Impious

This B&C driver is well liked; Parts-Express.com:

It depends on the specific scenario. If you double your cone area and double your power (i.e. adding the 2nd sub decreases the load on the amplifier from 2ohm to 1ohm and as a result power output doubles) then the theoretical gain would be 6db. If you double your cone area but power stays the same (such as would possibly happen on a JL amp with regulated outputs) then the theoretical gain would be 3db. If you double your cone area but power halves (i.e. adding the 2nd sub increases the load on the amplifier from 1ohm to 2ohm and as a result power output halves) then theoretically there would be no gain.

I've never really understood why kids from the suburbs and small towns (etc) want to drive around listening to some guy rap about "fuckin' hoes, slangin' rock and Benjamins" when it has zero relevance to their life other than they feel cool if they play it really loud in their car with their hat turned sideways and lean to one side. That is all.

Instead of wasting time using letters to describe the shape you think the port should be, how about you tell us the actual dimensions of your enclosure and the dimension of the port? That way we can calculate the actual enclosure volume and tuning of your enclosure. Seems a little more productive, don't you think?

Helpful hint for the future. Adding the tag "IMO" behind a false statement doesn't make the preceding statement any less false The world is flat, IMO The Sun orbits the Earth, IMO Grass is the color fuchsia, IMO Class A/B amps are cleaner than class D amps, IMO See what I mean?

Need to know your budget along with more details of current equipment, installation locations and system setting (crossover points/etc).

Probably because it is Alex Grey's work It's a painting title "Despair". I stole the image from his website, cropped and resized it into an avatar.

Do you or will you have any processing available beyond what the SAX offers?

A line driver or gain adjustment is not the solution to your problem. The solution is to identify the source of the noise, and solve that problem. Please read the sticky on how to troubleshoot noise issues located HERE If your issue is related to grounds, for example, then a line driver may actually compound the issue rather than "solve" anything.

This is a thread to vent about the little things in life that make you scratch your head or drive you crazy. For example.....why do Pizza Rolls only provide directions for making 6 pizza rolls in the microwave, but sell them in quantities that are not evenly divisible by 6 so that you always end up with some left over? We have a box that says quantity 15, then directions for cooking 6 at at time.....no one got the bright idea to just put another 3 in the box?

Installing it near the amp partially defeats the purpose. Ideally the higher signal voltage increases the signal to noise ratio of the signal transfer. The noise being induced into your system is independent of the voltage of the signal. It will stay the same regardless. So as you increase the voltage of the signal the level of the noise will be smaller in proportion to the signal, which increases the signal to noise ratio. If you place it near the amp, then the signal traveling the farthest (and typically noisiest) distance is the "original" voltage level from your headunit, and you aren't increasing the signal voltage until after the noise has already entered the signal (which means the voltage level of the noise will also be increased since it's now part of the signal at this point). The RF-BLD also features balanced differential outputs which aids in noise reduction. Again, if you are using this feature then having the unit placed near the amp would defeat the purpose. You would want this placed on the source side of the signal transfer so that any noise induced during the signal transfer is able to be handled by the balanced system. If you put the system in the trunk, then the signal entering the unit already has the noise included with the signal. Putting the unit in the trunk would be a little like putting a condom on after you've had sex. That said.....why do you think you need one?

Still in need of an amp? I have a brand new in box JBL GTO 1201.1II, rated 1114w @ 2ohm. $175 ? I live a couple hours north of Indy.

Minihorns do not extend as low in frequency as the full size horns. Typically the mini's are only good down to 1100-1200hz, which is still low enough to match a good 8" driver to for a stout 2way while offering you the increased efficiency for high output. You would not want to mount them on top of the dash. If you did some checking around on ID's forum, you should be able to find some info on how well Mini's would fit in your body style of vehicle.

You put waaayyyy too much emphasis on competition. I read a joke (I think it was a joke?) once about two world renowned poets in heaven arguing about which of them was the best poet who had ever lived. God intervened by explaining that neither of them was the best poet that had ever lived....the best poet that ever lived was a man no one had ever heard of, who kept every poem he had ever written hid in a chest at the foot of his bed. The moral of the story relates here.....

Given your goal, I would also suggest horns with a solid 8" midbass.

With an EBP of 157, I don't know any program worth using that would suggest a sealed enclosure. If there is a program that suggests sealed w/ a Qts of .2 and an Fs of 34hz....stop using that program.

LOL....I couldn't remember the anatomical term, and was too lazy to look it up. Thank you for the correction

Not true.

Given the Q has significantly more linear excursion capabilities than a Type R, a 12" or 15" sealed Q shouldn't have a problem surpassing the Type R sealed in output capabilities. A 12" Q ported would blow it out of the water.

LOL......Hey now, my degree is in Accounting ! Sorry for the sidetracking Randal. Good luck with the rebuild. Who's ears did your borrow for the evening.....or should I say who borrowed your whiskey for the evening ?

When my wife & I were on our honeymoon a few years ago, the resort had a hardcore porn channel that was free. I found it by accident channel surfing (seriously). Anyways, the porno flick that happened to be playing at the time was a knock off of Dukes of Hazard. The acting was horrible, but it had a decent plot After watching Daisy give Uncle Jesse head while getting banged from behind by Luke, I can't watch the original series without cringing and getting excited in the pants all at the same time.

It seems like 9 of the last 10 movies I watched sucked pretty bad. Badly enough I didn't even ascribe their titles to memory....though they were mostly recent releases.

That's because the title of the movie is Worst Movie You've Ever Seen. You're the only fairy here who has seen the movie. Since I have a penis, when my wife and daughter watch it I go do something else....

From the pictures they appear to be aimed fairly off axis to the listeners, which is not uncommon as this allows the listening axis of both seats to be closer to equally off axis to both speakers which in turn helps the frequency response have less deviation between the L & R speakers at the listening position. If you look at pictures of some of the big name competitors, their mids are hardly ever aimed at the listener. They are usually aimed far off axis, many times aimed straight across the vehicle at each other. Vertical (height) ques generally begin to occur when the wavelength of the soundwave is equal to the height of your ear. Generally this will be in the 3khz - 4khz range......But if ya got big honkin' ears you may start to recognize height ques at a much lower frequency The potential problem with separating the mid from the tweeter by a great distance (a distance greater than the wavelength of the crossover frequency) is coherence and frequency response at and near the crossover point. It can be overcome, but something that needs considered. In midbass frequencies the wavelength of the sound wave is typically longer than the diameter of the cone (for the speaker sizes we typically use in car audio) so the on- and off-axis response of the driver is not going to deviate from each other. But as frequency increases and the wavelength becomes smaller than the diameter of the cone (as may happen in the midrange frequencies) the soundwaves generated by the cone will begin to destructively interfere with each other and the off-axis begin to roll off and deviate from the on axis response. Think of the speaker as an array of tiny point sources. When the wavelength of the soundwave is less than the distance between the sources, they can destructively interfere. Where this problem occurs for a driver playing midrange depends on the diameter of the driver. The effect is referred to as "beaming". This is one of the reasons I mentioned above that many competitors intentionally aim speakers off axis to both listeners. If you aim a speaker on axis to one listener, it will inherently be off axis to the other listener. Since in the midrange frequencies beaming usually begins to occur, the on and off axis response is going be different. One thing you generally want in a good stereo setup is for the frequency response at the listening position to be the same from both the left and right speakers. And if you want a stereo to sound equally as good from both the driver and passenger seats, then the frequency response at both seats also needs to be the same. So if you aim the speakers on axis to the driver, the passenger will be off axis and hence the frequency response will likely be different. If you aim the speakers at some arbitrary point between the two seats, then you will be more off axis to the near side speaker than you will be the opposing speaker which will create a difference in frequency response between the left and right speakers. But if you aim them close to equally off axis to both listeners, then the response at both listening positions and from both speakers will be closer to the same. Some competitors start by aiming the speakers either at the opposing speaker or at the back of the headunit, then make their adjustments from there. I tried to help. Sorry, I didn't read this paragraph before asking about the crossover

Are the fronts passive?