rushnrun

You can put 5.25" in the doors, you just need to make/purchase the adaptor plate with the 5.25's you'll have several options, possibly run a component set if that's something that's in the budget.. I'll let others chime in... *the adaptor plates will not allow for a protruding tweeter on a coaxil... they need to almost be flush..

and for your car... the rear looks similiar in shape to the older honda civics (my original SPL Machine) Depending on where/how you're metering there's a couple different combinations that work well if it's as similiar as it looks.. On the dash sealed I always did better with everything facing back... (the civic didn't have much room... 14x14x36 was my external box size and that took up all but 3" of the trunk...) I did 148.8 with the SE12 sub up ports back on 3.4k... never fired the 12 back... only built the one box for the 12 in that car (nobody else was close to my score so it didn't matter much..) Overall size in the civic (to be legal) was 36x17x15 if accounting for the seats angle the bottom plate could have been 24.. with the top being 17... I knew/still know that car inside and out.. I used it for 4 years straight.. did 151's legal on the dash in a street class with basically 3k and 2 10" woofers.. (diamond audio D5's--not an spl woofer) sorry for the lengthly post

****As pointed out earlier... I've burped my SE12 on 5 k in 1.5 cubes with no issues... No burnt coil or anything of the sort... The only issue I had with my woofer was after 4 years of abuse the dust cap came loose underneath the "cover" on the woofer. (this woofer has been burped on, street beaten, it's been used to bench test amps, it's taken every thing I've thrown at it.. still works.. just had it hooked up two days ago ) **I burped it for a whole season on 3.4k in 2.5 cubes with No issues... I played music on it as well at that power... However my SE is an older version '04 so I'm not sure on the new ones.. I've basically done 150db with the single 12 in every vehicle I've put it in.. (on the dash, sealed, termlab mic).. so depending on how the new woofers are built and what box you have them in.. they can handle the juice.. they should easily do 3k for burps if they're anything like the old ones..

I'll test one out for you at SBN Still Searching for the right woofer

Ike sound sold out of these within 24 hours of you posting this... I was gonna grab one today but they're all gone *Ike sound is terribly slow at processing anything... I bought somthing from them once and it took almost 30 days to receive.

X2

x2 on isp error for new post, everything else works thanks for getting rid of that darn banner... I clicked it a dozen times on accident when I was trying to click something else....kept friggin' movin'

x2 they may have some cosmetic flaws on the magnet or basket but work just like new they are just Re-coned with new softparts as for the mofo's... I've heard a pair and they weren't terrible, got fairly loud and sounded ok (I can't say good but good enough for the average joe) depending on what you're paying you may have some other better options in the same price range

pm'd

Got my Onkyo TX-SR805 receiver yesterday... all I can say is wow.... should have just bought the receiver first... far more output than either of the audiosource amps (more output than I really need)... it lacks a little on the low end but I'm sure there's a crossover that I can change... too many buttons just to go pushing, looks like I'll have to read the manual.. My only complaint is these amps get SUPER HOT, too hot to touch even after 20mins of stereo play (just watching TV at low levels)... The receiver has a sticker on top that warns about the excessive heat, so I don't know if it's the ohm load I

Anyone here run an active home theater setup? I'm looking at possibly running 4 100 watt bridgeable stereo amps (for mids and highs) and 1 200 watt bridgeable stereo amp (subwoofer) along side an active crossover (behringer or peavey 3way stereo-4 way mono design or something else..?) The end result will probably be a stack of amps hanging in the basement and an infinite baffle subwoofer using the floor as the baffle (I may go ceiling, not sure what will sound better)... I'm not real sure on speakers, I'll be building everything. I'm thinking of making a large "sound bar" center channel with 8 3" woofers and 2 1 1/8" tweeters... I've got some towers from my last passive build that I may use in this app. They're dual 6.5 woofers with a single 1 1/8" tweet (I'll be adding an extra tweet if I reuse these woofers-they're Dayton audio reference series, along with the tweets) The TV (46"LCD) will supply all the a/v mixing of components so I'll just be running the TV out to the x-over and work it out from there.... Other than I may try to hook up and Ipod/mp3 player to the setup separately so the TV doesn't have to be on... Not real sure what I'm getting into... Any input or pointers? Oh yeah it’s a very small living room somewhere in the neighborhood of 15x10 with 9

any t/s parameters for the D1's I can't seem to locate them. wanting a pair..... I'd just like to see the parameters.. thanks

I had something similar done to. Someone had accessed another person's account and bought a few things from me and requested that I ship to a different address than on file (different state), they tried to pay via-Echeck and insured that the payment was good.... but it never cleared.

the normal message for this type of transaction should read something more like... (I'm on dial up here at work otherwise I'd copy and paste a real PP msg for you.) You have a Pending E-check from "user name" in the amout of "amount". Please do not ship item until the E-check has cleared.

did you copy and paste this??? or type it yourself?? Paypal messages use proper English and do not have grammatical or spelling errors as this message does

Don't ship the item until the e-check is cleared. That doesn't sound like a typical Paypal message... (I use PP all the time) E-checks are common... nothing wrong with that type of transaction. The payment will show cleared in your account when it has. when you ship make sure and select "Adult Signature Required" for shipping options.. That way your covered under Paypal's policy.

home theater is normaly tuned lower as others have already stated.... IB, sealed, ported down around 20 are common for custom builds most low end pre-fab home subs (that I've seen) are tuned around 30 though

Quick question on a center channel.. Basically looking for opinions due to personal experience.. What will sound better, or will it make much of a difference

This is the first time I'll be using dual tweets... I usually run two woofers and one tweet (for towers)... I was just trying to make a larger center channel to handle a bit more power and have more output to better match with my larger towers.. *Fairly new in the Home theater building.... I've built several towers with good results... this is my first center..

well I need some "monster" 10's good score, outlaw, legal...?

the way I described does the best job at getting rid of almost all the noise. just strip back about 1.5" of wire and wrap it around the outside metal on the rca then run the wire to the antenna strip back wire and stick in the plug when you hook it to the car if you don't have an antenna the next best is the chassis of the deck then the chassis of the car (from my experience the antenna is the only way to get rid of almost all of the noise) This fix worked in both my Mazda and in my civic... I had about 6 different units that had the same issue..

If you're having the problem I think you are... I know how to remedy it... doesn't fix it but suppresses the noise.. run a wire (18ga-ish) from one rca outer and run the wire to the outer jacket on your antenna lead (antenna has to be plugged in).. worked on every pioneer I've had do the same thing... I usually make 6months or so before they do it... I believe I was told it was a resistor problem in the board and is an easy fix... I'm not much for tearing apart the deck and fixing it though..

D6's cannot be rebuilt by diamond. Fi will/can recone them but you have to send them in to get it done (I checked on it for my blown 10's)

Yeah, I see your point... I should have thought this through a little more before I started buying equipment. Kind of did the kid in a candy store thing when I got this idea.. I knew to run active I would need quite a bit of equipment I had planned on 4-amps and probably 3-crossovers I think the Onkyo receiver I'm looking into should probably be more than enough power and I probably won't end up using any of the amps(other than the sub) So yeah dumb idea on my part... Atleast the stuff I bought is fairly cheap so I didn't waste much Thanks for the input.... I'll post some pics of the finished speakers and Passive Setup....

The only woofer I know anything about is the Diamond Audio D6, I ran a pair of D5/D6 10's for over a year and loved them--they're my all-time favorite woofer that I've ever owned. The D5's I ran for a year straight doing spl comps as well as street beating. I ran roughly 1700 watts daily to them with no issues.. the D6's had a fairly short life as I uped my power and toasted them at the first comp I went to (151db on 3400 watts sealed on the dash-street class--they only made the one run) *the D6's sounded just as good as the D5's for daily--however I only spent 3 months with them. I ran my pair of 10's in roughly 2.5cubes tuned 30hz for daily... great lows.