Impious

Or you could go with the B&C DE500 with the ID horn bodies and have the equivalent of the ID CD2Neo's. They are a little pricier though at around $170/driver.

Keep in mind that unless you either get a Memphis recone, or identical parts are you......you might end up with a working subwoofer, you won't end up with a Memphis M3

Have you tried contacting Memphis? That'd be a good place to start.

What you are looking for has less to do with the number of speakers and more to do with the installation and tuning, and some to do with speaker selection and personal preference. Short story is that it's entire possibly for you to have worse results with an active 3-way using those Seleniums than sticking with the Morel's you have now. You're drawing an illogical conclusion that because you liked the Morel 3-way better than the 2-way in the particular scenario in which you listened to them, that any 3-way will be better than a 2-way......there's far more to it, it's not that simplistic. Regardless, even if you wanted to move to a 3-way that Selenium is still not the way to go about doing it.

I still don't see the point in using a 6" in that 3-way. You would do yourself well to look at something more capable of wideband performance than a 6". And I don't care what car was in CA&E.....midbass under the front seats is a very poor location.

First, no one is going to be able to tell you the answer to where to set the crossover points over the internet. I could throw out some arbitrary frequencies, but they wouldn't do you any real good. It's going to depend on the limitations of the Selenium (which we weren't even given a model # for in your post) and various other factors. However, I don't really see the point in running 3-way with a 6" midbass, 6" midrange and a tweeter. It pretty much defeats the purpose of using a 3-way set. One of the advantages of 3-way is to allow the majority of the midrange to come from a single location.....the midrange. With using a 6" midrange, you are going to be restricted to a fairly low crossover point (for a 3-way setup)......you'll get some advantage in have more control over phase relationships, but not the full benefit of going 3-way. IMO you need to rethink your plan. And no offense.....but if you have to ask someone else to tell you what crossover points to use, you probably aren't ready for a 3-way active frontstage.

I'm not sure of the infatuation with having 4V preamp outputs.....but other than that, there's really not much for us to go on here considering you didn't even give us model #'s. Either HU should do you fine. Choose whichever has the most features that fit your needs.

Not true OP: Take the ground from your harness and make your own ground, 99% of the time factory grounds are crap. I've always heard the same thing as well, is this another myth? I've been running my rca's on the other side of the car from the power wire for years now after reading that, and only cross them at a 90 degree angle if needed. It's a myth.

So....can you just lower the level of the AA's that way they don't run out of steam so early? Or do they simply not have enough output for you when you reach their limits? How to "fix" it depends on what the actual problem is. Is it possible you're clipping the 100.4? Need more details.

This is what I want. Then a good start would be researching my suggestions

For most daily driver systems there really isn't any point. It makes some people feel like they have a bigger dingaling I suppose, and it's "cooler" to say you have 2500w instead of 2kw. In SPL systems it makes sense to pump every last watt through the system as .1db could be the difference between 1st and 2nd. But for daily systems......no.

No, "break in" has absolutely nothing at all to do with the damage. What you did was apparently overpower the driver. "Break in" is never necessary. Maintaining control of the power you are delivering to the subwoofer, however, is always necessary. And yes, only a recone will fix it.

A pair of good used CD2's can usually be scored for fair prices and are the highest efficiency of the lot. Be careful with CD1e's.....the new v3 version linked above to their website use actual compression drivers, though I don't know much more about them, but the prior models used cheap piezo drivers and aren't true HLCD. I really liked my Illusion Audio CH1's, but they are hard to find and difficult to work with as they had metal horn bodies.

While I can't say whether or not a single comp set will "keep up" to your level, I've always kind of thought the way SPL guys go about it is a bit idiotic. HLCD + large midbass would be the way to go, IMO. Much more simplistic setup, and one that actually possesses the acoustic capabilities of maintaining good, accurate sound at the same time. Imagine the possibilities of an SPL vehicle that actually imaged well and sounded good from 80hz and up! (when you weren't playing the system at 150db, as nothing will sound "good" at that output level) For one, HLCD are capable of getting loud enough to literally deafen you. Literally, deafen you. If you think 150db of subbass is loud, consider what ~130db of midrange would sound like (if you don't know the difference in your hearing's sensitivity between subbass and midrange, look up the Equal Loudness Curve). And you'd only need ~50wpc to do it. So from about 800hz and up (for a non-minibodied horn), you won't have to worry about being "drowned out" as the HLCD should cause you physical pain long before you had any problems from the subwoofers. Now let's look at the midwoofer. You currently have a trio of 6.5" drivers. The average 6.5" driver is going to have an Sd of around 135cm^2 from what I've seen. If we replaced the trio of 6.5's with a single 10" midbass (Sd ~345cm^2 for the 10" drivers without large subwoofer-type surrounds), you'd only lose about 15% in cone area, which for a given excursion level is a difference of only 1.4db......or just barely in the realm of noticeable audibility. There are some other things to consider, like the possibility of the 10" midbass having a larger Xmax increasing output potential in the midbass region and the possibility of lower power compression, etc. But if we just keep everything equal for the sake of discussion, the realistic difference between a single 10" midbass and a trio of 6.5" drivers is going to be almost negligible. Chances are pretty good that at the output levels you're describing, you won't notice a difference. So there you have it. A pretty simple 4 speaker system that would be more than adequate for your output needs and actually be able to retain some semblance of good sound at lower SPL levels with the right driver selection. No, I've not built a 150db setup because SPL just doesn't interest me all that much. And no, I don't any pictures or videos to show you because for whatever reason most SPL guys don't pursue this route (my guess would be first, it's not as impressive to open a door and see 2 speakers instead of 16 [since horns aren't very visible] and two, it's a simple case of "monkey see monkey do"). But that doesn't negate anything I've said in my post. Pictures might comfort you more than numbers, but the numbers aren't wrong just because they aren't accompanied by pretty pictures. If you have a way of disputing the numbers, I'd be much more interested in that than seeing pictures. Oh.....I do kinda have one example. RC's GN had old school horns under the dash, 12" mids in the rear quarters and a pair of 15" subs at the rear seats....it is said to have been able to do over 135db full range, which is completely different than 135db in the subbass region. A true, consistent 130db in the midrange would get very painful very quickly, and much exposure would leave you with permanent hearing damage.

They sound good. Natural sound and they seem very good at revealing low level details. Very strong midbass until my processor took it away to deal with a huge resonance I had from the mounting location. I really just haven't had time to do the same level of critical listening as I did on the CS60CF set.

Seriously though.....I've asked several times, but have yet to get a direct response to this question by anybody in the Blues camp. I'm seriously interested in hearing the answer to why this is, as several different people have come in here who are quite obviously supporters of Blues who are up-in-arms that we are over here saying blasphemous things about Blues speakers, when we (the main posters in this thread; i.e. myself and M5) haven't commented about the sound of the speakers themselves at all, other than saying we aren't going to accept opinions about performance as facts.

For someone so keen on using the term "rational", you seem to not understand it's definition. Which line of argument seems most rational to you? Increasing understanding of an object via methods that are reliable, repeatable, comparable and objective in nature.Increasing understanding of an object via reliance upon opinions and experiences which are not reliable, are not repeatable, can not be used to make comparisons, and are subjective in nature and hence will vary from person to person.Are you seriously trying to tell us that #2 is the more rational, logical means by which to operate? We would still be living in the dark ages if science hadn't developed a logical, rational method by which to discover facts about our world. Why on earth is a method that has allowed us to discover the secrets of the universe and taken us from the first electric grid to the Information Age in barely 100 years suddenly not sufficient to describe the operation of a loudspeaker? And why is it that anyone who isn't absolutely awestruck by the subjective opinions made about Blues speakers and who aren't willing to accept them hook, line and sinker are labeled a "hater" by everyone in the Blues camp? I bet if you go through this entire 10 page thread, you could count the number of comments negative towards Blues on one hand.....and those comments were not made by the main people contributing to this thread in favor of objective information and against subjective information. So now we're "haters" if we don't accept subjective opinions as God's written word and suggest that objective measurements are more useful? Simply stating that subjective opinions are exactly that, subjective, and as a result utterly meaningless is not saying that Blues speakers sound bad. I don't recall anyone who hasn't heard the speakers making one single comment about their sound. If there is a post in this thread, it would have to be a single post. For the most part the later 5 pages has been a discussion of the differing benefits of objective versus subjective information.....that is, until a Blues supporter hops in, takes our posts out of contexts, complains about us "haters" not having heard the speakers and therefore we can't say they sound bad, so we need to stop saying they sound bad.....even though no one had even attempted to comment on their sound.......then we go back in a circle with said supporter about the differing benefits of objective versus subjective information.....then another Blues supports hops in, takes our posts out of contexts, complains about us "haters" not having heard the speakers and therefore we can't say they sound bad, so we need to stop saying they sound bad.....even though no one had even attempted to comment on their sound.......then we go back in a circle with said supporter about the differing benefits of objective versus subjective information.....Are we noticing a trend yet? If you want to identify what has been the most irrational part of this thread....it would undoubtedly and without question be the responses made by the Blues supporters. The amount of defensive and confrontational posts coming from that end of the conversation, along with the amount of comments being taken completely out-of-context, simply because we aren't impressed by subjective opinions is absolutely astonishing, and quite frankly, laughable. And really, the T/S parameter thing can be dropped. It was an off-hand comment made to briefly display the value of objective information as those are by far and away the most widely used objective information for loudspeakers. It really wasn't a central or even main point to the discussion......yet for some reason, the Blues guys keep circling back to it. The main point to the discussion is why subjective opinions aren't useful for telling anybody anything about the speakers performance. But if understanding the value of objective measurements and a lack of willingness to accept subjective opinions as facts makes me a hater, then fine....I'll gladly be a hater.

Presumably, yes.

I think the part I bolded in red was a typo? Like helotaxi said, the subwoofer being wired in series won't have anything at all to do with it being underpowered. And the difference between the amplifier's 2ohm power output and 1ohm power output is completely negligible and inaudible. Also as helotaxi pointed out, you'll actually get slightly better performance out of each subwoofer if you purchase a 2nd dual 1ohm BL and run 2 subwoofers. In theory, adding a 2nd driver without increasing power would yield a 3db gain (keeping the alignment the same as well).....but you are probably experiencing fairly signficiant power compression with 1800w on a single driver. Adding a second will decrease the power to each subwoofer which will decrease power compression, which is a good thing. It would be possible for you to actually increase peak output by more than 3db due to the decrease in power compression, which robs the driver of output for a given amount of power input.

Have you ever hit ice before? Do you understand what happens when your tires hit ice? From the way you posted, it doesn't seem like this is the case. When my tires hit the ice, they began to spin. Now, keep in mind that my tires are spinning. So when I hit dry pavement, and my traction returned, my car accelerated uncontrollably. This is what sent me over the curb and into a light pole. Living in NE IN and driving in adverse weather my entire life, I can pretty much tell you that is NOT what happens when you hit ice unless you kept your foot to the floor the entire time. I don't know what happened, but from driving on ice literally hundreds and hundreds of times.....I've never in my life experienced what you are describing.

Do you have to use an amp? No, it's not required. But if nothing else, I'd try to talk them into atleast a small 50w x 2 amp for the comps, that or save some money and go with coaxials for all 4 speakers instead. For example, here is a US Acoustics on ebay for $25+shipping. I've not dealt with that seller before, but he's been selling refurb'd US Acoustics on ebay for years.

Like I said, I missed that you said you have the "Constant Power" amp. So yes, at 2ohm your amplifier is outputting 1800w to the subwoofer. At 1ohm the 1800w will be divided equally between the subwoofers.

Don't mind me.....just sleeping at the wheel. I missed he said he had the Constant Power amps Then yes, I fucked up. Your sub is getting the 1500w (1800w if you go by the birthsheet) right now, with half of that going to each coil. Wired to 1ohm, each sub would receive 750w (900w if you go by the birthsheet)

What? No. It's receiving 100% of the amplifiers 2ohm power output (assuming you have the gain set correctly), which is probably 900w @ 2ohm. Ohms law. You should review these before you ask anymore questions. Read Me 1 Read Me 2

If your current sub is wired to 2ohm, then it's not getting 1800w, it would be receiving half of that. And yes, if you wire two subs of the same impedance together they will each receive half of the power. so what you are saying is that its receiving the 1800 total (900 each voice coil)?? No, your current sub is not. It is receiving 900w (based on your 1800w figure), with each voice coil receiving half of that. So 450w to each voice coil, 900w total to the sub. When you get a 2nd sub and wire to 1ohm, then each subwoofer will receive 900w, 1800w total to the pair. The amplifier outputs power based on the final impedance of the connected load. 2ohm final load (two 1ohm coils in series) equals 2ohm power output (around 900w @ 2ohm based on 1800w @ 1ohm). That power is then divided equally to each individual load (in this case with 1 subwoofer, each voice coil, since each voice coil is the same impedance).