Impious

LOL.....anyone interested in sound quality has stopped using rear fill ?? I'm a little confused here.....but if you're saying what I think you're saying, that's way too many speakers. Just do one set of components in front and you are done.

If you are talking about the mids Feandil and Ology are doint; Those aren't "Adire" speakers....those are "Ology Audio" speakers being built by Adire (same as Soundsplinter Subwoofers being built by TC Sounds). You are probably going to end up doing separate EQ and active crossover for the horns. You'll want the crossover to be capable of 24db/oct, and you will want a lot of EQ ability. If you want an all-in-one unit, something like the Audiocontrol DQX would work great if the xover points work. For mids.....2ohms are decently rare. RE XXX6.5, Image Dynamics CX62, if you can find Image Dynamics IDQ8 in dual 4ohm.

I've used Raammat and SecondSkin Damplifier.....and frankly, I really liked the Raammat better. www.raamaudio.com Best value mat on the market, IMHO (and I was saying this prior to the sound deadener showdown, thank you very much ). And Rick (the owner) is a great, great guy. One of the best in the industry.

Fmods ??

Well, I guess I'll just play around with it then Try it a few different ways.

But did you put the wire before or after the passive? That was basically what I was getting at. "Regular" wire to the passive, then the Omni after it. Or Omni to the passive, and "regular" wire after it.

Received the wire today, along with some surprisingly accurate personal references noted on the demo ring address page So, I haven't read a lot of the threads regarding this (mainly wanted to avoid reading any previous reviews of the wire, as to avoid influencing my own observations)......but what would one suggest to do with the wire for running a passive setup? Would the supposed "differences" still be there if I ran this wire from the amp to the passive, then "regular" wire from the passive to the speakers? Want to be sure I'm giving this wire a fair shot, I guess.

Well, thanks guys. We'll see what comes of it. Deciding between attempting it myself, or having a respected member of another forum build one for me for $20. I'm leaning towards the latter.

Alright all you smart folk, here's what I am wanting: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=180-960 I want to be able to run that directly off of my car's electrical system. You can see from the description that it runs off of 6VDC from the included power supply. So, what would be needed is a power supply to convert the 12VDC from my electrical system to 6VDC. I've also had something about Zener Diodes mentioned to me....but I'm not really sure what those are all about. Anybody want to give me a quick run down of the best way to go, and how each is accomplished (i.e. what a simple yet effective PS design would consist of, what Zener diodes do and if they would be an effective and simple fix in my situation, approximate cost, etc). Thanks

Well, that was sort of one of my questions. Since the voltage will swing from ~13.8V (car on) to 12V (car off), I'd assume that would complicate the design some.

Nope. I'll post the voltage regulator design asap. Can you find me the current draw? You will need a LM7806 3-pin regulator forsure, other parts depend on the current draw. According to PE tech support, both the unit and included PS say 250mA on them. PS: PE tech support rocks. They didn't have that in the notes, so he ran back and pulled one off the shelf to check for me. Two thumbs up

Well, Rl-s has minimally more excursion, so it has the ability to have slightly more output. Sound quality.....well, I know someone who listened to the Rl-s that I had for demo, and liked it more than any XXX he'd ever heard (which he's heard around 15 or so). Downfall is the Rl-s needs a larger enclosure.

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread....18&pagenumber=1 (for those too lazy to click the link) Boys, Zed just informed me that he needs 50 buyers for each amps and the production will take place. Price for Kronos: $700 Price for Leviathan: $1200 Deposit: $350 and $600 respectively. Who's in? http://zedaudio.com/Products/New-Amplifiers.htm KRONOS: This is a 175w x 4 at 4 ohms or 350w x 4 at 2 ohms four channel amplifier. It has identical front panel features as Draconia. There are pairs of switches added to the rear panel which allow the pairs of channels to be switched into a high current mode. This will change the above specifications to 2 and 1 ohm respectively. The chassis will be 700mm (27.55

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11 Good choice

I voted for you

Would love to snatch up a Kronos.....but I honestly have my reservations that the preorder quantities will be met

PM sent

I'm down for this aswell. Will PM you my addy. Intriguing challenge you have proposed here.

DIY baby !! Grap up some good Canare wire with some partsexpress ends, and build your own. Otherwise, I've always like my Stinger Bullet series.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3891

There is no headunit on the market that can do 50% of what the H701 can do The only ones that compare are the units that use external processors (just like the H701 is ), such as the P9 combo or Sony C90/4000X combo. I have an 8053, and I'd trade it for a H701 any day of the week.....

As I said, I would avoid Audiocontrol analog pieces. Not user friendly at all, and the resistors packs to set the crossover points are a PITA. Likewise, I would avoid the 4XS. Notoriously a bad unit, through and through. Do a search on ECA for the 4XS....many people do not like them at all. And not just *nobodies*, but some seriously respected members are all of the same opinion. Find something else. The XM-7 is one of the most flexible analog crossovers ever produced. XM-5 is great aswell out of the older lineup. The Coustic XM6 is a great unit out of their current production line-up (since the DX-28 and XM-7 are darn near impossible to find). Not nearly as flexible as the other units...but good none-the-less. Tru Technology F-1 and F-2 are great units. As is the Linear Power X03 (if you can find one). If you have cash, look into the Alpine H701.

Eclipse 8053 -or- Coustic Design Reference DX-28 (not currently in production, but ebay/for sale forum prices are in the $80-$150 range) Haven't decided which one I'm going to use yet. I'd personally stay away from any non-digital Audiocontrol crossover. Those resistor packs are a PITA.

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