rushnrun

will it remain in the same size case??

nope, no pic ****fixed it while I was posting... I see it now

I bet it's the maxi fuse.... I'm just listing the other possibilities.. if you live somewhere where they use road salt it's very likely that the connection is bad inside the holder... remove the fuse and take a look at it.. What amps did you run before??? (lower current draws are less likely to show the power/connection issues) The ground Has to have Bare metal contact to work... if it's not you may only be making a connection where the bolt directly contacts the metal (where it passes through it) I would check the fuse, then I would make sure that ground connection is "good" clean it up if it's not already bare metal. ***it's possible that any of the questionable connections have become corroded during the winter months (pending on your location more likely than others)

Heater core is done... My buddy got it in his shop and got the work done in one day.... wooo hooo.... back to building..

Well I purchased this explorer the Monday 12-22-08. So I've had it a few weeks. The truck is dent free, interior is near perfect, very good find IMO. the only body issue it has is some rust on the rockers (hidden when the door is shut)--It'll be taken to the local shop to get those taken care of. Anyhow this is a fairly undecided build other than it'll fit in the MECA class S1 or S2, needs to do roughly 150-154db (headrest on the T/L) So far I have and think I'm installing: 1 Sundown 3000d, 2 Sundown Nightshade 12's D1 (however I plan on running a single 10" woofer and more power for the final setup--Need a company to get me a big beast of a 10 hint hint..) The HU is a JVC KD-AVX44, gotta have DVD for those long trips to the shows 1/0 wiring Mids and highs will be at a later time-I've got fairly limited time to get this thing ready for the carl casper show next month, followed by SBN in March. It'll be 3way-8" mid-bass, 6.5 mid, and 1" tweets, I've got 3 kicker zx250.2 that will handle the power or one 350.4 and 1 250.2... depends on what space is left over, SPL is the most important in this vehicle.. It's was solely purchased for that reason. Shopping for batts so if anyone knows where I can get a good deal let me know

Well... Dropped the EXPO off on Sunday night... My buddy got it in his shop 8a.m. yesterday and was done at 5p.m. yesterday.... He da man! He said it was a real B.... and that the whole heater core was rotted out... the entire box was full of Anti-freeze all the way to the top.. So Back to building..... well after Carl Caspers... the civic's stereo is already in motion...

Ok, pics are good... 1st.... what is up with the amp? is that the sundown that Jacob sold on here that was repaired but only had the two fuses because of the damage... or is that something that has happened and hasn't been taken care of? 2nd.... that Maxi Fuse holder could be part of the problem.. if it's the type that the fuse just presses in they can short easily... swap to an ANL--IMO it's a much better connection. 3rd..... Is the chassis paint free under the ground terminals? it needs to be shinny bare metal under there.. 4th..... Looks like your ring terminals are tarnished... try hitting both sides of them with a wire wheel to clean them up. where exactly is the ground?? the trunk floor?? or?? What does that power connection look like under the red cover?

well again IMO You'll have quite a bit of port turbulence with such a small port.. My single SE had terrible port noise with 25in^port so with you having only 30 and twice the surface area...... **I think just about anyone will suggest that you run atleast 50-60in^2

you're right on the tuning... not enough port area IMO... I'd say you need 50-60"^2 of port area... if you make the port 3" wide it takes your length to 22 gives you 45 in^2

bad ground or power connection... where do you have it grounded? How is it secured?

Not sure on how good of an idea it is to post how badly you've broken the law These were all on a closed course... wink* wink* 145 05 Mazda 6 S-hatch--not topped out--outta runway 133 92 Civic DX Hatch--pretty much all she had 137 Modded 90 Infinity Q-45 Lots of pedal left...---That car was a BEAST for a 4-door sedan--too much car for a 16yr old 88 S-15 Jimmy 0-60 in holy $hi! 4:10 gears, Built 400small block bored 60 over, 400+hp... Can we say Wheel Stand! Truck was built as a toy... I only ran the 1/4 mile 13.2sec (truck should have ran 1/8) I used the truck as a daily driver until gas got to 3 bucks a gallon... it was lucky to get 6-8mpg could only get 100miles on a tank of gas 62mph Rode-93 Geo metro.... That's all it had... and it took FOREVER to get there 0-50 was 28 seconds (we timed it because it was too funny) doing 60 was rough with/out a tail wind... (to be fair the driver was 6'7" and 350+lbs..) 08 GTI not even broken in so it hasn't been to the "track" yet...

So are all the lights shutting off? even the power... I've thought that the green power stayed on....? Hook the volt meter to it and see what your voltage is when the amp shuts down. (see if there is a voltage change that is causing the problem) If the voltage is staying constant, get an ipod or something and hook to the amps for signal and see if they cut ***As I said before pics of the power and ground connections would be helpful. we could better see if you have a obvious connection issue

Funny...... I might add it was a drawing for 750 bucks... they thought they'd do something different and draw it that way... **And I did check to make sure I was the last ticket left in the bucket.. I tried to argue about it... didn't work

I never win anything... I mean anything... Once there was a drawing that the last name remaining in the bucket of tickets was the winner... there were roughly 50-75 entries... they got down to two tickets left in the bucket and mine was still in there.. they drew the next to last ticket out of the bucket and said your winner is..... and they read the ticket in their hand and not my ticket which was the last in the bucket... so even if I should win luck still finds a way for me to lose....

How much do these woofers cost...? I've searched online but found nothing... beefy looking little fella....

I had a swiss 2000 do the same thing yesterday(I just installed it yesterday)... was working fine... turned the car off... got back in and nothing.... it hasn't come back on yet.... I just took the amp (and some $) back on trade for a kicker amp I had sitting around... now I know why the kid was so eager to trade.... Power lights are on, everything looks fine but no ouput... traded him a new zx750.1 for $50 and this amp... grrr.... oh well.... I'll open it up and see if anything looks outta order...

Made in china is stamped all over everything on the clif woofers... the cardboard box, the wooden crate, the woofer..... *** I do like some of my clif products... for the price I pay that is... I wouldn't pay retail for any of it... The cd1200C's I have don't do too they won't handle a ton of power but with low power they still preform pretty well for a cheap "monster" woofer... they weigh like 45lbs, 3" vc..

CLIF isn't built here... hell it's not even packaged here... it's part of the ANABA corporation (MA audio, Visoinik, thump, Mobile authority, ect...) Anaba has a home in the USA (California office) I have clif woofers... they're stamped "made in China" (I believe... I'll check when I get home.. It's some country other than the USA)

speaker wire cause a problem like that.... I'd guess you've got a bad connection somewhere or something has come loose in the amp.. I had a buddy with a soundstream amp that did the same thing... if he'd hit the top of the amp it'd kick back on... then hit it again it'd pop and sound would stop (power lights stayed on)

grrrrr... one of the batts leaked acid all over the carpet.... grrrrrrrrrrrr.... the batt is toast it only holds 10.8v... so down one batt and some carpet... good thing I'm not married.

Check all your connections, otherwise you may end up with a permanent problem... System don't just malfunction like that for no reason..

sorry I misunderstood your voltage the remote line being lower is normal.. Disconnect ALL speakers(tweets included) disconnect the remote line coming from the deck, jumper (on the amp) the remote to the pos terminal... then see if it shuts down again.. make sure and check over all your connections again... **a single speaker being shorted won't cause both amps to shut off... but disconnect them all (disconnect all the speaker wires from the amp) to eliminate variables.. It seems You've got a deck or power issue at this point.. **and pics would be helpful.. Also you should hook your volt meter to the amps while playing to see what the voltage is doing when it shuts down.

^^^ You have quite a bit of voltage drop through the power wire... what gauge is it and how long... Check your fuse/connections under the hood. you may have a bad connection up there... you shouldn't see a .7 drop from front to rear... Can you post some pics of a few things?? connection at the batt, front fuse, amps/wiring at the amps, and gound for the amps... ***I just re-read through the entire thread... originally you stated that the amps didn't go into protect and then later you said both of them do... If both amps are going into protect it's a power issue of some sort... either the remote line or the main positive.. The easiest check would be to jumper the remote line to the positive on the amp and see if it cuts out when you turn it up(don't leave the original remote line connected, just jumper over) *****I'm with the other fella.... what speakers are cutting out if none are hooked up????? do you have some hooked to the deck or something?

batteries are all hooked and on trickle (a couple were floating low... 11.8ish most float at 12.9)... other than that no... I've gotta get the deck wired and I'll be ready to roll.... I may do something tonight.. pending the weather--if it's warm outside I've gotta be out working on the civic's build I have a comp on 2-21 and I have yet to start any building-other than I ran some power wire and rca's. I've got some better detail pics of the internals if anyone want to see them... (I didn't realize the quality was set so low on the camera when I took the first set.)

^^He's stated that it happens to both amps.. I think your problem is at the CD player.. Pull the cd player out and check the wiring.. A shorted speaker lead, remote line ect will cause the cd player to stop sending a signal... Put the Multi-meter on the remote line and turn up the volume until it cuts out and see if the remote voltage is changing.... You've gotta have a short somewhere...