Impious

I just saw a commercial the other day for 4 lines with phones for $160/month or $120/month.Yeah, and it's a bunch of bullshit.The only way to get the plan for $160 per month is to pay full retail for the phone (ie $600 for a Samsung or $650 for an iPhone...each), bring your own smartphone (which I don't have) or "finance" the phone over 2yrs at $30 per month per phone (which is an extra $120 per month for 4 phones). They'll sell you the phone for cheaper (ie $100 for an IPhone), but then your monthly bill is $260 instead of $160 (plus all of their bullshit fees and taxes in either instance). AT&T? 4 lines for $160, great phones for under $100. Gonna snag and HTC One M8 this weekend.HTC One M8 is retail $640. So to get the plan for $160 I either have to pay $640 for that phone or pay $32 per month for the phone. For 4 lines that's an extra $128 per month. So I could pay $2560 up front and get four HTC one's and a monthly bill of $160 ($100 for 10gb shared data + $15 per lone access charge), pay a monthly bill of $268 (not $160) plus taxes/fees and nothing up front, or pay a monthly bill of $260 ($100 for 10gb shared data + 4 line access charge@ $40 per line) plus taxes/fees and $400 up front for 4 HTC One M8's. Like I said, those ads are bullshit lies unless you already own a smartphone, which I don't. Hell, I have never in my life paid for a phone. I always just went with whatever they were giving away free.

New or used? i've sold and bought on www.swappa.com and have had GREAT success with it. They have pretty stringent standards what can be sold on the site. Its basically like ebay, but the ESN's are checked to make sure they're valid, etc. I don't care at this point. Just a fucking phone that works. Check out swappa, who is your current provider?Sprint.

I just saw a commercial the other day for 4 lines with phones for $160/month or $120/month.Yeah, and it's a bunch of bullshit. The only way to get the plan for $160 per month is to pay full retail for the phone (ie $600 for a Samsung or $650 for an iPhone...each), bring your own smartphone (which I don't have) or "finance" the phone over 2yrs at $30 per month per phone (which is an extra $120 per month for 4 phones). They'll sell you the phone for cheaper (ie $100 for an IPhone), but then your monthly bill is $260 instead of $160 (plus all of their bullshit fees and taxes in either instance).

New or used? i've sold and bought on www.swappa.com and have had GREAT success with it. They have pretty stringent standards what can be sold on the site. Its basically like ebay, but the ESN's are checked to make sure they're valid, etc. I don't care at this point. Just a fucking phone that works.

I can't find a plan with data for 4 lines that won't cost $300 per month (including the cost of basically financing the phones) or require you to pay $2500 up front for the phones. It's ridiculous. I can't believe people are actually signing up for these plans. Almost $4k a year for fucking cell phones. Fuck that and fuck the cell carriers.

Is there a reliable site for purchasing smartphones at less than full retail that the carriers charge?

I made an offer on them a couple months ago. He finally accepted it

I'm regretting every second of my decision to glass enclosures for the midbass. Many hours into it and all I have to show for it is the first layer of glass laid down. However, to make up for it these beauties were waiting for me when I got home. Decided to go a different route for the subs I had a single Shiva-X infinite baffle in my old setup and loved it. So I can't wait to get these fired up.

I'm most definitely looking forward to some quiet time there. Cops have been over there frequently for a few years, so not surprised it went down how it did. However, they've not mowed their grass yet this year. Now who's job is it to take care of that? I assume it'll just continue to grow until the city gets around to mowing it. I bet it's 18" tall on the average now.

Nope. The lady who owns the house is just a crazy crack hoe. She was married, but a couple years ago she tried to kill her husband. Chased him with a knife or some shit. Surprisingly that was the end of their relationship and it's been downhill since.

My next door neighbors house got raided last night. A couple guys went to jail. And sign on the door states in essence the property was used as a meth lab. While the live version of "Cops" next door was pretty cool to watch, I'd honestly never seen someone taken down by the cops at gun point before, now being labeled as the house next to a meth lab is going to suck ass for my property value. I guess the other benefit is not having to put up with the shitty neighbors anymore.

Happy Birthday !!

Girl you cra cra. I would LOVE to go visit the ancient sites there. But money and not sure I could handle the plane flight hold me back. The money more so. But I'm a little claustrophobic and freak out when I feel trapped. Short plane flights I'm fine. That long in an enclosed space thousands of feet above nothing but water...ehhh...pretty sketchy.

On my ipad so I can't get the imbedding links to work.

Yeah. Problem is I need a solid .5cuft, don't think half a coffee can is going to cut it for that . And no, I didn't measure mine yet. Didn't realize there were problems until they started blowing them out on ebay. Hopefully they aren't way out of spec. Yeah...um, no. Don't even need to click the link, I already know what it is. I can most definitely state I do not have the Magic Bus in my sites for this build. Maybe next time Got home from work way too late today. Rest of my week is full, so hopefully Sun I can try to make some headway on the doors.

If anyone has any great suggestions on how to glass a sealed enclosure in the door, I'm all ears There are my door panels. Can't decide if I want to glass the entire rear area from the metal of the inner door, or if I want to make a mold of the map pocket itself to create the rear half of the enclosure. The former would give me a little more airspace, the later would make life a little easier I think.

I guess maybe I could move down near Indy, that would leave us in driving distance of home but closer to the offices

So really the problem is just that I don't live close enough to the job, and don't want to move.

They pay for relocation which would cut down on my travel significantly, probably in half. Issue is I don't want to relocate. Rest of the family is fine with it but there is one little girl that it would absolutely break my heart to leave, and she couldn't come with us http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/gallery/image/9214-dscn1430/

Apply. The rest comes down to negotiation. Even if they offer you the job you don't have to take it, doesn't hurt to apply.60-75% is a lot however and should come with a significant pay increase. Time is something you can't replace. Obviously internally they will try to sell that part short, but if you are truly gone on average 3-4 nights a week it should be a 50% increase in pay (including benefits) IMO.If the office you are visiting is less than 2hrs from your home you can drive, if it's more than that they want you to stay in a hotel. The average visit is 3-4 days. There would only be a handful of offices within 2 hours of me, and you cover 60 to 80 offices. We go by a "total compensation package", so I'm sure with the free brand new car, company credit card, etc they show a 50% increase in pay on paper but not in tangible money, I.e. pay checks.

Thank you for noticing . Lots of weighted lunges at the gym. Yes and no. If you do the right things right you end up with a car that'll do decent from either seat for the most part. Things like trying to equalize pathlengths, get a decently flat FR or at least similar FR from each side, good selection in xover points, etc. In my case though the midbass in the doors will need quite a bit of TA so it'll only really image well from the drivers seat over the entire spectrum, but the midrange and up should do pretty good from either seat. Aiming yes I've almost always ended up off axis even for the best imaging from only the driver's seat. I think it has a lot to do with achieving a combination of both aiming the drivers for the same axis at the listening position and aiming them both to the same spot in the vehicle to keep FR from each side similar. No hard data on that, just my guess. Sean pretty much hit most of the acoustic reasons in his response, and to be perfectly honest it just makes life easier when trying out aiming and finishing the kicks. The only real downside I can think of is that the midrange and tweeter will be forced into similar axis, but I think the time saved, ease of testing out aiming and other issues like maintaining close center to center spacing will more than compensate for any slight deviation in imaging from either driver being a few degrees out of optimal aiming due to being affixed to each other.

There are better options for the money. And good call on the Crescendos. Avoid them like the plague.

So this position opened up at work. Considering applying for it. It's basically an auditor, which gets me out of the branch dealing with customers and selling/collecting which I'm pretty well over but since I'd still be with the company I would retain my full vesting in 401K/pension and 4 weeks of vacation. Another perk would be getting a company car, '14 Ford Fusion. Downside is a ton of travel, probably gone 60 - 75% of the month but home on weekends. Still though, that's away from home a lot with 2 kids. Other downside is with the lost commission and bonus it would end up being a pay cut in straight pay, but that doesn't account for the benefits of company car and the company paying for all of my gas and lunches which would save me $100 a week right there. That's like a $5200 pay increase all on it's own.

On/Off axis depends on a lot of factors. The xover points of the drivers (ie if you run them into beaming), response of the drivers, obstructions and design of the lower dash, one seat or two seat car, etc. Generally speaking the drivers end up being off-axis, especially in a 2-seat car. One of the requirements for good imaging is to have even FR from both the left and right drivers. Most people recommend to start out by aiming them at the back of the headunit and adjust from there. This way the speakers end up being about the same amount of off-axis to both listeners. All of my kicks end up being quite a bit off-axis for the best imaging. I've never understood the people who aim both kicks at the dome light or the like, the passenger side kick ends up being way more on-axis to the driver than the driver's side kick, and vice versa. If you aim the drivers to both be "on-axis" to the driver, then by default they will be all fucked up to the passenger and the power response will probably not be even at the listening position since they will be aimed differently in the vehicle. Look at pictures of vehicles like Gary Biggs Regal....the kicks were aimed basically straight across the car. As for the same plane, I assume you mean how I have them aligned horizontally? I'm doing this for basically height issues. If I tried to stack them vertically then either the midrange or the tweeter would be tucked way up under the dash and wouldn't have a direct "line of sight" to the listener. So all of the sound would basically be indirect reflections since the direct radiation would just be shot straight into the underside of the dash. Between that and the short wavelengths I can only imagine the comb filtering and other interference issues by having either driver *that* close to a reflective surface. The downside is that the FR in the horizontal plane with this alignment will probably be pretty bad around the crossover region, so aiming is going to pretty important to make sure I'm not shooting that crappiness straight at me Vertical would be better if I had the room, but I don't.

They are actually not the Prime, they are the Punch. But yeah, great dollar per watt at the $250 I paid for them authorized through Crutchfield. Being that I'm a headroom guy, I wanted decent power but also needed small form factor. I was originally going to go with the PPI/Soundstream/Polk/NVX/Hertz class D board amps that are the hotsauce right now, but reading the objective reviews in PASMAG I believe of the 5-channel Punch amp and the PPI or Polk 4-channels, I liked the Punch better. Not much that would be audible except about 1.8db or so more power at 12V and a stronger power supply which allowed for more power bridged or loaded down. Overall the specs for the RF all measured better which lead me to believe it was possibly a better designed board. The RF was also a little more tightly regulated, and with me not upgrading the alt anytime soon I wanted a little more stable power output.