rushnrun

I was doing hair tricks with 2 10's 2500 watts in a 4 door sedan... I'm with denim, Box design/electrical should be your biggest concern. with your volumes... is that gross volume?? remember woofers, ports, and bracing all take up air space.. **Might as well wall that little truck... the back will be usless anyway

Still waiting for my first 3000 to get here so I know if I want another..

I've seen it done before, Not a big fan of walling a small hatback cars(especially a CRX)... Sell the REX to someone who competes seriously in street/stock classes and wall something else I've looked for a decent CRX for years..

*****I only say it's too high due to the low build quality... Like I said in the previous post, I was always sending mine in... I didn't mention that they charge 15-35 for you to send it in and you pay the shipping... I acrued about 200 in shipping/repair fees over the year I had mine.. that's why I say not worth it... **If you check out the internals on AMPGUTS it looks like a decent 1000 watt amp. Pretty much a big empty case... They could have made the amp half it's physical size and housed the same internals

You'd really be better off picking up another Tantrum if you need more power.. 300 is still too high IMO Sundown has a deal on their sae1000's you can grab 2 for 500...

***You could pick those up on ebay for like 300 back when they were first out... I've heard one in person... a guy fiberglassed his tirewell and used as a sealed box.. sounded ok but nothing special..

I've gotta wait till it's warm out... no heat=no heater core replacement... (the truck wasn't being driven anyway-it's been in parts for a week or so now... it'll just be staying that way for a while.) I'm pretty lazy/unmotivated in the cold guess I'll start the civic build today... I don't have time/room for a full tear down so I'll just run some wires and get to box building. I think I've got 30 days or so to the first comp...

Well this will be delayed a little due to the bad heater core... I didn't think it'd be a huge deal at first but it seems that I was wrong I'll post more if I get the heater core fixed.

grrr... no go on having this done... My buddy can't do it either.... something to do with the A/C system (I think he just doesn't want to do it in his shop... he owns the shop and it'd take up one of his bays and he doesn't have a ton of room to start with) the only place in town that acted like they would do it said it's $60 an hour and they don't know how long it would take... could be 10-20hours..... Stop leak is sounding tempting... I don't like riggin' stuff but for the cost and hassel.... It might limp through that way..... I also need to get the drain unclogged so it stops dumping into the interior.. **this truck is suppose to be going to a comp next month... i.e. it'll still be cold out so bypassing really isn't an option..

I didn't notice that you have a Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1, that amp is much better quality than the Visonik and probably could give it a run for it's money.. If I were you I'd take some time save up a little cash and buy something better. Looks like you have some nice equipment, no sense in "downgrading" your amp section.. Oh yeah I'd like to point out that after testing I sold my clif amp (for 200 less than I paid) and purchased a sundown for less than I purchased the cliff amp.

Over-rated...... Almost all their newer High current amps are rated by "Peak power @ 17volts" most of them do less than 50% of their advertised power (primarily due to the 17 volt rating.. The extra 5volts of input give basically 42% more power on the unregulated power supplies... I've got a couple of their 1400watters that can't even do 500watts @ 12.4volts..... I did test the Big Clif 5200 watt rated amp, it consistently did right at 2800 watts sitting at 12ish volts... I got a couple big readings off of it but could have been errors because the same numbers were never repeated... I tested this amp on 3 different occasions the last testing I got some new fluke meters to use vs. the craftsman meters that I did have and saw a big difference in numbers.. Seems that the craftsman meters are all over the place when testing.. The flukes stayed more consistent. anyhow What I'm getting at is that I only got 53% of rated power on a regular basis during the testing.. If you need a Big Amp I'd pony up the little extra for the Sundown, Kicker, Memphis, ect... The ANABA Group seems to have poor construction and poor reliability. Some of the higher end amps are ok, but with the over-rating not worth the price tag that almost matches that of others.... I'd bet a SAZ2000D could out perform the Visonik amp... Should be about the same price... (I'm on dial-up or I'd look it up for you) **** On RELIABILITY: I ran that exact amp for about a year and was always sending it in for repair. I'd be driving along and all the sudden Poof didn't work, no smoke not anything... I'd send the amp in and they

what happened to low limit????? now anyone wil a balance less than 1k cannot play... I think

I've been told that I can unbolt the passenger side and disconnect a few thing and be able to pull the dash away enough to get the job done. I'll be talking to my friend with the shop here in an hour or so, so I'll know what I'll be doing with it

Yeah I'm pretty stoked on the civic. I loved my 92 and have wanted another ever since I sold mine last year. **the old lady's not real happy about me buying two "stereo" cars within 30 days She said If I buy one more she gets a new Lexus... I better hold off for a while now eh? **too bad the 98 civic has such a weird trunk space... the 92 was a little more stereo friendly..

^^^^^^^ The exact style of box I was reccomending for the single 15

Some people buy shoes, some people buy jerseys, I buy cars I may have a problem... I buy about 18 different cars over the course of one year.... I don't keep them all.. :)

yeah 94 and older are easy.... grrrrr..... maybe I'll feed it some stopleak and hope for the best.... and wow jon that's one hell of a nightmare in there..... ***I just picked up a cive HB today so I've got a backup SPL car for now... I'm gonna see if my buddy with a heated shop will let me take up some of his space otherwise this will wait till summer...

I'm a big fan of just building and testing.. I know it's not real feisable for others. Normaly I just build a few different cheap boxes out of .5"mdf and throw a junk 10" in and see what box is closer to the sound and output I'm looking for... If you make the box a little shorter say 2-3" shorter, you can make it a little deeper, fire the sub up and the ports off to the Passenger or drivers side.. that designs works ok in some cars... firing foward can be ok.... if it's not sealed up good I don't think the performance is all that great.. What are you going for anyway??? High SPL or just loud and decent sounding?? personally with your space I'd suggest a rear firing 12... I did another 99 sunfire with two CHEAP 10's on just 500 watts and it was almost as loud as the other guys single 15 (the whole setup cost 250 bucks..) he did low 40's on the dash.... The 2-10 were 2.25 cubic feet tuned 28hz and the 15 was 3ish cubes at 35hz **the dual 10 box was 12x32x18 so there was plenty of "breathing room" around the box.. He had his small MTX amp mounted to the back of the seat ********************************************* Some other trunk car builders should chime in... My personal builds are all hatches of some sort, SUVs and HB cars.. so I have no testing experience with trunk cars other than the random builds I've done for others..(there wasn't any testing involved in those builds, just built what the person wanted)

no matter what style of port the cubic inch of cross sectional area should remain the same Slot ports offer the smallest vent length for surface area The last sunfire with a 15 that I did the box was 36x16x18 it was an 05... you pretty much choke off all the foward airflow with a box that big.. there still is room to the rear.. (i.e. the 18" could have been a little bigger..)

i think ac outlets are 60 hz yep 60hz

you don't need "220" you just need a bigger breaker and wired in parallel... Hell just get you some 10ga wire and hook it straight to the breaker box.. ***My local shop use to hook up their returned woofers to the wall to polish them off.. the Old (2nd gen)HCCA 12's use to take a long time before they'd blow...

cough.. cough... You're just scared...

**I can't give you a comparison.. however I can say I'll NEVER own another yellow top--they don't work for me. I replaced the one in my civic several times over the course of the 2 yr warranty... I'm talking every 3,4,or 5 months.. I had one extra 1200cca group 31 acid batt in the back powering my amps with the yellow under the hood.. I've been told it was possibly caused by the high charging voltage of my H/O Alt... When I was burning them up my alt put out right at 14.8-14.9volts and 200A at 2,000 rpm... I swapped out to a duralast gold and never fried another batt.. ***other people LOVE their yellow tops.. I've just not had good luck.

The welding wire that we get for my work is SUPER flexible and much larger than any car audio wire (it's for desiel engines-i.e. it's coated in something completly different--it's a soft black rubber, then a paper then the wire..).. it's softer than hell... the wire strands are about the consistancy of a females hair.. almost feels silky... it's some good stuff... but I think it's 12+ per foot...our cost.

for regular demands it seems to be pretty decent wire. Watch the copper clad aluminum vs the true copper. Aluminum cannot pass as much current. I'm not sure of the exact ratio but it takes a larger gauge of aluminum to pass the same current as copper.. something like 2 gauge of aluminum clad is like 4 gauge of copper... not exact but like I said I'm not real sure of the exact conversion.. **The aluminum wire is cheaper than the copper. **good flexible wire...