Impious

I am Dance Mom of the month at my daughter's dance company. Quite the honor.

I've got a voice coil issue on a headphone siminar around here somewhere. If I can find it I'll scan and upload it. Thanks Again, not a head-Fi guy. I want the kind that covers the whole ear....whatever the hell that is called. Closed back. Doesn't need active noise cancellation, house is pretty quiet and wouldn't use them anywhere else

Wife works 3rd shift, and now with this IPad mini I've found it quite enjoyable to sit in the dark alone at night and listen to some music after the kids go to bed. Problem is I listen with my son's $10 headphones....which surprisingly don't sound quite as terrible as I expected for $10 headphones. Not stellar by any means, but tolerable for the most part. Anyways, has my considering picking up a set of decent headphones. But head-Fi ain't my thing, so I'm procrastinating because I'm dreading the research

No, it will not. You would need a crossover to high pass the tweeter and a way to band pass the mids. That unit does have a built in lowpass for the sub, but it's fixed at 60hz. What is your budget and what equipment do you have?

What are the T/S going to be ?

Same. I don't buy equipment locally anymore because they don't carry what I want, but for many install accessories I buy locally when available.

Pm me your address.

I have a small collection of expired IN plates, one of them is even a handicap plate Yours if you want them. Do you use these on your get-a-away cars ?

Clamp test wouldn't provide any useful information

Now that I better understand your question....the answer is just not that cut and dry. Qts is simply the product of Qes and Qms and describes their combined system damping. Qes and Qms are both responsible for the shape of the impedance peak, and both of them can be calculated from the graph. I suppose since Qes is the main determinant of Qts I would presume it has more of an impact on the curve than Qms.

Not a good idea. For starters, you can't just add speakers to a passive crossover. Passive crossovers are designed to operate with a specific load. If you change the load the crossover is connected to, you change the function of the passive crossover. The crossover frequency would change, and any "extra" mechanisms built into the passive wouldn't function properly.That's before we even discuss the acoustic aspect. It "can" be done to run dual 6.5s per side (active, for example, but not with a passive designed for a single speaker) but certain consideration in the installation and tuning needs to be given to the things such as potential cancellation, etc.

Yes and no. From the graph, with a little bit of algebra, Qes and Qms can be calculated. Once Qes and Qms are calculated one can calculate Qts using the formula (Qes * Qms)/(Qes + Qms)

What they said. Why did you purchase another set of tweeters, super tweeters no less ? Not really sure of the plan, but adding them to your existing install is not a good idea. Super tweeters have no place in a vehicle to start with. More details of your goals and budget and we can help you design a system that will meet your goals.

I didn't post that, pro rabbit did. And yes, you are completely misinterpreting the graph and your conclusions are not correct. It is an impedance and phase graph, not a frequency response graph. Unless you have a TON of experience it's hard to decipher the information you are looking for from it. The lower graph is the impedance curve. The large peak occurs at the resonant frequency (Fs) of the driver. The width, slope and height of that peak is determined by the driver's various Q (damping) factors. Figuring out the Fs is pretty easy, determining what the graph is telling you about the various Q factors of the driver takes a trained eye and some calculations. The Fs and Qts (total damping of the driver) determine the low frequency characteristics of the driver. Combine those with the driver's Vas (not able to be determined from the graph) and you can then model the low frequency characteristics of the driver in various sized sealed and ported enclosures. The rising impedance on the right side of the impedance graph is determined by the inductance (Le) of the driver. The lower the frequency the impedance begins to rise at and/or the steeper the slope of the rise, the higher the inductance is (comparatively). The inductance and subsequent increasing impedance inhibits the high frequency response of the driver. It can't respond fast enough to reproduce those frequencies. It really isn't just the inductance that creates this effect, it's a combination of the driver's inductance in relation to the driver's DC resistance (Re). Two drivers with the same Le but different Re's will behave differently. The top line on the graph is the impedance phase angle. The large impedance variations affects the phase angle of the driver, which is basically how in- or out of phase the voltage and current are. The deviation in the phase tells you that the voltage and current will not be in phase at those frequencies. Anyways....challenging yourself right now would be learning how to maximize the installation and tuning of a 2 way system. If you can't maximize a 2 way installation, then a 3 way will be a fail. Certainly you could simply hook everything up and it would "work", about as well as your current front stage "works"...which is to say it will play music but perform now where near how it should sound or anywhere near it's full potential. First, home and car audio are completely different environments. Second, those home audio speakers have (well, should have had) a good bit of engineering behind their design and are not just cobbled together as you are proposing. Using something just because you have it isn't how you go about designing a quality system, especially when the product was probably a poor purchase decision to start with. And you still haven't answered my questions.

Ditch your current front stage as soon as possible. Not a good combination at all. I hope you realize that, otherwise it makes the job of trying to help you understand areas of improvement much more difficult if you don't understand why the current arrangement isn't any good to start with. Why do you think you need a 3way (other than it being most men's fantasy) ? And what are you looking to improve ? What are your goals ? Unless you understand and have a need for the benefits of a 3 way front stage, I would recommend against it. Especially since you are still very much a novice, stick with simple. A poorly installed/tuned 3 way will be worse than a well executed 2 way. My opinion....sell the 10's and go with a quality 2 way set. Use the $ from the 10's to either purchase a higher quality set do speakers, or towards improving the install with sound deadening, etc. Why so you need a new 2 channel as well ? If it's not necessary again I would use that $ towards better speakers or improving the install.

About 15 years ago I was getting out of the sliding door of my mother in laws van and had put my right hand on the outside of the B pillar. Her younger sister was getting out of the front seat and shut the front door on my hand. All 4 fingers were in the door. Didn't hurt at all, my fingers fit in the door jam without smashing them. Problem is they were all walking towards the store and I couldn't reach any of the door handles with my free hand. Had to yell across the parking lot to them for help.

High Q doesn't usually play so nice with small sealed. Of course it also depends on your definition of "small".

Seat up/seat down could be changing the final alignment of the sub + enclosure + vehicle, which is changing the impedance curve of the subwoofer. If the change is significant enough and the impedance over certain bandwidths has decreased compared to seat down, the amp could need to output more power over certain frequency bandwidths and as a result would draw more current. If your electrical wasn't able to supply the additional current, the voltage would drop. How are you measuring the drop and how much of a difference is it? I assume the issue with voltage drop occurs over the entire electrical system and not JUST at the fuse, which could indicate a different problem.

Check all of the glue joints to see if the glue came loose. More than likely the dust cap, but could be the spiders, surround or voice coil former.

Vaped. Huh?It's gone gone. Not even moved to the archives. Just *poof*

Hmmm.....enclosure should be based on desired response, not power. So how did you go about designing the driver without TSP ? Those are generally a pretty important aspect of the design process.

What happened to the Skar section?

How are you recommending enclosures if you don't have TSP's yet ? Better yet how did you even design the driver without them ? And why does the enclosure recommendation "depend on power"? Yes, I understand how the enclosure affects mechanical power handling, that's not what I'm asking.

By the same token vehicle transfer fiction is going to change vehicle to vehicle so an arbitrary suggestion based on that unknown variable is going to be just as wrong as basing the enclosure on anechoic response alone.And the better solution to the TS problem is to publish both small and large signal parameters rather than none at all. Transfer function, right? Sorry, just making sure I'm not misreadingYes, I hate posting from my fucking IPad mini because I typo all the time and it auto-corrects to the wrong word......but it's so damn convenient.

By the same token vehicle transfer function is going to change vehicle to vehicle so an arbitrary suggestion based on that unknown variable is going to be just as wrong as basing the enclosure on anechoic response alone.And the better solution to the TS problem is to publish both small and large signal parameters rather than none at all.