability to extract full performance out of your subwoofer. Can't give you advice on headunit settings without knowing what those features are and the available settings.

Looks like MC will have what I need. Sort of funny though. A gas strut is ~$12 with threaded rod ends. The eyelet fittings around around $2 each. If you want to buy the strut with the eyelet fittings installed (mind you it's still threaded rod with eyelet fittings, it just comes with them) then it's ~$38. WTF ? Why would someone pay an extra $22 just to have the eyelet fittings pre-installed on the strut ?

Well first of all the box that I use is Sound Ordnance BB12-150v, The Input sensitivity is 100mV-2V, The Subsonic Filter is around 36Hz and the bass boost has been close to +13DB. The first sub that I had failed due to mechanical. The second one which failed today I don't know what failed on it. I did check all connections, fuses and wires. Hooked up a sub to my amp and made sure it was my sub but other than that, I do not know what went wrong on the Kicker. Where did you have the gain set in that range? Bass boost should be at zero. You had it set to +13 ? Does your HU have any adjustements? What HU do you have? As Q said, you overpowered all of the drivers which is what lead to the failure. The problem that lead to that situation was likely improper system settings.

The problem here is quite obviously your misuse of the products. The problem isn't the amp blowing the subwoofers, the problem is you blowing the subwoofers. Properly used subwoofers don't just blow. You need to figure out what you are doing wrong and fix that before you replace the subwoofer, otherwise it will simply end up blown as well. My initial guess would be improper amplifier settings in conjunction with not understanding when a driver is stressed. But we need more details to figure out what exactly is going wrong. Give us more details of your previous setups, including enclosures used and system setting (amplifier gain/bass boost, any headunit settings, subsonic filter settings if any, etc). Otherwise it's pointless to look for a new sub, unless you just like throwing money at new subwoofers. If you knew how the drivers failed (thermal or mechanical) that would be helpful as well.

Oh, yeah. I want to cut the torsion bars out of the trunk. I want to replace them with gas struts, but I need them to have eyelets on both ends. Autozone didn't have anything like that. Any good sources?

I hope to have the amp rack done and wires in within that time frame Hardest part is going to be finding replacement interior panels to hack up. I'm hoping I can hit all of the local junkyards on Friday to see if any of them have any RM's.

WinISD is free. Most box calculators aren't enclosure modeling software that predicts response, they simply tell you the measurements of the panels for designing an enclosure. What you need is an enclosure modeling software, like WinISD. Enclosure design 101: For a given enclosure volume & tuning frequency.....As port area goes up, port length increases. As tuning frequency goes down, port length increases. Which is why port length is decreasing as you decrease port area. 10" round is excessive for a SA-12. And the SA-12 doesn't have 38mm Xmax. It's 19mm if I recall correctly, 38mm peak-to-peak...but Xmax is one-way, so it's 19mm When you are converting round to slot ports, all you need is to arrive at equivalent port area. What you need is to pick up a book on enclosure design. The topic is WAY too large for a single thread or post to cover all necessary aspects, and it doesn't sound like you have enough of a foundation to simply "fill in the holes" for you. Pick up the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance Dickason.

This is my 1st time putting a stereo in this car, so I have to do everything from scratch. Wires, speakers, amp rack, etc. I had my last car 10 years so when I changed something, I already had most of the foundation in place. With starting fresh and having to do EVERYTHING to it still, it will probably take me the better part of the summer.

Is this in the RM or did you find another vehicle? RoadmasterWhen is said install to be complete. Hopefully before winter hits.

Set the gain by ear. Ditch the cap.

I'd go with which ever offers the most power. I believe out of those options that is the Zed

Is this in the RM or did you find another vehicle? Roadmaster