rushnrun

nobody's gonna carpet the inside of the box.... not that I'm aware of.. normally if you're putting neons in a box you want the inside painted white.

looking good for a first build... truck are almost always louder with a window cracked or a door open.... Honestly I've never seen one that likes to be sealed up.. you're gonna be deaf in your right ear with that port right there....

9 cubes, midwestspl naionals i put up a record high for me a 156.2 and a 138 extreme run street beat 30sec. average 13 outside the car. WHat meter and what mic placement... I know you can have doors open... I read through the midwestspl rule book and didn't see mic placement anywhere...

ahhh... makes me think back to earlier this week.... had a kid tell me that there's no way that my truck is louder than his 2-12" XTR pros and 1200 watt amp in his camaro.... he said this with knowing whats I have in my truck..... said all my gear was junk and I just think it's loud... I guess.. 150db at 25hz aint loud...

the concept woofers were good subs back in the day. I still have several of the CPT woofers (the step down from the csp) the only issue I've ever had with the old school Concept woofers is the tensil leads snapping at high excursion (I ran 5k on their 1000 watt rated woofer).. the leads would break right off the push terminal where they're soldered... solder them back on and your good to go... I haven't touched a csp since 02... I don't think they were produced much longer than the 02-03 era...

Looking Better.. Now you just need more Power!

looks like a decent 1500-2000 watt build... kinda low mosfet count... I don't know amps that well I just know what I look at... that's the same build as my swiss sdx2000a Different board but same type of layout and component quantity... swiss has more mosfets... does 2200ish...

d1 or d2 sub? I assume a D2 if you're running it on a receiver..? I've got a New in box Massive p1000.1 $185 shipped to ya.. does roughly 1200watts at one ohm (I run the P1500.1's in my comp truck)

Not stealing your thread... but... I'll add some extra data from My old test from last year or whenever... Amp_____________V*A produced______V*A Consumed__Output_______Input__________eff____Calculated ohm Sundown SAZ3000D_77.0v 31.0A____ 13.10v 219.5A_ 2387_________2875___________83%____2.48ohm Massive P-3000D____91.0v 37.8A____ 12.00v 360.0A_3440_________4320___________79.6%___2.41ohm And the sundown wired down to lower ohms... .8 resting Sundown SAZ3000D_72.0v 48.0A____ 12.40v 378.0A_3456_________4687___________73.7%____1.5ohm ***the p3000 should have been tested at this ohm... I run mine daily at a 1 ohm load.. I may test them later.. The P3000 uses the same board but has different componets/build than the audiopipe.. looks close to the same kind of numbers..

dibs for sig

Korea makes good amps.... china products tend to be of lesser quality... the soundstream/power-acoustic guys have great customer service.. I've never had an issue with them.. that's all I use to run right at the time of the merge (or whatever made the two the same)

the MA amp isn't over-rated if your running 17volts on a 12v system I could only get about 2800watts outta mine running 1 ohm. *You'll need more battery than you've listed to power this amp for daily pounding. I cannot remember exactly how un-efficient they are but they're down around 65% (most amps are in the 80's)---the poor eff. is at 12v. my P1500's strapped did more power than the 4000 (600watts more).. Personally I'd stay away from the amp.. not that they're junk... there's just better options.

That was quick. how'd it turn out? got it in? seem louder at the head on the port side?? Pics?

2volt works fine you just have to set your gains properly.. Currently I run a 2ish volt output and I have the gains set at less than 1/4 with no boost, nothing.. I get almost 3500 watts out of each pair of amps--they're only rated at 3k per pair.. **I do need to mention that I do run the amps at 1 ohm per pair (instead of the 2 that they are stable at.) with rise at my burp freq's it's roughly 1.5-1.8 ohm.. Higher Pre-amp volts are normally better. Your massive amp is only rated for 5v---well that is if they're like the P-series amps... I've had some amps clip out from too much input voltage--just running a 5v head unit *Kenwood, Bazooka*

What makes it suck for spl???? My favorite spl deck was a junk $80 jvc with 2v pre-outs... wouldn't skip for anything.. my old non-powered eclipse was great until it started skipping... maybe that's what your struggling with?? ***I'll reccomend what I use and love.. the JVC regular din dvd players.. they don't skip (even in my truck at 150+db @ 30hz) they have pause... ***Pause is a must have on an spl deck.. watch some of the newer cd players.. they no-longer have pause on them.. I bought 4 different decks this year that lacked that feature..

x2

it amazes me how many people buy fi woofers to use in there room... **there are a few

low voltage and low imp will cause the fuse to blow.. what subs are you running and at what ohm? I assume stock electrical? how's the ground?

I'm almost sure that's what it is.... who are you trying to fool with the blurry pic????

Looks like too fish tank hood light setting back to back.... I think tetra makes them

All I run is refurbs... it makes it cheaper to compete

X2 I wouldn't bother bench testing all of them either.. Save the money and invest it in something more worthwhile..

so there was more to it... cool..

It's sitting on top of/in the pole vent... I assume you've never seen a "naked" motor....?

there's not a huge difference from 2 to 4 gauge atleast not if you're just looking at it... he didn't say 2/0 he'd see the difference. ***The AP amps can power up in protect without a 12v constant signal. check your input voltage.. they'll come on in protect with just the remote line powering up.