rushnrun

Oh, are you talking about the speaker wire?? I automatically assumed you were talking about the power. You have to pull the boot loose from both the door and the frame. I held the boot as tight as I could with my left hand and fed the wire through with my right. It's a bit of a pain but I got it done. **don't tape the wires that are going through the boot.. the tape sticks to the boot and is a huge pain. *I taped the speaker wire to a very slim/long flat head screw driver (the screwdriver is about 10" long) you only want to tape it to the very tip otherwise you'll never be able to get it off the screw driver to pull it through the boot. **you don't want to use force, you need to take your time and wiggle it through, otherwise you could cut into some of the wiring. *** I haven't found my peak freq yet... From some early testing I'd have to say my truck (the vehicle itself)peaks lower.... which is HORRIBLE for SPL but I'll deal with it... It should do some NASTY hair tricks when it's done

mine's a 5.9L 2wd club cab (rear has no doors) It's just the Lariet (*sp) so I guess I still don't know what you're talking about between the doors? I assume you're talking about your rear doors?? My wire runs went real easy so?... if your's has rear doors the whole rear compartment is probably a little different (the seat mounts and such) I'm gonna do some testing today with my single QC 12 to find the sweet spot. My 10 that I normally use to test with is bottoming out so guess it's seen too much high-power testing (i've had it hooked to 5-6k on several occasions)

what year is that? how did you get the wire through the rubber boot? it's a 96... and which boot???? mine has a big 3-4" boot right through the fire wall.. cut a little x in it and call it a day I removed the boot for now, I won't be running one run of 1/0 for very long (possibly... soon to be multiple of a larger gauge )

when M5 reads this................ anything you listed is capable of getting you a ticket...

on the bright side..... Now the truck HAS to sit... so I might as well work on it

Looks like the truck will sit for a while. nobody carries the straps, they're special order only... woohooo.... good thing I've got extra vehicles.

Minor set-back today.... drove across town... parked the truck... walked about ten feet and heard "SNAP!!!!" thought "huh?" then hearsd "CRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAACCCCCCCCKKKKKKK ........ THUD....." looked back around..... the FuC#ing Gas tank fell out of the truck... Boy do I hate this friggin truck.... I'll get it fixed tomorrow if anyone local has the straps for the tank.. so in the 400 miles I've driven the truck... blew a brake line, transmission went out and now the fuel tank... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..... more build pics sunday!

I fully understand your concern/question... SO breifly.. Been Jobless for three months now (maybe more???). Sold off all my extra vehicles and some of my toys--ok most of the fun stuff--ATV's, Dirt Bikes, Extra LCD TV's, Extra HTS equipment, slimmed down the stereo pile, ect..... I've had the stuff for this build for some time now--(before I ever lost my job), I planned on doing this last year but I didn't have the time for the build with my work (it was originally going into my 99civic). So now I have the stuff and all the time in the world. Only a few odds and ends have to be purchased---metal for the rack and some various wiring, I've already got the aluminum bars for the battery connections.. ---I've got a stack of mdf and OSB as well... the build will only cost about 100 out of my pocket at this time. So I'm pretty well set to utilize my free time. ***I don't condone spending money on things you can't afford, however, after selling off my toys I'm in a fairly confortable position to play for a while (and support myself).. not to mention that my Old lady will/can take care of me (not that I'm planning on taking advantage of that). ****Job market is very terrible here.... there's literally nothing worth going for (Lowes/menards would be about the best choice--9 bucks an hour--wooopty doooo... Not worth my time.....Yet... ). My Old lady is stuck here for one more year then we'll be moving anyway. She's perfectly fine with me not working as long as I continue to sell off my toys/ do some odd jobs to help. Hopefully that satisfies your mind...

Thanks for the feedback fellas. This should be coming together fairly quickly now. I've only got about another week or so to get this up and running. (I won't have time for all the batts and amps but the main box should be done and a temporary amp/battery rack.) Getting started on it RIGHT NOW

ahh.. finally had some time to work on this.. did a little welding today (first time using a mig.... took a few beads to get use to it/adjusted..).. got my "false floor" done... Gives me a nice flat surface to build on. THE plywood is temporary until the final build is in the works. this plywoods gonna look like swiss cheese by the time testing/planning is done.. So far for testing I'm looking at running a pair of 15's and probably 2 1500w mono blocks, 2group 31 batts under the hood, 2 group 31's in the cab for. (Original testing will be with something smaller.. like a single 10 on my 5 channel just to find the sweet spot and tuning) Final design will be 10 group 31's in the bed (already have the batts), 2 15" quad coils and 8 1500w mono blocks (yeah 4-per woofer )

the T5's are decent woofers ***ebay requires paypal for anything these days

I don't know exactly what it is, but mine's been 0% since day one... so don't worry about it.

did a little testing today... Massive P950.5 5 channel amp rated to do 500w at 2 ohm on the sub channel. Power Consumed: 13.22 volts-37amps=489.14watts Power Produced: 38.7 volts-11.8amps=456.66watts 38.7/11.8=3.28ohm so it's almost doing full rated power at 3.28 ohm! and at 36 hz that's roughly 93% efficient at 3 ohm... not too shabby testing was done with a single d2 ohm 10 in a 1.2cubic foot sealed box.. too bad the truck is only doing 127db with a single 10 and 450ish watts.... bummer... I'm doing pre-testing before I do the actual build. the 950.5 will be running my mids and my subs for daily duty---bigher amps for spl use

wow..... awesome vid... x2 on software??

sub up ports back works well.. I've got a buddy w/a 93 full size blazer that we constantly change his setup. the best performance has been the subs up and ports back.. everything up not so good. everything to the rear OK..

I don't think that's gonna do it.... but you never know... a wall would be a better choice (IMO)

I did the same thing to my 05 mazda 6 S-hatch. The car was new and only had a few thousand miles on it. Needless to say I wasn't real happy. that's why the GTI hasn't got a system yet. **I broke mine running two solo x 10's and two zx2500.1's about a 153-54 sealed on the dash

You pretty well are going to have to wall off a civic to fit two.---too much woofer not enough car. there's probably 5 (usable) cubic feet in a civic's trunk. the back seat area... maybe another 7 or 8 cubes (below the window line... so it's possible to use the trunk and the back seat to get enough airspace... designing it will be fun... most likly you'll be building the box in the car... but if you're gonna do all that..... WALL IT not 100% sure what you're trying to explain with your intended box description.. a sketch would help..

Here

welcome IA IL here..

43.5 sq inches would be fine in 2.5cubes... it's pretty close to the 16sq in per cubic foot rule (the rule you stated)

Finished it up... Sounds GREAT!! if you look at the vids turn down your volume---my camera really distorts... Don't worry the stereo doesn't sound like that OK, today I built the subwoofer box, it's 2.8cubic feet tuned to 33hz. Took less than 2 hours from start to finish (Planning, cutting the wood, assembling and covering the box!!) had to rewire some to make slack to mount the amp on the new box (I moved the amp a few inches) the stock battery terms were junk so they had to be replaced, I used two AudioPipe adaptors--rewired and loomed the power and ground so that is all... tadaaaaaa!! about 26 hours worth of labor went into doing this.. just so you know **I didn't really make much money on the deal.. I over did her budget so it cut into my profit.. I'd rather make less and get the job done right than skimp on some things.

The massive 5 channel does the job well.. It won't win you any bass comps but it's more than plenty of power on the single 12. Gives you a good shakin' **the mid channels have the gain set super low... like 1/16-1/8 the sub gain is at 1/8... the whole setup is adjusted so when she turns the bass and volume all the way up nothing will distort or blow. I've adjusted that way because I know how teenage girls are. It sounds really clean with the volume at 2/3'rds and the bass at center. I just know she'll be toying with it. as for sponsored by massive.. I happen to have a few massive items laying around. the install took some of my excess gear off my hands ***off to finish it up.. need to clean up my mess, and clean the interior of the truck... she dropped it off super dirty..

almost done.... I still need to build her a custom box so it fit's under the cargo cover... It'll be 2 cubes tuned 35hz, just a basic box.. here's todays progress... Bottom plate for the x-overs x-over the pair wiring.... the cap, it's mounted to a board that is mounted to the floor. the cable tie-downs are mounted to the same board seat still works amp, rca's amp, power ect... temp sub box I'll get vids later. It sounds REALLY good. very good blend of mids and sub-bass... I think her and her dad will approver.

good eye... it is a grand cherokee.. I didn't think to type in the "grand" So I'm up bright and early to get busy. nothing better than going to bed at two a.m. and getting up at 6a.m. and getting to work. I've gotta get this done so I can get my truck built.!