Impious

Almost there Got them trimmed down and the mounting holes opened up and sanded down. I haven't started working on finishing off the appearance yet.....that's a next spring goal. Right now my aim is just to get them in the vehicle and playing before winter. Supposed to be 60* tomorrow, hopefully it will stay light and warm enough I can get them finished off and installed this week. Still need to add some treatments to the interior of the kickpanel, drill mounting holes, run speaker wire and then wire everything up. So I've got a few more hours of work before they start singing.......

That's the best I got......

Just make sure you are looking into the CD1eV3 and not the CD1eV2 (or lower). The difference is the CD1eV3 uses an actual compression driver, the previous versions had used a cheap piezo driver. Beyond that, I really don't know a whole lot about the new CD1eV3's as they are newer and not a lot of info is on the website about them. Rumor has it they are just a minor step below the previous CD1Pro's, which if true would make them fairly decent horns. The minibodies usually can't be crossed quite as low as the full size equivalents, but I don't think the CD1eV3's were meant to be crossed below 1200hz regardless, which is typically the area the minibodies are crossed over at anyways (the higher level full bodies are usually pretty good down to 800hz or so). As for power......you won't need that much. There's a difference between power handling, and what your ears can handle I don't know the efficiency of the CD1eV3's, but if they are comparable to the older CD1Pro's then their sensitivity would be in the neighborhood of 105db. If you put a true 75w to a 105db sensitive HLCD, the output would theoretically be ~124db. This doesn't sound like a lot when you're listening to 150db+ of subbass.....but the ear is much more sensitive at the frequency range HLCD's play. 124db would be enough to deafen you, literally. That said; there is nothing wrong with using an amplifier rated at 125w.....but don't expect to need to use anywhere close to all of that power. I've had Illusion Audio CH-1 and Image Dynamics CD2Neo's in my car. If you look around used, you can normally find the CD2's (with various diaphragms) for pretty fair prices.

LOL......you are worried about HLCD's not sounding good, but had yourself talked into a set of bullet tweeters? They mount under the dash for a couple of reasons......first, mounting them "on axis" would rip your head off. Second, they use the lower portion of the dash as sort of an extension of the horn itself.....the sound sort of "rolls" up the dash. Third....they just flat out would be difficult to mount anywhere else I've had two different sets of horns in my car.

RIP

It's amazing how different the weather can be just 80 miles away. I'm glad it's you and not me! It's bloody cold here, but no white shit yet.

That's a pretty ass-backwards philosophy as it's infinitely easier to achieve good sound in a house than a car. You're half-assing the easier of the two. The best solution is probably to just unplug the damn subwoofer and stop worrying about it. You would be better served with actual stereo sound without subbass than to have only the right channel playing but with subbass.

WHAT?? are you kidding me? lol the sub is THE thing that will get hurt by clipping. when you clip, the sub actually moves less and has a bit of a pause at each peak. so there is less air being forced through the voice coil and it overheats. just look at a sign wave, that wave is exactly what a speaker is doing. if there is a flat part, the speaker is holding at that point. The potential for damage is caused by the increased power being delivered to the driver by the amplifier, not because the subwoofer "stops" moving at the peaks. With a 30hz signal, the driver is still moving back and forth 30 times per second. Even if the driver "holds" at the peak of the signal, the heat dissipation would increase by about 1% (the average speaker wastes about 99% of it's input power as heat to begin with), then it would travel back in the opposite direction where it would be cooled again, then hold where it's heat dissipation increases by 1%, then it would travel back in the opposite direction and be cooled it. It would do this 30 times per second. That's still a significant amount of cooling going on and very minimal additional heat dissipation, to the point where it's inconsequential. The problem is power, not signal shape. And I believe his point is that clipping doesn't damage speakers, excessive power as a result of clipping is what becomes damaging. If the clipped signal isn't clipped severely enough to overdrive the speaker, or the average power level of the clipped signal is within the thermal and mechanical limits of the driver.......then nothing is going to be damaged.

The main speakers are places like I would do with normal left and right. It sounds good. But then the subwoofer moves the image with not playing only low frequencies. It's a 4ohm, very cheap shit but gets the job done. It doesn't matter where they are sitting. If they are both connected to only the right channel, then you only have the right channel playing......which is not stereo sound, which means your imaging is going to be nonexisent by default as "imaging" requires more than one source signal (i.e. left and right). The simple solution here is to buy a plate amp or another amplifier to power your subwoofer. It may not be what you want to do, but it is what you need to do. And if you think stereo source material being played through only the right channel still "sounds good".....I think you need a major correction to your definition of what "sounds good".

Wait.....so, you have both main speakers on only the right channel, your subwoofer on the left channel......and are complaining about the subwoofer messing up the imaging? What subwoofer are you using?

Just an FYI, those are good midrange speakers but they are strictly midrange speakers. They have .5mm excursion.....they won't do anything in the midbass.....and by anything, I mean anything. They would have to be used with dedicated midbass speakers. But in a high efficiency 3-way setup.....yeah, those are great speakers. As for the OP.....you may not like the way Sean provides the information.....but nothing he has said is wrong. The ultimate solution to your problem would be a good set of high output large diameter mids and a pair of good HLCD. I don't know why those shitty "bullet tweeters" have caught on with the SPL crowd, but that is the worst implementation ever. All their widespread use proves is that SPL'ers have a loud stereo but don't really understand the first thing about acoustics in general. You'll end up toasting a pair of normal dome tweeters. Hell, really, those 4 mids you have now would probably do you fine with a set of good HLCD for reaching your goals.

What type of EQ features do you need? What are you trying to fix? Do you want/need parametric or graphic? How many bands and what center frequencies? EQ is a very general and generic term. Not all EQ's are created equal. You need an EQ that will fit your needs and goals, which is more specific than just asking for an "EQ".

Wasn't as cold as I'd feared....got the 2nd layer on the driver's side. No pics today.....since it looks exactly the same, just a little thicker Probably throw 1 more layer on the larger areas Thu or Fri for a little extra strength then call it good!

Yup, it's an Oldsmobile. They'll be ran passive through the winter because I'm lazy and don't want to run more speaker wire You don't want to learn the art of fiberglassing from me

Thanks for the kind words I must say, I was a little worried about how the shaping would turn out with having the three speaker rings and oddly shaped mold to contend with. But with G'Don's help wrapping them, they really turned out pretty smooth. The couple trouble areas we did have smoothed out well with the layers.

Pics, because it did happen.

Introduction http://www.soundsolu...Components.html http://bravoxaudio.com/ Bravox is a newer name to SSA, being recently just added to the store a few months back, so some of you may be relatively unfamiliar with the brand. According to the website, Bravox is a Brazilian company that was founded in 1953. From everything I could find they perform the full range of services in house, from engineering and design to driver construction. In this day and age of same-product different-name electronics, it's nice to see a company that still completely designs and produces their own unique products. A few weeks back I purchased the Bravox CS60-CF component set, linked above, from the SSA store. At $445 I would consider these speakers to be in the middle of the price range.....more expensive than entry level products but not ultra-high end pricing either. The speakers arrived on my doorstep from the SSA store right at about a week after ordering, and as always the communication was great from the website and SSA staff. Equipment The CS60CF component set consists of 6.5" mids and 1" tweeters, and the packaging includes installation hardware, speaker wire and grills. The mids are true 6.5" drivers, measuring exactly 6.5" from edge to edge. They feature a carbon fiber cone, butyl rubber surround and a sturdy cast frame with venting under the spider, which is a nice feature to see on a midwoofer as it aids in voice coil cooling and provides an additional escape path for air. The mids also feature a phase plug, which can serve dual purposes; it can aid in extending and smoothing the high frequency response by reducing cancellation and, when constructed of a heat-conducting metal, they can improve the driver's heat dissipation capabilities. The phase plug is coated so I can't tell the exact material, but it does have the feel of being a solid metal. Terminals are gold plated spade and the tinsel leads are fairly thick for being a midwoofer. The mid does not have a pole vent, and it's worth noting it also does not have a gasket. I'm guessing the lack of gasket is because of the grill-mounting ring that is to be installed behind the speaker. It's also nice that the company provides T/S parameters for the midwoofer, as it's fairly rare for a company in car audio to provide those. With it's high Qts and moderate Vas it's apparent these 6.5" speakers were designed with the car environment in mind as results will be very close to optimal in a car door, which functions closely to an infinite baffle alignment. The tweeters are 1" silk domes with ferrofluid cooling. The housing is plastic and there is about 6" of lead wires attached for direct connection to the speaker wire rather than any type of terminal. The packaging includes angle mount and flush mount options. Crossovers are reasonably sized and feature blue polycarbonate plastic cases with venting on each side, a 0db and -3db switch and gold plated terminals. The manual states this component sets uses a 4th order acoustical crossover slope. Interesting to note their description of the crossover there. They state it's an acoustic slope, not an electric slope. The difference normally being the acoustic slope is the sum of the driver's response and the crossover, whereas an electric slope is the effect of the crossover only. The acoustic slope is actually a little more useful to know as it tells you what the response of the actual driver will be with the crossover, and not just what the crossover is doing to the signal. When most people are designing a passive crossover, they are aiming for a certain acoustic slope not a certain electrical slope. The electrical slope is essentially just a means to an end, not the end itself. The manual does not list a crossover frequency, but "LHP 3.5" is molded into the crossover. I'm wondering if maybe that means the low and high pass frequency is 3.5khz. The installation materials included with the set is just about everything you would need to install the speakers; speaker wire, eight screws, four butt connectors for the tweeters, twelve spade terminals for connecting wires to the crossovers, and four female terminals that are supposed to be for connecting to the midwoofer. The manual is semi-informative. The same manual is used for all but 1 of the component sets and gives a brief introduction to Bravox, some bullet points about the features of the products, T/S parameters for the different sets and a quick wiring tutorial. I would like to see it include a little more detail and possibly some suggestions on proper setup techniques and installation considerations for informational/educational purposes, but maybe that's just me. Pictures Who doesn't like pictures?

Boobs.

Just to show you how out of the loop I am.....why is it a big deal that you posted the URL?

What is the actual URL?

What in the hell are are you guys talking about?

Gettin' close Drivers kick has 2 layers of 'glass laid down, passenger side has one layer of 'glass with hopes of adding the 2nd layer tomorrow. Have I mentioned before that I hate fiberglassing?

Some funny shit going on there.

Probably because you are controlling a 2500lbs missile traveling at 88 feet per second with hundreds of innocent bystanders surrounding you. Hence the reason it's illegal in many municipalities to have an active video monitor in view of the driver while the vehicle is in motion. Also the reason most manufacturers have a safety feature requiring the vehicle be in park or the e-brake engaged for the monitor to display videos.

Twice as loud = 10dB increase (as far as I know) Twice the power = 3dB increase Hearing threshold = ~1dB 3db is actually twice the acoustic power, which is technically "twice as loud". Human hearing is just very insensitive, so it takes a 6db-10db difference (depending on frequency, etc) for our ears to recognize it as being double the volume or twice as loud.