rushnrun

good test

Is that a MECA headrest score or???? I noticed that the door was open so figured I'd ask... 53hz?

to further test your square waves.... why don't you adjust your volume until the amp is consuming the same current with the sine as the square wave? and meter spl at the same time..? I don't have any square tones or I could/would try myself...

those were the cheapest anaba speakers (the thump brand in general)... junk...

I tried to call you yesterday... not sure if I'll be back in Illinois for this one. I'll be leaving for Flagstaff/Vegas/LA/Spokan on the 16th... I'm not sure how many days/weeks I'll be gone... putting some miles on the Gitty we need to get tyler's stuff done so he can make it.

roughly 2/3 of the flare's length counts as port length (1/4 circumference-- not radius length) (I read this somewhere and have been using it ever since--with good results) hope that makes sense... it may take a little tweaking but that'll get you close (calculating it doesn't do much good on smaller radii--you'll see at the end of the example).. example.... if you use a 3" radius pi(3.14) x d(6) = cir (18.84) since it's a quarter of a circle divide by 4 = 4.71 and using my 2/3 rule = 3.11 length counts toward total port length.. so roughly an eighth inch longer than the radius... so not really even a notable difference...

Others have had trouble as well... I'm not sure what is up with it.. I'll check my profile settings

I've built one 8th order.... a whole lot of effort and very little payout---in my test/opinion... sounded ok at low volumes but didn't yeild much output... ***I could have done something wrong... I've never tried again, 4th and 6th order are much easier to dial in.

Run a router over the edges of the port. helps a little, but I'm talkin a much bigger flare... atleast 1.5" radius or larger (perferably 3-" radius flare)

I like how this gets more spelled out and idiot proof everytime you post it Good luck with the trades... if I only had some good amps to trade for some 1500's and a couple 15's...

Good deal... Looks like my truck will stay with the 2-15's for the rest of the season. I didn't realize that finals is in less than two months... not a big deal but I'm taking a 2 week out-of state vacation here in a couple of weeks... I just won't have the time to put any effort into dialing in anything new.. guess the box mods better pull through.

Ight so saying that is it safe to say i can turn my amps input level max and the fuses wont blow??? the fuses won't blow... but don't just turn the gain all the way up.... you can set the gain using a basic multi-meter as well, but a scope is preferred but not practical for most.

Just because they claim it...... it must be true...... even if it's against the laws of physics.... we tried...

those amps can be picked up for 130 brand new btw... try looking into a better quality amp for your BTL...The Sundowns are the big performer around here... even the SAZ1000D would out perform the amp you have now..

If your amp has 90 amps of onboard fusing there is no way it's able to produce 3500watts... Basic math that you've already done yourself... 12volts, 90 amps, 80%efficient=864watts... I'm not saying that the amp can't do a little more but I would say it's a 1000watt peak amp and no where near 3500. **even at 14volts it's only good for roughly 1000watts adjust your gains properly for best performance... turning up the gain knob will be detrimental if you clip the signal.. if you're running that high-quality/expensive of a woofer, why don't you look into a better amp?

if it's a common chambered box then no you can't... you'll end up blowing the other woofer.. if they were divided chambers then it'll be ok

By all means try the poly fill... I'd like to see the results... I'd try it for you but my box is already tuned lower than necessary (if it's tuned any lower my peak will be sub 30hz...). To "flare" my ports I use PVC cut in quarters or sonotube... ***port length may matter but it'd be a hard thing to test... with less port you need more volume... more volume changes things along with the new port length... You're getting REAL in depth with this keep up the testing...!

good quick read... it show's that some of my ideas on polyfill were way off... so read it

IMO: Poly-fill and SPL applications won't play well together.. (this may not be 100% dead on but you'll get the idea of my opinion on polyfill) IMO the polyfill will reduce the airflow by adding restriction--causing the port to seem longer or the enclosure to seem larger--lowering the apparent tuning.. however, I think that the restriction caused by using the poly fill will also have the same result as shrinking the port (actually I think you'll see an even bigger drop in spl.. It'll be very hard to tun with the polyfill---I don't know of anyway to calculate for adding polyfill).. Polyfill is know for making boxes/woofers sound lower, it's not know for gaining SPL... IMO it's not a good choice for SPL... Just for reference--my only experience with polyfill and a ported box... I added polyfill to a 2cube box with one 4" areo tuned 35hz to see if it'd play a little lower/sound a little better.. It did sound better at low volumes but it fell on it's face at higher output levels (had tons of port noise compared to the non-filled box), at the time I didn't have an SPL meter so I can't tell you what it lost or if it did... Trying adding an internal flare to the end of your port... I'm sure it won't be easy but I've had more gains from flaring the port than anything else (given that I'm already pushing the limits of port area and length) We sat with my buddies full size blazer one day and gained almost 2db by just adding flares to the port and box face

what exactly do you have now (not what you plan on, but what you own right now)? Model numbers, brand...ect.. Sub: Amp: Head Unit: Wiring (gauge?): are you able to build your own box? It's always handy to know what you're trying to replace/upgrade.

The amp you're looking at may be a good 800 watt amp but not anywhere near 2000watts... what they say (max) and what they'll actually do are two different things... for 400 you're not going to get "crazy output" you can get better than you have.... but not "crazy"

Good deal... so how's your build coming? I'm not changing much yet... just bracing up the box and doubling the baffle... then I'll see where the score goes and work from there... I'm hoping my insane amount of box flex is/was causing loss in output... we'll see... I've braced stuff up before and lost DB... so you never know..

Mine is tuned LOW... It'll all coming out today for the rebuild... still hunting 3-5ore DB.... *****This is all in fun BTW..... Lack of smilies in your last post makes it look angry... I'm just messing with ya so don't take it seriously if you did...

If it's a pioneer it's the internal "fuse" like everyone has stated... just gound your rca's and it'll go away... eventually buy a new deck and make sure it's not a pioneer.... It's VERY easy to cause the death of the pioneer RCA's... one oops and it's over.. I love them but I'll never own one again..

Tyler'd do it... Doesn't look like the ram is going anywhere... so should be same ole same.... I'll be working on the box this week.. right now I'm 3db down due to a broken baffle... Darn 20hz waves I knew it'd happen somtime with the single baffle and no bracing I also noticed that I forgot to screw the sides down... I was in a hurry when I built it... Just fiberglass holding the sides on (other than the screws in the baffle, ****I did find a del sol that I could do a nice 4th order BP in **I'll be heading to Vegas soon to visit Jeremy.. so I'm not sure how much I'll get done... I planned on being there on the 10th or so...