Impious

The weather up here really sucks ass, doesn't it? I hate seeing build logs in the dead of winter from the bastards living down south who are still enjoying 60* days while I'm out shoveling snow. Anyways.....I vote now! Last time I put my stereo off until spring, I spent the entire winter kicking myself in the ass.

All you'll need for the tweeter location is a free afternoon, some velcro and a beer Just make sure you don't xover the tweeters too low.....or tweeters go poof. Also if going active, it can be beneficial to put a cap with a low xover frequency in line with the tweeter to save from possible damage as a result of turn on/off pop or other mishaps.

I'd say that sounds like a pretty good plan. Get your feet a little wet on this side of things with a simple active setup, then progress from there. Imaging won't be great from the doors without TA and such, but with good speaker selection it should still blow stock out of the water. Is this going in that S10 you had or are you rocking a different daily driver now?

I have never seen a single review that actually demonstrated the SAZ1500 (or any other Sundown amp) is underrated. If there is one, I'd be interested in seeing it. That said; That amplifier would still be a good match for your subwoofers (assuming your Q's are D1). The difference between 1500w and 2000w would be completely inaudible, so don't worry about it.

Someone should tell that to all of those dipole crazies.

What are you trying to "fix" that you want the bass/treble controls? Or was it just curiosity of why they weren't there? Helpful hint when dealing w/ EQ's: They should primarily be used to cut bands, not boost bands. And boosting an EQ band can potentially introduce clipping. For example, if you turn 63hz up by 3db, it will require the amplifier now output 2x the power at 63hz.

ahh ok, thats good to know, i am currently using a distribution block that goes from my knu 1/0 to 4 gauge, but thats cause my amp right now is only an AQ1200D, i plan on just running the 1/0 straight to the amp when i get a bigger amp and then run a 4 gauge run to my mids/highs amp. right now my main power fuse is 300 amps, so if i decide to go with the AQ2200D i should get a 200A fuse for it? Yes, you would want to use the fuse size recommended by AQ or Sundown in the main power line fuse holder. One fuse located as close to the battery as possible is all that is needed in his situation.

It really depends on what level of sound quality you are trying to achieve. If you're just trying to go for clean 'n clear sound without concern for imaging/staging/etc, a simple quality comp setup in the doors ran passive would more than suffice. Really no need for all of the custom speaker locations and multiple amplifiers in that type of setup. It would certainly be a nice upgrade over stock in performance without breaking the bank or taking half a decade to install, setup and tune. If you are looking for something that not only sounds "clean" but also stages and images well......then you're going to need the more advanced processing if you plan to use midrange and midbass speakers that A-pillar/door mounted as you'll need, at minimum, time alignment. Or you can get fancy with kickpanels to equalize pathlengths, etc. And really, if you want to go the full-out SQ with active crossovers, major EQ work and time alignment and you aren't very familiar with the inner-workings of a "true" SQ setup.....you'd better have someone there who can help you in person get everything setup and tuned properly, or you'll end up with pretty bad results. Despite the e-popularity, these types of systems are pretty difficult to setup with good results, and a 3-way frontstage of that caliber would be a nightmare for a SQ novice to tackle on their own. So really, first you need to decide how hardcore you want to get with it

No, they do not come with a fuse/fuse holder. The main fuse at the battery will be sufficient to protect the amplifier. Just select the fuse size based on the amplifier's requirements rather than the wire gauge. No need to add another fuse holder before the amp.....it won't do anything the main fuse won't or can't do. EDIT: That's assuming you aren't using a distribution block, and that the power wire will run straight from the battery to the amplifier. If you're using a distro block, you can fuse the amplifier there.

Tried calling Alpine? I think that's your best bet, to make sure the HU isn't defective. Apparently there's either a setting or a malfunction that is keeping the MEQ from turning on, which from my understanding from the manual is not allowing you access to the bass/treble controls.

Sent you a PM

If you're bored this weekend, I plan on getting them wrapped and start the last of the 'glassing

Most people don't realize that you can do it with any DVC driver. Although if you have a driver specifically designed to be used with RDO like the Atlas, I think overall results will probably be a little better.

Yes, terribly. But I'd venture a guess that the setups that have speakers located in those locations probably aren't too worried about imaging......

I've never had good luck forward firing in a sedan, unless you are actually sealing off the drivers at the rear seat. But if you have enough room, just try the enclosure in different positions and see what you like best.

Does the MEQ actually turn on when you try to turn it on?

Any way to edit the latest comments on the side bar? I just think this one ends at a bad spot: Other than that....looks great!

From the MANUAL: 1 Press Rotary encoder (AUDIO) repeatedly to choose the desired mode. Each press changes the mode as follows: SUBWOOFER*1 -> BASS*2 -> TREBLE*2-> BALANCE -> FADER*3 -> DEFEAT -> VOLUME -> SUBWOOFER*1 *1 When the subwoofer mode is set to OFF, its level cannot be adjusted. *2 When the MultEQ is set to OFF, its level cannot be adjusted. *3 If you set the 4.2ch/2.2ch switch (pages 40 to 42) to 2.2ch, you cannot adjust the FADER mode.

I'd sell ya my DVA-9860/H701 combo

10*log(1000/300) = 5.2db Ofcourse that doesn't take things like power compression and other real-world issues into account, so don't expect a full 5db increase.

Someone who understands the physics involved would be more than capable of answering your questions without necessarily having to have built any (or 3) themselves. The physics doesn't change and results can be predicted pretty easily if the individual is competent. The only thing that will change is the subjective perception of the "sound" and personal preference which is going to be different from person to person so any answer you receive to that end will essentially be meaningless. And on the reverse side, someone could have built a dozen bandpass enclosures themselves without having the slightest clue of what is actually going on and why. Those responses would be essentially meaningless as well. Your first question lends itself to being subjective. What one finds works for them may not be what works for you or me. It depends on the goals of the individual and the system. So you want people to come in and give you a consensus on a subjective topic? Good luck with that. Personally I'd rather have the objective information from someone who actually understands the concept rather than rely on someone with an arbitrary number of feathers in their cap who may or may not have an actual understanding of the topic, but who can easily give a quick (but useless) subjective opinion of what "worked for them". It sounds to me like it's time for you to pick up a good book on enclosure design so that you can answer the objective questions yourself, which will allow you to arrive at the subjective answer of what works best for you.

Just for an example; If you have a driver with an Re of .7ohm and an Le of 2mH, you'd end up with an Fc of 56hz. It's the amount of wire in the gap. A larger diameter coil is going to necessarily have more wire in the gap (all else equal) Certainly it's possible to reduce the inductance by using less wire or other tricks to lower inductance. But as I said; it could become an issue if it wasn't addressed.

Like I explained in your other thread.....all of those extra speakers just make things worse, not better. You would be better off with one set of speakers per channel rather than trying to fill every hole with a speaker on top of adding more.

Inductance could easily become another issue. I don't really know how much SPL guys look at the inductance of a coil, but if the inductance is high enough (which will increase as coil diameter increases) it will negatively affect the performance of the driver within the frequency band SPL'ers use. With great coil size, comes great inductance. (Anyone catch the Spiderman thing I had going on there?)