Impious

Atleast it gives you a great excuse to get out and play with the stereo again Are you changing anything or just repairing what was damaged?

If you do not need everything the SAZ has to offer (higher voltage, higher output, strappable, etc) over the SAE then yes, the SAE would be a more affordable yet satisfactory option.

I thought Jacob had a thread or post in his forum about the differences between the SAZ and SAE, but can't seem to find it at the moment.

Heh....the ID guys also had some kooky thoughts about amplifiers. If ECA wasn't deceased I'd try to find the threads where ID was, for example, telling people that using a class D amp on their IDMax subwoofers would damage the subs......

READ ME

It's Zenon

Pot calling kettle black.

If the Sundown isn't worth $230 more to you, then go with MBQ.

o my bad, what are you looking for? like if it doesnt take expensive equipment i would be more than happy to do it for you 2marrow. You wouldn't be able to do it in your driveway For starters, a distortion measurement would be helpful.

go from a lower quality amp to a higher quality amp and its almost a guarentee that ur going to hear some kind of a difference. Meh, possible but unlikely. More likely it's a difference in power or some system setting. im sure its a difference in power, bc i havnt fine tuned the sundown yet, but i set the gain to where it sounded the best and left the ssf and hpf where it was...but on the hifonics i spent a decent amount of time setting it to where it sounded best, and imo the sundown sounds quite a bit better than the hifonics as it is now, ill set the sundown up 2marrow and im guessing it will sound even better. to me tho the sundown just sounds cleaner. So you admit that it really has nothing to do with hearing a difference between the amplifiers

A lot of people say that, yet no one has provided actual verification the times I've asked for it. So....got a link to an actual bench test that verifies this? SAZ-1500D POWER TESTING - SSA Car Audio Forum http://www.sundownau...0D/CIMG2493.MOV http://www.sundownau...0D/CIMG2494.MOV Those are useless clamp tests....NOT what I asked for.

go from a lower quality amp to a higher quality amp and its almost a guarentee that ur going to hear some kind of a difference. Meh, possible but unlikely. More likely it's a difference in power or some system setting.

A lot of people say that, yet no one has provided actual verification the times I've asked for it. So....got a link to an actual bench test that verifies this?

I think you may be confusing a couple different things. The T/S parameter BL alone tells you nothing about Xmax. You can obtain Xmag (linear excursion allowed by the motor) from a BL vs X plot, which is a graph displaying the value of BL in relation to excursion where Xmag is defined as the point where the BL falls to 70.7% of it's rest value. This is a graph of BL vs X generated by a Klippel analyzer; http://diymobileaudi...er%20prs/bl.JPG Xmax is generally accepted to be the lesser of Xmag and Xsus (linear excursion allowed by the suspension). I will also say there are several methods for determining Xmax, all of them may give slightly different results. So knowing what method the company uses for arriving at their Xmax can be important before trying to compare the Xmax values for two different drivers.

Clamp tests are pretty much worthless. Which AFAIK are what Sundown does.

Do you have a link to an actual bench test that verifies this?

10*log(1500/1000) = 1.76db And that is before considering the effects of power compression, which will decrease that number further. Audible? Maybe. Dramatic? No.

Psssh. Your momma.

Mathematically it's the same thing. Grammatically you said it back asswards and incorrectly. Read the definitions again. Gross = "before", net = "after".

I told you exactly what product you need to look for in my 2nd paragraph. What more do you want? yes i know, a 1/3 octave that starts at 20 hz, but what brand, i now know what type, but now what is a good brand. not trying to be a menace or anything, just trying to do it right. its like telling some one they need an amplifier that does 1000wrms at 2 ohms, does that mean every amp out there will work for them? no. who knows i might chose the worst one... i dont want that to happen. sorry if you consider this spoon feeding, but it will help alot! thanks, Anton Miller Because I spend 30+ minutes going to half a dozen or more online sites to find affordable, reputable products for the best prices for the requester only for them to find a reason not to chose any of them.....which means I just wasted 30+ minutes for nothing. You can do the legwork. Find some EQ's within your budget that offer the features that you need, toss the links up here and we can help you separate the junk from the decent products out of what you selected.

No. No. I think you understand the difference, you're just using confusing and unnecessary phrasing to attempt to describe them. From what I can gather, we're saying; Gross - displacement = Net You're trying to say; Net + displacement = Gross

Net is the remaining amount after all displacements are deducted from the gross enclosure volume. Apparently Alton has never received a paycheck.....your Gross pay is the amount of money you earned, your Net pay is the amount you receive after all deductions (taxes, insurance, etc) are subtracted. I also do not think he scrolled far enough down on the definitions page: net 2   /nɛt/ Show Spelled [net] Show IPA adjective, noun, verb,net·ted, net·ting. –adjective 1. Remaining after deductions, as for charges or expenses (opposed to gross): net earnings. And if he had read the definition for gross that he posted; gross    /groʊs/ Show Spelled [grohs] Show IPA adjective,-er, -est, noun,pluralgross for 11, gross·es for 12, 13; verb –adjective1.without deductions; total, as the amount of sales, salary, profit, etc., before taking deductions for expenses, taxes, or the like (opposed to net): gross earnings; gross sales. So....Gross is before deductions, net is after deductions.

I told you exactly what product you need to look for in my 2nd paragraph. What more do you want?

Except for a couple specific scenarios, line drivers are generally a waste-o-money. Stronger signal does not inherently mean audibly better sound, audibly less noise, or better clarity. If you don't have any noise issues with your current setup, then a line driver is going to do nothing other than take $150 out of your pocket.

Curious.....are you planning on reinstalling your rear seats?