Impious

If you are referring to the home/commerical power cable then no....it is a very bad idea. As said, they have fewer thicker strands of copper which will make them extremely difficult to bend and work with.

Used correctly and in stereo systems that can properly benefit from time alignment generally yes, it will improve imaging and staging. There are some obstacles that it can not and will not overcome, but it will help improve what it is intended to improve upon.....time arrival differences between speakers. Oh, and +1 to getting your sound deadening products from Don @ SDS. If you have questions about how much to purchase, what products fit your needs, where to install it, etc, be sure to ask him as he will point you in the right direction for meeting your needs and what to expect without all of the marketing BS others will give you.

That was probably the reason for the lackluster results

The issue isn't the equations.

It's 25.

I would be interested in the answer to this question as well. Why do you have (by order) after each price?

Time alignment can be a very useful feature depending on your specific installation and your goals. You want to delay the speakers closest to you so that the sound from the speakers arrive at the listening position at the same time. This will improve the stereo's staging and imaging as well as general "coherence". But you need to understand how to properly use it to reap it's benefits. Did you follow the instructions in the manual for setting the time alignment?

No. Kinetik batteries are every bit as good quality as Powermaster. They are both high quality options. I personally prefer Kinetik, and would recommend them every time their product fits the customers need.

And here you are a demonstrating a fundamental lack of reading comprehension. Where did I "down" them? Show me one sentence where I said anything negative about the speakers, their sound or performance. I said that they won't be perfect which is essentially what you (or Navid, if that's who you were quoting) stated, that the limited info that's been provided is essentially useless (which it is, that's indisputable), and lastly when a couple people mentioned that they were "rated' to play lower than most "pro audio" speakers I mentioned the simple fact of physics that other things would have needed to have been compromised....such as efficiency. That's not negativity, that's honesty. As a matter of fact, I distinctly remember saying that if Navid's goals for the drivers aligned with what you are looking for in a driver, they may be a great fit for your needs. None of that is negative, and if you took it as such then you are simply being defensive and not actually reading the statements being made. Since when is Pro Audio synonymous with loud and nothing else? If you're trying to imply that Pro Audio does not equate to high performance low distortion designs, then that is a misconception on your part. Brands such as JBL, B&C and Eminence have been producing extremely high quality pro audio drivers that are not just high efficiency but also very low distortion and extremely well performing drivers for decades. Most people look at various aspects of the driver design outside of simply how loud they get. Maybe all you look for is to get loud and nothing else, but to characterize the entire genre of Pro Audio as sharing that same opinion is simply and indisputably wrong. I'm using one of JBL's high quality, low distortion well performing "Pro Audio" mids in my own system at the moment, the 2118H. And trust me, I consider much more than simply how loud they will get before selecting them (as have thousands of other people, from professionals to amateurs). Don't expect that info to go uncontested.....which is exactly what you apparently expected to happen. Like I said before....if that is the type of thread that you want to have, it's not going to happen here.

The Infrasonic filter is the same thing a subsonic filter (some would argue that infrasonic is a more correct term for it than subsonic). On the T1500 the infrasonic filter is a set frequency, 28hz according to the manual. You can't change this. If you are using a ported enclosure then yes, turn it on. The frequency adjustment is for the lowpass filter. Set it to where ever sounds best. There's no right or wrong, though IMO if you need it set to 110hz to get the sound you want than you need better midbass speakers. The Punch EQ is another term for bass boost. Use at your own risk as use of this knob could drive the amplifier into clipping. Remember a 3db increase requires the amplifier output twice the power. If you have it set about half way, that would be approximately 9db of boost which would require the amplifier output nearly 10x the power around the center frequency.

Only if the modifications are the cause of the problem. Like, they can't say that because your air conditioner goes out its not covered because you have an aftermarket system. This is due to the Magnesum-Moss act. Now, if your alternator, or something to do with the charging system went out, I wouldn't look for it to be covered unless you tried to cover the fact that you had an aftermarket system installed. It's Magnuson-Moss But yes, it won't invalidate the entire warranty which is why I said "portions". I would imagine it would be more difficult getting electrical problems warrantied or anything that could be construed as having been damaged as a result of "excessive vibration" from the stereo system.

I'm not overly familiar with new car warranties, but I would presume that having aftermarket audio equipment installed could void portions of the warranty regardless if it was installed by a professional or not as long as the auto company deems the modifications have to conflicted with the operation of the original equipment or to have been the cause of the problems. And I would say good luck trying to get any $ out of a car audio shop if your warranty is denied because of something they installed, they'd probably just say you changed something after they installed it.

You probably bought the wrong subwoofer for your desired application.

Or if it doesn't, you can just use some y-splitters near the amps to split the single RCA to both amplifiers. What HU do you have that only has a single pair of RCA outputs?

If you haven't read it already, LSDC is a good place to start; "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook," 7th Ed. from Madisound

It's funny that people like to make big claims about a product and then get defensive when everyone doesn't jump head-over-heals about it. If you want to have a discussion about the products where claims such as "made his with all their positives and none of there flaws" go uncontested you should probably find another forum to host the thread, as that's not what this forum is about. On this forum, when BS claims are made they are going to be pointed out and critical questions are going to be asked. This forum is about educating the member base, cutting through the BS and not falling for marketing statements. There are plenty of much more gullible and less critical forums out there upon which the type of discussion you wish to have can be hosted. But don't expect it to happen here.

I'll rip it out and take a look. As for voltage, I've never checked it and am curious as to how I would install a voltmeter in the back (or front/both?) You don't need to install one long term. A DMM would suffice to help you diagnose. As for the power wire.....most of the manual's I've read recommend wiring the constant power wire directly to the battery.

I'm no expert either, but it sounds like you have a lot more learning to do..... I never said you were wrong....I said it wasn't a good practice and that your statement "as it's the tweeter that remained constant so the xover point should too" has no logical reasoning based on acoustics behind it. And no, actually, I wouldn't purchase any of those components. Morel & Dyn are very expensive for what you get, and PG/RF/JL don't offer products that fit my needs. For the most part, there are better options out there. You're right, it is just a "bunch of coils, caps and resistors", but how those caps, coils and resistors are used in the crossover is very important. To say "Some xovers might be designed to tame an output, like the tweeter, because their tweeter might be to harsh, but other then that it doesn't matter." is about as ignorant a statement as can be made. You obviously don't understand most aspects of designing a proper passive crossover, what all can be accomplished with a passive crossover, and all of the considerations or design difference in both the driver and crossover that will affect how different drivers will perform with a given passive crossover.

My guess would be a loose wire that's getting rattled or you're getting enough voltage drop that it's shutting down the HU.

Does the Bazooka amp you were using have a subsonic filter? My guess with the limited info we have would be that you ran the driver too far below tuning and caused overexcursion.

SPL ain't my thing. I'd probably do more damage than good..... Pffft......nevermind, no sense in going now. Just kidding.

Do you have a link to any actual "specs" for these magical speakers other than the frequency range he posted in the one thread I found (I admittedly didn't search over there, that thread just happened to be right at the top on their forum). He doesn't give any specifics as far as how that frequency range was determined. Did he go by -3db points in the response? -10db points? How is the distortion performance within that frequency range? What is the cone break up like? How flat is the response within that bandwidth? Any manufacturer can throw out any "rated" frequency response that they want as there's no set standard for determining that range. Hell, some sub manufacturers rate their 12" subwoofers up to several kilohertz even though they realistically aren't going to be worth a shit in that range due to inductance/cone break up/beaming/etc. A manufacturer could "rate" a tweeter for response down to 20hz since it will technically play that frequency. Without any more clarification on how that frequency bandwidth was determined, or a response and impedance graph, just writing numbers on a forum is pretty useless. Rule #1 of driver design compromises; Hoffman's Iron Law. I would be interested to see how he's rating the frequency response and what the sensitivity of these "pro audio" drivers are, as good low frequency response and high sensitivity are contradictory performance terms. This is the reason, based on the laws of physics that I can promise he did not defy, that most "pro audio" mids do not perform well at low frequencies. Their high sensitivity necessarily excludes them from having good low frequency response. Oh, and I would highly recommend against trying to run any 6.5"+ drivers up to or over (or anywhere close to) 5khz.

Engineering impossibility. Driver design like everything is a series of compromises. The driver is going to have flaws. It's a basic fact of physics. What his goals were and what he gave up to reach those goals I don't know. But that statement basically says he had a perfect driver designed....which I can tell you right now didn't (can't, and won't) happen without knowing anything more about them than that statement. If the goals for his driver align with yours, then it may very well be a great fit for your needs. But it won't be perfect. Sounds like he's laying the marketing on pretty thick.

If I can talk audiolife into to carpooling with me, and if I actually remember the dates....I may go spectate.

It's a little more involved than that. Having an understanding of the electrical engineering involved....what the parts are and why they are there.....is going to be useful and necessary. Understanding why something was damaged is vitally important. The damaged part that's easy to see might have been damaged as a result of something less obvious to see. Ofcourse there are always simple fixes like an old cap that simply went bad. But things aren't necessarily going to be that easy and in some cases some diagnostic work will be required. If you don't understand anything about the operation of an amplifier, then you aren't going to be able to do this. If you want to learn how to repair amplifiers, I would start with learning how amplifiers are designed. If you have to ask what's necessary equipment to repair an amplifier, then you aren't ready to start repairing amplifiers.