Impious

You do not want to purchase those. LPG are good budget tweeters, and these are currently on sale; http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=138&products_id=544 While I've not seen any reviews of these SB Acoustics tweeters, SB generally builds good drivers; http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=147&products_id=8300 Seas has multiple offerings, for example; http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=149&products_id=633 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=149&products_id=1466 What is your price range and how low do you intend on playing them, and what available slopes do you have?

CSS was recommending up to 500hz, but I'm going to see if I can push the envelope and get another half octave out of them The Trio8's are what I'll be (attempting) to use with my horns. There are some pro drivers that will give you a ton of "snap" at ~100hz and up, but crap out below that. I've heard good things about those XS mids, haven't heard them myself however. I was considering them but I'm a cheap bastard & didn't want to spend the coin.

wut u mean i not alloud to talk bout my daily SQL system on dis forum oh man i prolly gonna mess a few of dem rules up i not good at teh internet Sorry. Had a long day at work and needed to humor myself a little.

What is the Le going to come in at?

http://www.rainbow-audio.de/ These guys? Good products. High quality. Well designed for the most part. Have everything from entry level products to ridiculously expensive high end.

i might be able to fit an 8 in my kicks. Would that be better than in my doors? Kicks are better than the doors, IMO, as long as some attention is given to early reflections. Better path length differences, better ability to aim the driver, less diffraction from door panels/etc.

They extend much lower than a typical tweeter. Never done a 3-way with horns myself, although it's certainly possible and many others have. Currently have a set of 8" mids that I need to build kickpanels for. The horns are installed, just need to get the mids in.

Under

I had replied to this last night.....but; http://tymphany.com/categories/tymphany-lat In plain english; It is a subwoofer. Inside of the "tube" are multiple smaller diameter cones, all connected together to motors at each end of the structure. There are holes on both the front and rear of the tube, which allows the sound pressure to enter the listening space and creates the "frontwave" and "backwave". The purpose in the unique design was to allow for more cone area in a smaller package, ideally taking up less overall room than a standard speaker. The other models are also available at Madisound; http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=175

Apparently any post made after the site backup yesterday was lost, which is why part of your thread disappeared. But as to your question.....no, those are not just the horn bodies. But those are also the lower end horns, which are less sensitive. If you look in the right places and look used, you can find the higher end models (CD1Pro and CD2 Comp) for great prices. I paid $220 shipped for a pair of used ID CD2 Neo horns. It was a steal of a deal, but it just goes to show that good deals are out there if you look for them.

It is very possible that a true 3-way would perform better than what you have setup now. Your current setup is not very ideal.

There are two things to understand about interference, both constructive and destructive (destructive interference is known as cancellation); 1) It's not a matter of "loud" and "quiet", it's a matter of the interference creating peaks and lulls in the frequency response. 2) There are two sources of interference; The combination of waves from two different sources (two different speakers), and the combination of a reflected wave with the direct wave from a single source. The former is a function of how where the two speakers are located both in relation to each other as well the listener, and the bandwidth the speakers are playing; the latter is a function of what reflective surfaces the soundwaves from a speaker encounters on it's path from the speaker to your ear. In your original post, if you placed the two speakers side by side; at lower frequencies the speakers output would combine and you would benefit from the same increase in output as you would from adding a 2nd sub to a previously single sub setup (same physics apply.....long wavelengths compared to short relative distance between the speakers). In upper frequencies you would begin running into issues in the frequency response, and where this occurred would be a function of the center-to-center distance of the two speakers. What exactly is your goal?

Just skimmed the first page. That godless sure thinks he's smart because he knows RMS is short for "root means squared", yet is stupid enough not to realize there is no such thing as RMS power. It's a marketing term, not an electrical term......and yet he tries to "define" it.

Not worth the price. For only a little bit more money you could step up considerably in quality and performance. What is your budget?

Why would someone do that?

Completed my first ever craigslist deal. Picked up an essentially new 15" Brahma for a fair price Surprised as shit to find an Adire locally.

Yeah, you will be fine. You have to remember that those output voltages are basically at maximum output with a 0db source. Neither of those conditions will be met when listening to music, so when listening to music the actual output voltage will be much less than rated.

Hope it works out well. I personally have never had much luck firing into the rear seat (unless it's through a ski hole like my current setup). Doesn't seem to allow enough unrestricted airflow to properly pressurize the airspace in my experience.

There was a guy on DIYMA selling 4. Don't know if he still has any available.

Never heard the Hertz so I can't comment Alpine SPX-17Pro are another good option in that price range. Pioneer TS-C720PRS aswell. Those are just a couple off the top of my head. Rainbow, DLS, Focal, etc all offer products in that price range.

Do your seats fold down? As for expanding foam.....I honestly wouldn't worry about going that far with it unless you plan on competing and are worried about tenths of a decibel. My setup is IB and I didn't use any expanding foam/etc and IMO still have great results. I would personally just build enough of a wall to separate the cabin from the trunk and not worry about filing minor gaps with foam as the difference would be miniscule. But that's just me.......

I just gave paypal a piece of my mind. Not that it'll actually change anything.....but, they suck and deserve it.

For Hertz, you might try calling Don @ Unexpected Creations 732-921-9046 Even if he can't ship them, maybe you can point you in a direction of where to purchase them if you have no local dealers. He goes by 6spdcoupe on most of the forums. Other than that, it depends on how much you would be willing to spend.

You are basically creating a wall that separates the trunk from the cabin of the car behind the rear seats, with the sub and port firing through this wall into the cabin. John of Acoustic Elegance had a good recent post that shows some issues that can arise from the sound wave deflecting off the rear of the trunk; http://www.caraudio....7&postcount=221 So you have the advantage of pressurizing the cabin directly and not the cabin & trunk and having that extra sound wave potentially causing some interference issues. In theory I suppose there is also less air to pressurize (since you are now "eliminating" the trunk's airspace), so you might gain some SPL also. But I don't care much about SPL so I've not done any hands-on experimenting with this to know for certain. Well, you could. That's probably not the best method though. A lot of people just use some L brackets to secure the box to the trunk. A little less sightly, but a little easier to access and less room for error (such as accidentally screwing into your gas tank.....which would be bad). Well, I can't run the numbers at the moment......but your enclosure will be larger and tuned lower, so intuition tells me you'll lose peak output but gain some low frequency extension/output. Technically the glue is what holds the enclosure together. The screws are really just there to hold the wood together until the glue dries . Many people don't use any screws or nails in the enclosure, they just glue and clamp that panels. You will want to make sure you can clamp the panels until the glue dries to get a solid, tight bond between the panels with no large gaps.

How set are you on those ID comps? Reason I ask is that the CTX line is more of an entry level product. My personal opinion would be to either leave the rears stock, or spend much less money on them (if you feel you must upgrade them) and spend some additional money on the front stage speakers as they will make the largest difference in the sound of your system. I also see nothing in your budget for sound deadening, which is also very important to a quality sounding system.