Impious

I can't answer why, but the parameters listed on Db-r's page are completely different than those on Sundown's page. I'm not up to speed on all of the possible Nightshade revisions. Anyways, an extra stiff suspension would mean Cms decreased. This decrease in Cms would increase Fs, increase Qts and decrease Vas. That's assuming everything else remained constant. The reason for the super small enclosure suggestions is due to the extremely low Vas in the T/S parameters you are using. That Vas is absurdly small for an 18" driver.

A couple decades ago, yes. With today's technology, no.

Awesome steering wheel cover. Very masculine.

Or the JBL MS8

Per Vance Dickason in The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, the following are measured parameters for a 6.5" Peerless woofer; Pre-Break In (i.e. out of the box) Fs: 49.9hz Qms: 2.11 Qes: 0.44 Qts: 0.37 Vas: 16.8L Post-Break In (12hrs @ 25hz, unspecified power) Fs: 44.5hz Qms: 1.97 Qes: 0.39 Qts: 0.33 Vas: 21.6L However, enclosure requirements/performance will be nearly identical since the Fs/Qts ratio stays virtually the same even though there's a decent % variance in some of the parameters. On that point, published T/S parameters are either taken from a single driver or an average from a sample batch. The actual T/S parameters for two different drivers from the same product line can vary by as much as 10% or more (I believe most manufacturers consider a variation of 10% to be within tolerance), some have a significant difference in T/S parameters if QC is poor. So really, the difference in pre- and post-break in T/S aren't any greater than one might experience between two drivers as a result of production variances. Is "break in" a myth? No, not really. As indicated, you can clearly and easily show a measurable difference in parameters. Is there going to be a readily apparent audible difference? With your typical driver....probably not. The resultant changes in response are going to be virtually inaudible. On a high powered SPL sub with a ridiculously stiff suspension routinely driven to it's mechanical limits, results may be a little different. The variance would probably be enough for a meter to pick up (tenths of a decibel), so it may matter in that particular arena. Do you need to ascribe a particular time period for "break-in"? No. Just plug it in and play it like you normally would. If you really want to break in your driver, playing it at a low level for some arbitrary time period is counterproductive. The best way to effectively break in a driver is to play it free air at a high excursion level for a couple hours. It will be sufficiently "broken in" after that.

If you are trying to use LLP on your door, I personally would attach the foam side to the metal of the door (what that plastic panel attaches to) not to the plastic door panel. You will want to completely seal the door.

Thanks. Do they have website? www.fixmyspeaker.com Though, again, while you might have an operation driver you won't have an original W6v2. Performance could different significantly depending on what parts are used.

I tried several times and couldn't get the wire tight enough to appease me. Also, the Kompression nut was taller than the block itself so when trying to tighten/loosen to the Kompression fitting it would scrape and get caught on the bottom plate, which just added frustration and irritation when already pissed off about not getting the wire seated properly. This was a 1/0ga unfused distro block. Overall it was just a nightmare to use, but I guess the wire seating problem could have been related to the damn nut issue (wire wiggling around when trying to fight with the nut).

Just curious; Since I'm assuming this would be more expensive than the drivers in your current line-up, what benefits does this arrangement provide to the end user? Better thermal performance (with the shorting ring/heatsink & side gaps) and higher motor force than the current drivers? I would foresee a lot of these drivers being inverted EDIT: I also think you should build a higher Q underhung version for us SQ guys Just stick those tall towers on top of the Neo instead of under it and shorten/lower the coil some

I was actually just getting ready to say.....Hope they're better than the Kompression fittings from Knu. Because those suck ass. But from the pictures, looks like the compression fitting is different.

How are people supposed to tell you what you what they think if they don't know anything about it? It looks interesting, but given that's about all we know it's hard to say anything else. I'm guessing with the high motor force we're looking at a low Q ported-only driver similar to the BTL?

Tweeters would be the worst thing to add to the rear.

Why the fascination with BL? It's simply a means to an end. Higher isn't better, lower isn't worse, as long as the overall design goals for the driver were met. XBL itself, as a motor topology, really has nothing to do with frequency response, so the statement "but stays flat inbetwen due to XBL" really doesn't make any sense. You can build low inductance drivers with XBL and you can build low inductance drivers with other topologies or motor designs.

x2 and get a good set of components for the front doors. Then if you ever want to upgrade the rear doors, you still have speakers till you save up enough money for another component set. Appreciate the opinions guys, but I'm a showoffy kind of guy (cmon....aren't most of us?) and I would rather not have to explain why there isn't any sound coming of my back doors! I'm still in high school and plenty of friends'll be in and out of the truck. Do you guys have any experience with RE Audio Coaxials? Cuz I found those for super cheap...I'm hoping it's a deal lol Oh, and if I do go front components only, what's something nice for around 150-60? I would rather better enjoy the sound of my system than compromise on sound because I'm worried about what the people in the back seat might think. And like I said, if you absolutely feel you need something back there, keep the stock speakers back there and spend your money up front, where it actually matters. As for options; Alpine Type R Image Dynamics CTX65CS JBL P650C The SSA store also has Bravox Components and Bravox Coaxials available in that price range.

Either ditch the rear speakers all together, or if you feel you absolutely must have rear speakers keep the stock speakers back there and spend your entire speaker budget on the front speakers.

I'm not even sure why you would try to salvage the basket. By the time you replace the motor and softparts, you might as well just buy a new driver. The basket may limit their ability to fit different parts based on dimensions, clearances and attachment to the motor. If you are going to go to the length of having them replace the motor as well as softparts, just buy a new driver. The basket is a $20 part anyways. Even if they could use the JL basket, by the time you paid for shipping both ways, new softparts and motor, you would probably be money ahead to just buy a Fi driver. I believe if you send the driver to JL they can recone it for you, but it's normally very expensive. And they don't sell any recone kits because I believe when they recone a driver they simply stick it back on the assembly line, have the softparts put in then send it back to you. It's normally around half of MSRP to have JL recone a driver, so you'd probably be looking at $250-$300. Unless you are willing to spend the $, you probably have nothing but a paperweight on your hands. What exactly is wrong with your W6v2? Blown voice coil? Torn surround or spider?

I don't know that JL has ever offered the 12w6 in dual 2ohm? The manual for the original (discontinued) W6 series only lists dual 6ohm, and the new W6v2 is only available in dual 4ohm. Anyways, to answer your question; No other company is going to stock a direct replacement with original parts for the drivers. The original W6 series used "off-the-shelf" parts, meaning it would be possible for a company to use identical parts to build a recone kit that is identical to the original parts. In fact, SPL (the brand) built their JWS series, which are clones of the original W6 series, for this reason....the parts are off the shelf and easily accessible. The newer W6v2 does not use all "off the shelf" parts, so another company would not be able to provide an recone kit that is identical to the original parts. Depending on the different driver dimensions (voice coil diameter, gap width, spider landing diameter, etc), another company such as Fi might be able to recone the driver for you which would give you an operational subwoofer......however unless they were able to meet all of JL's original parts in terms of dimensions and various performance/weight aspects, you will end up with a subwoofer that does not have the same performance as a stock W6v2, and it will not have the patented features of a stock W6v2.

Did you have a particular question or concern we could help you with?

Just plug it in and play it like you normally would. Speakers do not need a dedicated "break-in" time. A couple minutes of hard play will sufficiently loosen the suspension.

I would continue to troubleshoot the noise issue. The Maxxlink is at best a bandaid, not a fix for the issue. You need to find the actual cause and eliminate it if possible, and then decide whether or not you want to use the Maxxlink. Have you followed the Noise Troubleshooting Guide that is a sticky here on the forum?

The irony here is that most "internet" amplifier companies are using fairly stock OEM'd products from one of the buildhouses. Which means you are, almost literally, simply paying for them to put their name on it. Many of the mainstream companies have their own unique products designed rather than OEM'ing from a buildhouse. So you are paying for their engineers and/or engineering costs, research and development, and other costs associated with having a unique product designed and manufactured.

I'm assuming it's 200w/ch @ 4ohm given the name......is the power supply too weak to support more power at lower impedances? Or another design constraint such as current capabilities on the output transistors?

Depends on if the 9887 will bandpass the subwoofer or not, most of them do not. You might need the SSF if you are using your subwoofer in a ported enclosure.....otherwise you wouldn't need to use it.

I would like to

I suggested sealed because I presumed part of the cause behind thermally overpowering the driver was that the low Q resulted in a "thin" type of midbass sound, which he attempted to compensate for by applying more power. In which case, sealing the driver and getting better response might help solve some of the problem, and he seemed to enjoy the sound of the Aura's in the sealed enclosure. IMO, that sounds like a pretty reasonable option for him considering he already has the pods built that he essentially just needs to close off the backside of to create a sealed enclosure for the drivers.