rushnrun

***You can get audiopipe fuses for like a dollar on ebay....

You have a whole set of other issues if you blow a 300 amp fuse... You have to have some Serious voltage drop or other problems.... **I blew 320A running my cd4800LX at .5 ohm... it only blew because the voltage dropped to 10ish volts... (bench testing with no back up power) other than that I only blow fuses when I have to for testing (for MECA) For reference: I could run my zx2500 at full tilt on 1 ohm on just 80 (single 80A ANL) amps of fuse... I ran two zx2500's at 2ohm full tilt on 100amps (single 100A ANL) just for burps.. Multi fusing you can run on less but that's a MECA thing ___which is the only reason why I know I can run a zx2500 on 80A

btw my deck always did it on exactly 45 no-matter what the gain was on the amp (it didn't do it to every amp though...?)

try turning your gain up slightly and keeping your deck volume below 40 My old pioneer would do the same thing on one of my woofer amps back in the day.. all I did was increase gain and lower the volume on the deck.. I didn't lose any output just stopped whatever it was from happening... possibly too high of an input voltage on the RCA's... or just the deck messing up... I dunno I just found how to "fix it"

better box... never dump a subwoofer due to a bad install.. those w7 are good woofers they may be over-priced but you already bought them

the increased voltage lessened the amp draw so you stopped popping it... Nothing wrong with adding more juice Breaker can work I just don't use/trust them either way.. Just like a breaker in a house if you pop it enough times it seems to weaken and pop more easily... for instance.. the 20A fuse in my home that runs the kitchen outlets and lights... originally it popped if the lights were on with the Microwave running and fridge kicked on, then it begain to pop just when switching the light on (one 60watt bulb) if you ran the microwave, and over time I could no longer run the microwave at all it'd pop after a few seconds. swapped the breaker and no more problems.. I can run everything at once now... I just like fuses... fairly predictable(I do MECA so I have to fuse anyway...)

I'm with everyone else GET A FUSE Breakers aren't reliable... they can get weak and trip all the time or they can stick and never "pop" stay away from breakers

On your batts and that amp... In my buddies stock Yukon(he did the wiring himself and refuses to do permanent upgrades anything since he buys a new truck every 6-10 months) with one 800 CCA(JUNK) batt under the hood, one 1100CCA batt in the rear just running 4ga from front to rear, w/no upgrades at all, stock alt no "Big Three"---(I don't call it that... I've been doing it for over a decade... I don't know when it got the name...anyhow..) He has no dimming no electrical issues at all.. I ran basically the same setup in my mazda but with 0gauge and had no issues there either.. when I ran my two zx2500's I added one extra batt and worked great... my voltage never dropped below 12 volts... ***I ran my amp at 1 ohm, my buddy runs his at 2***with 2-amps I ran 2 ohm.. the 1100cca batt we were/are using is just an industrial group31 batt.

ahhh, my buddy with the shop called yesterday.... He needs to pay his power bill so now he'll do it... he quoted roughly 300-400 for the install.... He said it should take just about a day.. funny how the need of money changes people's minds.... He's in a bad spot at the moment so I'll probably have him do it... to help him out and to save me the aggrevation And on the positive side if it only takes a day that means I can start my build that much sooner the sundown equipment is itchin' to get installed... I got my 3000d two days ago

The crx that I saw that was walled had 6 15's and it wasn't any more impressive than many regular dual 12 setups in rex's

two things One) that's an AC clamp meter (won't work), you'd have to have a DC clamp meter.. the craftsman ones are 60 Two) to test the alt you have to have a load on it... the autozone tester puts a load on to test output (I think.... someone correct me if I'm wrong..)

IMO You need atleast 2 4" areo's ports I ran two on my 4 L5 8's and had TONS of port noise... (the L5's have more surface area than a regular 8 though) it was 2.5cubes tuned 28hz

Are you running an extra batt with that amp???

really the autozone way is the easiest... I don't know of what issues, or how accurate they are but.... The tested my Ebay "250" amp alt and it only did 168amps at 2k rpm I'm sure you could use a dc clamp meter... I own one but have never tried to test an alt with it..

But it'd go really well with the 3000D that I just recieved yesterday.... I have people from forums send me money orders all the time but don't include who they are, what they were buying ect... it's hard to figure it out sometimes.. I think they don't realize that their not the only person that is buying something.. And I can't believe you'd send something like that off with out any return info... When I send warranty items in my name, address, and phone number are all over, on the packing box, on the actual box, in the box with the product... then I stick a post it on the actual product... You're not gonna miss mine!

I'll claim it!

I'll take LOTS of pics... and not just for people to see but for me to know where the hell everything came from When I tear down and there's an odd bolt or screw I take a picture of the screw/bolt at the location that it came out of, that way I know where the heck it goes. Right now every bolt/screw from the explorer is in a baggy sorted by location/what it came out/off of... I'm trying to steer clear of extra parts on this one

the 96 removal doesn't look so bad on paper... until you see "remove cluster *see cluster removal" by cluster it's refering to the entire dash.... also the bolts that it wants you access aren't accessible without removing other parts to get to them... I'm guessing I end up with a bucket of spare parts after this one

the 94 is like a 30min job... the 96 is a WHOLE different story... I looked up explorer heater core removal online and got excited when I saw the 94's removal process then I got to reading further and saw the 96 removal.. (94 should be the box body style 95 and up is round)

Thanks for the info, I'll look into it...

well you use to have 56in^2 of port (the old box was probably just about right) and you'll now have only 25in^2 if using 2 areos... the flares help with the port noise but.... I ran an SE 12 on 2 4" areos and it still had port noise (I was running it off of 3000+watts at the time) the larger the box the more area you need.... 12-14 in^2 of port per cubic foot is suppose to be ideal (I don't use this method but everyone on here seems to post it) so by that you'd need 60-70in^2 of port which is more than twice of what you will have with the two areos... Slot ports are nice because you can get more area for the same length/tuning, however you also have to tak into account of the increased port displacement which increases the port lenght... ***I never use areos for my boxes for three reasons... 1. Personal preference_they're easier to tune for my application 2. Cost_you can buy a whole sheet of MDF for the cost of 1 areo port 3. Shorter vent lenght/surface area *****I don't have anything against them I just don't use them anymore....

looks close enough.... IMO you really DON'T have enough port area.. you really need about 2 of th areos per sub. however the length you would need wouldn't work out.. Edit:left out a word Don't makes a big difference in that statement

pi x radius^2 x Heigth if a 4" port 3.14 x 2^2 x Port length that'll give you cubic inches then divide by 1728 to get cubic feet **don't worry so much about the flares just treat it like your average cylinder.. the flared portion won't take up enough space to make any real difference

Well I've decided to go ahead and try and tackle this... I thought about sticking the truck outside and bringing in the civic but I can't work on the civic with all the truck's parts laying around.. It'll be my first dash removal... I'll use the space heater on the inside and try not to freeze if I have to take anything off under the hood... guess I better buy the manual.. woohooo this'll be fun...... I can only work on it about 1-2hrs a night so It may take a while..

Nothing dangerous about it... just loss of rearward vision.. Like mentioned before there are several vans and such that have no rear windows.. I can't wall a daily vehicle since I'm always looking in the mirror to see what's going on back there... plus I'd probably tag my house everyday coming out of the drive (it's a narrow drive)