Impious

Those two phrases are contradictory.

In my signature. Custom built 10" dual 1 ohm sub.......tells us absolutely nothing. How well your sub will or will not perform sealed or ported, and what enclosure sizes and/or tuning, is entirely dependent upon the parameters of the subwoofer. Any idea what the T/S parameters are? As for cost.....the prices for the custom built ported enclosures are fair if they are quality built enclosures.

Are you sure there aren't any wires touching or shorting out after the rearrangement of the wiring?

The feature you are looking for is called a regulated power supply. It is not unique to JL, however I don't know off hand if any other amplifiers feature both regulated power output and a regulated power supply, if those are the two features you are looking for. If you don't need regulated power output but want regulated power supply, those aren't as difficult to find...but not all amplifiers that have regulated power supplies will necessarily advertise the fact that they have regulated power supplies. Although remember, there are no free lunches. Amplifiers with regulated power supplies are able to output roughly the same power as voltage drops because they draw more current from the electrical system to compensate. The (relatively speaking) small variation in power output related to voltage drop with unregulated power supplies generally isn't enough to cause an audible difference.......

RF hasn't been known in recent years for stellar speakers. Drop the rear door speaker idea and spend all of your speaker budget on one set for quality components for up front. Or purchase one less expensive set for the front and use the remainder of your budget for quality sound deadening if you don't already have any. As for amplifiers....as much as I don't often recommend Sundown (not that I dislike them, but they are pimped pretty hard around these parts) you can get a refurb'd 50.4 from db-r for $150, bridge it down to 2 channels and run 200w per side to your one set of front components. That'd save you another $100 compared to your current amplifier choice that you could use to do something else.....sound deadening, etc. If you feel you absolutely must have some rear speakers for "fill" for rear seat passengers, just keep the stockers and run them off the headunit power. Otherwise, just leave them disconnected. Oops; doesn't look like db-r has any refurb'd 50.4's at the moment. In which case a refurb'd 125.2 would be good; http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_67_69_77 http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_67_69_78

.....No comment.

Go active with horns & 8" mids if you want loud sound quality. Aside from that, I agree with M5......$1k+ passives are generally a waste. A lot of money spent on something that still won't be optimal for the installation or vehicle. If you want to stay passive, that's understandable. But I wouldn't spend near that much money doing it.

So did it sound different before, or you just uninstalled and reinstalled everything and it measured different?

You can't have it both ways. If you want it quick, go to a local shop and pay more. If you want to save money or get a fancier box for your money, you're going to have to wait on the guys who do this in their spare time. The other option would be to try to negotiate with the shop. It'll probably still be more expensive, but if it costs you an extra $100 is it worth it to you compared to waiting weeks between build time and shipping from one of the online guys?

Everybody chooses or cites arbitrary lengths of wire for grounds. None of them mean anything in reality. The increase in resistance from 4' of wire isn't going to be enough to matter in daily systems. It's more important that the wire is terminated to a good location in the vehicle than keeping the wire some arbitrary length.

As to the original question, which I forgot to answer......I would go Kinetik

To the best of my knowledge, Kinetik has exclusive rights to most if not all of their batteries and does not sell those rights to other companies for use. They may be built at the same buildhouse, but that doesn't make them the same battery.

Generally undesirable. Multiple drivers playing the same frequencies will create constructive and destructive interference which can wreak havoc on the frequency response. And if the drivers time arrival is different it can create issues with imaging, etc.

The highpass seems too high, and you are not going to want to run a 6.5" driver up to 4.5khz. Why are you planning on using such a gigantic overlap in frequencies between the midbass and midrange? No, an o-scope won't be of any use for setting the xover frequencies. Hitting exact frequencies really is not important. Don't go into it thinking you need to set the crossover to "X" frequency. Finding "X" frequency doesn't matter. What is important is the sound. That's the only thing that's important. If that means you set the lowpass for the midbass at 540hz instead of 750hz, so be it. Base your crossover settings on the resultant sound and not an arbitrary frequency. If knowing your crossover frequency is really important to you, you could figure it out with a DMM, test tones and some basic math after you have the crossovers set to where they sound the best. But I honestly wouldn't worry about it. A steeper slope will change how the driver reacts with a given crossover frequency and the interaction of the drivers around the crossover point. It's used to protect the tweeter. Some crossovers have them, some don't. It depends on whether or not you want or need to protect the tweeters from being overpowered.

The first question is what are you trying to accomplish? We can't tell you how much and what to buy if we don't know what you are trying to do. A very brief overview; If you are trying to reduce road noise, you need something with mass. Some people come up with creative ways of achieving this.....the simplest however is MLV which Don sells. Problem is it's heavy and expensive to ship. To work most effectively, it needs to be decoupled from the surface it's covering. Closed cell foam doesn't absorb sound well, it diffracts sound. If you are trying to block road noise, this isn't the product to use. If you are trying to absorb reflections, this isn't the product to use. It does however work well as a decoupler for MLV. Open cell foam absorbs sounds. The frequency range it works most effectively in is dependent upon several factors, not the least of which is thickness. As you try to absorb sounds lower in frequency, you need increase the thickness of the foam. Generally for open cell foam to effectively absorb a frequency the foam needs to be the thickness of a 1/4 wavelength of the frequency. Due to the thickness requirement, a foam thick enough to absorb road noise will be too thick to actually use. OCF can be used to control reflections from the speakers (again, with the bandwidth of effectiveness related to the thickness of the foam).

I hate my job.

Which is what makes it look so attractive to me. No offense, but if you are planning to use this with the system laid out in your sig.......I wouldn't bother. There are a multitude of other things to focus on improving upon first if improving the quality of the sound is your goal. That said; If you were planning on improving your system lay out and components at some point in the future then IMPRINT might be a worthwhile investment at that time.

I think you underestimate the difficulty in properly tuning an active setup It's no cake walk to get right. I would rather have a well executed 2-way front stage than a mediocre 3-way. Bridge 4 channels of the Lev down to two for your mids, since they will likely be 8ohm that'll give you 300w to each mid for great headroom and use the last 2 channels for the tweeters. And you'll still have all the pieces in place so that in the future it'd be a fairly simple switch to go 3-way. An RTA while possibly useful won't be extremely helpful. There are a lot of issues an RTA can't help you with. Your budget allows a pretty wide range of driver choice. You could really spend a lot less than your budget on a quality 2-way and if tuned and installed properly have really great results. EDIT: Deja Vu.....haven't we had this conversation before? LOL

I don't see the point in going with the DC amplifier if you are using an H701. I would choose the Zed out of those options. Dayton & Scanspeak are good options for speakers, although there are dozens more that could be recommended aswell. What type of budget are you working with? If this is your first attempt at active, I would recommend you stick to a 2-way front stage.

The best solution is the one that solves the problem most cost and time effectively. There is no best solution until there is a problem to be solved. You currently do not have a problem, therefore there is no best solution. And yes, a "1000 watt system" can very easily be handled by a stock electrical system if the listening habits, music selection, and system settings do not create a situation where the amplifiers are putting an excessive strain on the electrical system and the stock electrical system is in strong functional condition. Again, it comes down to variables. If you want to "plan ahead"....save enough back in your budget to replace the battery and alternator as that is worst-case scenario. But there's no sense is formulating an actual plan or spending any money until there is some problem we are trying to correct.

First, get rid of the capacitor. Second, none of us can predict the future. There are a wide multitude of factors that need to be considered; Your listening habits, music choice, system settings, the health of the current electrical system, type and severity of any problems if any do arise, etc etc. We can not troubleshoot a problem that does not yet exist. You need to first install all of the equipment and see how your current electrical system handles it once installed before adding or upgrading any additional electrical system components (batteries, etc). If you do have issues, you can report back with the type of problem you are having, the severity of the problem, and what circumstances the problem occurs in. From there we can assist you in troubleshooting. You may install it all and realize you have no problems with your current electrical system, which will do nothing but save you time and money compared to trying to troubleshoot a problem that doesn't yet exist.

Any idear what the offending frequency range is? I would imagine you have a region where the reflection isn't really a problem, and some region where you notice the problem. It's hard to tell what the dimension of the dash are there, but if the problem frequencies are higher and the dimension there in the corner of the dash aren't bad, you may be able to tame them with some possibly unobtrusive open cell foam shoved there in the corner of the dash. An informal waveguide would probably work, but I think anything useful would probably be too obtrusive.

Is your goal still mainly just to get loud? As much as it pains me to say this, you might be better off with some horn loaded tweeters or compression drivers with pro audio horns. Would be cheaper than that Morel tweeter and get 3x as loud off of 10w of power. Something like the Eminence APT-80

In my car, I used a wire coat hanger. Bent the coat hanger into a straight piece, fished the coat hanger through the rubber boot, taped the wire on one end then pulled it back through. Not sure if it will be that easy in your vehicle or not.