Impious

I placed a fairly decent sized order of distribution blocks (fused and unfused) from them a couple years ago. I'll never purchase them again. Kompression fittings suck ass (at least on the 0/1ga terminal that I have)...not only was the wire nearly impossible to get seated tightly, but the Kompression nut was taller than the block itself so when trying to tighten/loosen to the Kompression fitting it would scrape and get hung up on the bottom plate which was a PITA. One of the fused blocks arrived broken and was obviously damaged in manufacturing (screw tightened too tightly which broke the plastic bottom), which indicates to me poor QC. The set screws on the unfused block where slightly cockeyed....works fine, just looks like poor QC. That said Knu's customer service was honestly great. When I told him one of the blocks arrived broken I had a replacement in my hands 2 days later, no questions asked (though I did provide pictures in the email). So I don't dislike the company, just the products I've used from them.

If you're worried about resonance get some allthread and some nuts rather than wasting the time and money on corkboard and MDF and building a secondary enclosure. But honestly unless you are trying to squeeze tenths of a decibel out of the enclosure and/or running an extremely high SPL system it's pretty unnecessary. The acoustics of the vehicle will completely swamp any possible effects of enclosure resonances of a well constructed enclosure made with appropriately thick material.

I was wondering how long it would be till someone posted the Parthenon. When I first saw that I was like "WTF is that?". I did a google search for rotary woofer and have a little better understanding. Has anyone here experienced one in person? The Parthenon (pictured above) isn't a rotary subwoofer.....it's a standard pistonic woofer on steroids. The fan looking thing is a rotary subwoofer.....I'm not sure if you just quoted the wrong picture or not.

Oh wow..these things are gonna tear your head off does that mean at 1watt, 1mm of excursion, it hit 109dBs? No, it means with 1w of power measured 1 meter from the driver (on-axis) the output would be 109db.

The red probably isn't true. I would be surprised if he wasn't gaining financially from having his name on a product. It's possible he's not, but it would surprise me. Regardless, remove him from the chain and there's still more mark-up requirements than there is with a Fi product.

You are making it more difficult than it really is. If you are trying to set your gain with a DMM, then the formula is; sqrt(Power * Resistance) = Voltage So if you have an amplifier that is 800w @ 2ohm, you would have; sqrt(800 * 2) = 40V The other option is to say screw the formula and just set the gain by ear. Considering 800w is way more power than a single 12w3v2 will be able to handle (based on the voltages you mention, it appears you have an 800w @ 2ohm amplifier), setting by ear is probably the best method anyways. Or, if you really want to use the formula, you could use 300w (the rated power handling of the subwoofer) in the formula instead of the amplifier's power; sqrt(300 * 2) = 24.5V You can use that as a "baseline" and then adjust by ear from there.

Yes, but it will likely do more in a room below 30hz with that 350w than any of the actual subwoofers mentioned in this thread running at their recommended power

It's not the customer's concern; but it is the company's concern. Their time isn't free. If they spent a considerable amount of time engineering and developing the product, the money for that time and development will be recouped though the price of the product. Also keep in mind that the AA SMD is not a direct-to-consumer product like the Fi drivers are. While I'm not privy to any information, my guess would be that the MSRP will be higher since more than one company has to make money. At minimum there is a dealer network that also has to make money on the drivers as well as the buildhouse (Fi), AA as a company (I'm assuming AA operates as a separate company, but I don't really know), and probably some $ goes to SMD for having his name on the product.....unlike Fi which only has to make enough profit for themselves. So there's potentially 4 people in the mix who need to make money, unlike Fi who only has to support themselves with the sale of a BTL.

If you use the SSF and set the "HPF/FULL/LPF" selector to "full" that will bypass all of the HPF/LPF functions, so you do not need to worry about doing anything else to them.

That's interesting considering how many amplifier's I've used in my personal stereo system with the gain turned "all the way down" and still managed to be able to drive the speakers past the point of listenability. Where to set the gain is a function of several different factors. Random and inaccurate comments like the above aren't really helpful to anybody.

I'm not sure on that amplifier the slope of the subsonic filter. Amazingly I can't find it on either the website or in the manual. I'm assuming it's steeper than 12db/oct (which is the slope of the standard crossover). I would also presume that setting the "full" option for the crossover would still allow the subsonic filter to operate. Assuming I'm correct on both of those assumptions, I personally would use the subsonic filter as the highpass filter. The subsonic is just another name for a highpass filter. Set it to where ever sounds best. Since you will be bridging the amplifier, you will be highpassing (with the subsonic filter) the left side and right side independently of each other, so you will need to set the SSF to approximately the same on both channels 1/2 and channels 3/4.. The main thing is to try to set both filters as close to the same as possible. If you are highpassing your speakers with the SSF, set the "HPF/FULL/LPF" to "full". Or if you decide to use the HPF to highpass the speakers instead of the SSF, then you can use the HPF on both pair of channels set in the same manor.....to where ever sounds best, but try to set both HPF as close to the same as possible. If you use the HPF to highpass the speakers instead of the SSF, then set the SSF to it's lowest frequency setting rendering it basically ineffective. Gain is the same way. You will have to set both gains (channels 1/2 gain & channels 3/4 gain). Set it to wherever sounds best, where you can use most of the range of your headunit's volume (approximately 75% on a decently "loud" track) without overdriving your speakers. I would recommend about 75% of your headunits volume on a loud track that way you have some "headroom" on your volume control for quieter tracks or sources. But since you will have an independent gain for the left side and right side try to match the gains for both as closely as possible. It would be helpful if you had a DMM and test tones for verifying the left and right settings (both gain and crossover) are close to the same. I can help walk you through how to do this if you have access to both of those items. Bass Boost as you mentioned leave set at 0db.

An epic waste of money putting that many mids in there. And time, and space....

Clipping really has nothing to do with it.

See if this thread helps: subwoofer unloading - SSA Car Audio Forum

You have to love the talent, but WHY? The "POS" GMC above won a SHIT load of trophies because of its beauty. The talent it takes to make a truck look like that is unbelievable. Beauty is in the eye of the beerholder.

Don't. i just think it looked cool, its different but im never going to anything quite as exotic as that...or anywhere near that actually Looks cool, poor acoustical design.

Assuming the amplifier has flat frequency response and you have all of the filters disabled the amplifier will output the same voltage at any frequency (within it's linear range) for a given load.

Don't.

Looks like a European interpretation of the early Dodge Vipers.

Sundown Audio - SAE-1000D Linkable to another SAZ-1000D for 1800 watts @ 2 ohms Could that be a typo, or a Freudian slip? Hehe.

That's pretty terrible speaker placement, honestly. What's the point of all of the foam?

No cant since they are still two different amps inside, just cause they make around the same rms doesnt mean they can be strapped together. The post above which supposedly contains a copy-n-paste email from Db-r states they are exactly the same internally. In which case yes, they would be able to be strapped together. However I would advise you verify the information with Jacob before attempting.