rushnrun

I'll be building a box tomarrow with the same basic design.. If you want I can post some assembly pics..

well have fun building I assume you undersand how the port goes together.. these dimension make the box a little easier to build (you don't have to cut out the opening for the port this way) If you don't understand how it goes together I can make a quick sketch. 2 20x48 2 16.5x28 1 16.5x18.5 1 (16.5 minus port heigth) x 18.5 1 18.5x(port length) 2 (port length+.75") x (port height) make sure you post pics

Well if you want to go a little cheaper.... I've got a bunch of stuff sitting around collecting dust... how bout 2 Kicker ZX200.2's 1 Kicker ZX750.1 4 JVC CD-DX25 400 watt RMS 10" woofer (these work great in a small ported or bandpass_bandpass would ensure nobody can poke at the woofers...) 100' audiopipe 12ga (the audiopipe isn't quite as thick as some others more like 13ga than 12, I've got a 500' spool to cut off of) I've got some 20' audiopipe RCA's I can throw in there as well I can do $545 Shipped for it all... the woofers/wiring is new the kicker amps are refurbs, I bought them as refurbs I may have some powerwire on a spool as well... I also have some visonik 10's for the same price, I can provide pics of all... I know you want to help me clean out my spare bedroom/store room

the sheet will be 49x96x.75 you'll need: 2 20x48 2 16.5x28 2 16.5x18.5 1 18.5x(port length) 2 (port length x port height) had a mistake on the other.... wrong port width... these are right.

On the 21's, I can do 175 shipped for a single... $325 for the pair I estimated shipping too high when I posted the first time I dug them out of my store room and actually measured and weighed them and got a better shipping quote.

I estimate it at 28 by what I'm seeing (I did run the numbers though..) but without the drawing being to scale or properly proportioned i can be exactly sure what it is tuned to.. I would say my estimate is fairly accurate, the box may even be tuned a little lower than 28

ANYBODY? must not be a very popular car... I know I don't see any of them locally... sure wish he didn't live so far away...

Hey, I've got a fella that lives a few hours away that wants me to build a box for his 03 Ford ZX2, However I don't have anyway to measure out the trunk and to get him to understand and tell me the correct dimensions isn't gonna happen... (no common sense at all....) So does anyone have a ZX2 or happen to know the dimensions of the trunk I'm thinking 32x14x18 W x H x D rear firing a pair of 12's roughly 3 cubes 30 hz.... after dis

1 SHEET won't do it... I think the best you could end up is a sheet and a half. one sheet will cover the top, bottom, front back and sides the other sheet will be needed for the second baffle layer, port, and any bracing.... the sheet will be 49x96x.75 you'll need: 2 20x48 2 16.5x28 2 16.5x18.5 1 16.5x(port length) 2 (port length x port height)

the x-max doesn't determine tuning tuning frequency.......... by your sketch looks like your tuned at about 28hz....

I'm a big fan of removing everything I don't know or understand and rewire.... you shoulda seen my parents HT kinda looked like the truck wiring

what type of vehicle? I had a hatch back that the turbulence of the wind would cause my 15 it to move irregular... even when it was off... not saying that's the problem.... just saying it could happen.... if you notice it popping roll the windows up and see if it stops...

I would say make floor stand-type maybe 3 boxes-2 per box (whatever is easier to mount) possibly put a slight angle in each direction bus front: \_/ \_/ \_/ :bus rear ----- not that extreme of an angle but should give you the idea... this indicates a sub on each side.. or you could do sid by side and start at the very front (this way there's no sound directed at the driver) Bus front: |/ |/ |/ :bus rear straight down would work as well but I think it'll sound a little "fuller" if you angle them a bit(primarily since they are very close to the floor (straight down works well in buildings because of the distance from the speaker to your head) *straight down will also be much easier to build... and again I doubt the drunk people notice the difference... I would also suggest running them mono since in the bus your not gonna need "stereo"... mono is easier to wire up, and stereo in that type of setup I feel is fairly pointless, even djing I ran mono unless it was a wedding (weddings suck btw )... again Just my 2 cents

ye i know. im not gonna make a ratio for this build. what do you mean? on paper or in the final product... I assume you're refering to the ports??? (not being an a$$ just curious what you meant)

you'll be looking at 275% more cone (and not a bunch more cost), there will be more mid the tweet section will suffer slightly (I usually run one of those exact tweet per pair of 6.5's) they mesh flawlessly in my HT setup. Depending on height of the bus (I haven't been in one for years so I can't recall) I'd suggest mounting them on the ceiling downfiring in pairs with some sort of mesh grill.... less likly to get poked at, puked on, ect.... You're not as likly to damage someone's property if it is in a central location in plain sight.... just my 2 Cents though.... I had trouble with people poking at my dj speakers.. they'd stab them with straws spit at them ect.... drunk people suck when it's your stuff that's getting raped

tweets..... http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=275-070 woofers.... http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...315&scqty=6 leave you with roughly 80/pair after building a simple 2-way x-over set up

maybe try the 8" version 77% more cone area but then it's also 66% more cost....:| I'll look at the raw's and see if there's a good 10"mid/tweet combo...

The Dayton audio drivers are great/affordable drivers. I run all dayton for my home theater and couldn't be happier. as for the specific one's your looking at... I've never had that particular speaker but I am very familiar with their raw woofers (I build my own cabinets and x-overs) very good products sound great and affordable to boot..

21 inches, eight ohms single vc

I've got two left One is new never been taken out of the box, the other has been mounted powered up to show a potential buyer and removed. 200 shipped each to lower 48 states or pm me an offer. I don't need them anymore, I no longer DJ I do still have the friggin huge box for the dj use...

about 15inches long you could increase port height to 6 and change the length to 22 for more port area and a 34hz tuning

I've got some Madison X 21" PA subwoofers, 4" voice coil 1000watt rms rated... THey're just hanging out in the store room... I got ambitious when I dj'ed and bought four of them, used one and the rest sat. the one in 4.5cubes tuned at 30 was enough to rattle the heck out of our biggest nightclub. You could feel it in you chest when you walked in the door.. dance floor was 6500 square feet I ran the one on 2.5k with no issues (other than frying the home-made passive x-overs)

loud side=port side Usually if you roll down the window on the sub side you gain a ton of output on the portside headrest... open the door and it gets even louder... I use that design to show off at car shows. I let the people get in and shut the door then I just leave mine open... *all shut up my pass headrest meters about 1db higher than the drivers (my ports are aimed at pass side)

48 x 20 x 18 gives you roughly 6 cubes after all displacements (pending on how heavy you brace, dimensions only good for a single layer of .75 inch material) w h L 17x5x27 slot port gives you roughly 30 hz (port consumes 1.66cubes) (I allowed .5 cubes for woofer and bracing) fire sub up on pass side and port towards drivers, flip box around to be louder on the other side Id suggest that you atleast double up the baffle

any good box designing programs i could use to figure out the specs for it? or possibly can you help? yeah I'll get you some rough dimensions... it'll take a couple