rushnrun

hmmmmm.. anybody???

and for reference.. the sub stage is my last concern. however I need the unit to be able to provide that signal as well.. I probably won't worry about the woofer until this winter when I have time to tear down the car to do some glassing.

there's a fella that sell fogate recones on ebay... they come in a kit.. not sure if he has them for your woofer.. just type recone in the search line and you should be able to find them.. If the car will be staying at the shop I always pull the system out (not to mention I usually have it in for warranty repairs... not sure if the stereo voids the warranty).. if it's a rush (bad tire ect..) I'll pull the fuse and faceplate... never leave your stereo operational while at a shop... heck even our local audio shop blew my buddies woofers when he took the car in to have it detailed.. they denied it and said it was blown when he went in... Kinda like my dad leaving his charger r/t at the ford dealer and picking it up with fresh rubber around the wheel wells.. :/ disrepectful workers...

plus I traded off the mazda and the civic is gutted .. so I don't have a car to do a quick test in so I have to do all testing on the bench.. I'll be using 4 industrial acid filled batteries that float at 13.3v a cheap soundstream dvd/cd player for signal, or maybe just the laptop and a line driver.... (with selling off the mazda and gutting the civic I sold all my good decks.. and most of the equipment that was in them... now I've got to use some b/s )

hopefully I'll have some numbers tomarrow. tonight I've got to get the bench set back up.. It's been a while since I've done any testing

first I'll be testing 12v at 4,2,1 and .5 ohms.. I assume all ratings are at 17 volts, I'll be testing output at 60hz

On 3k My single SE (not SX) Did 148.8 all sealed on the dash in my civic T/L mic (that's the best I did with it) ... I finally broke it running it off 2 kicker zx2500's... still plays but the "inner dustcap" seperated from the cone.. so now it rattles with the cap floating around in there.. broken it still does 46's in the mazda So I'd say the SX should be able to do better than that... depending on some variables

*** sorry I forgot there are some random numbers on the board.. they're not the serial... probably the part number of the board....?

pretty queer huh? there's nothing written anywhere else on the board.. no name brand no serial not anything.. just Danger other than that the board is suprisingly clean. I don't see anything that looks like an oops... the only thing I see that could be a potential problem is the 4ga wire... doesn't look to be a very good qaulity(looks like coarse 8 gauge with a thick insulator) the wire itself doesn't feel very secure... the solder joint is good but just right after the solder the cable wiggles very freely.... I figure after enough vibration that'll eventually lead to broken wire... I'll probably get her held down a little better. the other thing I'm not liking is the phillips head set screws.. they're a soft metal and will strip easily... especially when cranking down on 0 gauge.. I'll probably make a run to the hardware store and pick up a set of allen heads for it..

hmmm... I been thinking about buying on of these for testing... maybe I'll stay away until I see one for myself..

It's a Clif Designs amp... I don't remember the modle number. It's the biggest one they make. I use to run the ANABA family when I couldn't afford "good stuff" so I figured I'd "go back to my roots" it's more for testing than anything. I'll be throwing it on a 2 or 4 of clif's best spl 15's, again I don't know the modle numbers... they're just sitting in the living room btw... this stuff isn't cheap (in price) like it use to be...

next to the zx 2500..... I'll get it opened up for comparison

my g/f has an 08 with the cvt.. It's weird riding in a car that doesn't shift... especially when you go back to driving a stick afterwards.. she get's roughly 23mpg in town and about the same on the highway..

if using one layer of .75" material his box is right at ten cubes after displacment of the woofer and port.... your calculation was gross external volume.....

With a 44% increase in surface area and the same amount of power your probably going to see a gain.. anywhere between 1-3 db.. however it all depends.. I don't believe there's any easy science to it... even though it's the same woofer... the two different sizes have different parameters (efficiency ect)..... different box requirements.... I'm sure the 18's would be louder but I'm not sure how worthwhile it would be.. I think the old rule they use to push was 2x surface area and 2x power = 3db louder... (by "they" I mean the old audio shop (1998) in my town...) generally I don't worry about any of that though I like bunches of power and itty bitty woofers..

port side, sub up works well in most pickups... you really just need to test.. I normally make a cheapie box out of .5" mdf with a cheap eight or ten mounted and just keep changing port location/sub orientation until I find the "sweet spot"

I woulda let you sit in my kicker ride Not saying Kicker's better.... Just saying if you know what you're doing...... almost anything can get loud... b.t.w. It's common knowledge that if it's on tv or at best buy it's the $h!t :):)

any pics? vids?

the woofers have to be out of phase for isobaric to work.... otherwise you get no sound... isobaric isn't intended to increase output.... Isobaric would never work properly with two different woofers.... it's never a good idea to mix subwoofers... of course the woofers will play and if your adding more woofers(more surface area) on the same power-pending the ohm load- it'll get louder... doesn't mean it's a good thing.. doesn't mean it bad I suppose.. I just know I'd rather pop my trunk and see 2 of the same woofers instead of 12 different boxes with every woofer I could pull out of the closet... for reference.. I went to a show where a kid had 12 12's in his ford ltd.. he had 6 different amps, 8 different boxes and 8 different kinds of woofers... he did a whopping 138.8db... at that show I ran 2 cerwin vega hed 8's (off 3k) and did a 146.3... so who needs 12 miscellaneous 12's anyway? (*I ran the 8's to mess with my buddy running 2 15's he was only doing 47's with his 2 15's and 3k) Use your best woofer, build a good box and enjoy, sell off all the miscellaneous stuff...

I've still got a couple of those woofers lying around.. good little woofers... heck I use to burp one off 3k until I creased the cone..

any progress?

wow sorry man I haven't been oh here today. The 28 was a typo-shoulda been 48.. when I copied and pasted I didn't catch the typo use one of the extra's-{the sides that are too short}-- to double up under the sub (on the inside of the box-you'll have to cut 1.5" off the width. then you'll need two boards 48 long instead of 28.. sorry again.. can't believe I missed that typo... looking good though

yep... the sealer primer works much better than the regular primer.. the regular seems to be absorbed more easily..

I use a laquer based sealer primer-the type you'd use on a car prior to painting.. it doesn't get absorbed as easily and give a good surface to paint.

no prob..