DedicatedEnthusiast

Wondering on average how much true amperage the bc3500d draws at 1-ohm. I've heard everything from its 300 amp fuse load to half the fuse rating to one third operationally. Electrical wise I am currently running a 275 amp singer alternator with a yellow top under the hood and one xp3000 in the trunk. Voltage ranges from 13.5-13.8 on a clean signal and drops as low as 13.2 once I start clipping which I know consumes power and produces excess heat. The alt does around 200 amps or so at idle. My question is what if anything beyond my current electrical would be recommended for this upgrade. Thank you in advance for any information. Phil

Thanks guys, sounds like the EB flex is my best bet.

SOLD

Sencheezy I live in Parma Ohio. Anyone who is interested may feel free to pm me but I am serious about the price because the amp is in mint condition, comes packaged just as it arrived to me from crescendo and has hardly been used.

Hmmm ok...I'll try that link out on my computer at home after work today but what do u mean by use the image tags and will the pics actually upload to photobucket then? Sorry I am still sort of new to the forum posting thing. For those who are interested or are woondering price is $325 shipped pics will hopefully be posted later on thisevening if I can figure out how to get them up that soon.

I get off work at 7 today so pics can be supplied as soon as I receive feedback after that time

Sorry for the delayed response been workin hella hours due to the holidays

I am currently on my third high output alternator in this car. Both my yellow top under the hood and xp3000 in the trunk have been tested for bad cells etc. they are each fine. There is no indication of belt slip occurring whatsoever not even silent. Big three upgrade is in place. The alt charges perfectly fine for a week or so then just stops putting out amperage as if its a regulator gone bad or rectifier bridge that's somehow over worked itself. Besides mounting it there is a run of positive to the battery from the charging stud and a one-wire charge lead that I splice into a 12v connection for the regulator to operate off of so I don't understand where the issue is coming from as it seems quite cut and dry that everything is installed and should be working properly.

No shizzzon he said it was either due to where I had wired the regulator to or a bad regulator from the manufacturer. The stock plug input could have been bleeding or leaking voltage causing the regulator to over work itself when the car was off.

Thanks for the info and for your input SacredTanakh

Talked with Singer himself and have more or less resolved the issue. He is a great guy committed to customer service. Stands behind his product and then some

How do you check for resistance in a positive run of wire? I thought you could only get a stock built up so big and I don't drive fast that I know of. Car is an automatic btw

It is a Singer alternator. How would I evaluate the status of my cable?

Computer controls have been bypassed as well due to the one wire regulator design

Singer. 275 amp does around 200 or so at idle. Got a bc2000d at one ohm

I do have a multimeter no ammeter. How would I go about narrowing it down?

Please guys yield any information or suggestions you may have

Haha thanks though you guys are super cool on here the lack of judgment is greatly appreciated

Nvm just looked it up lol

Ok sweet and by pm do you by chance mean e-mail? I am new to the forum thing here use to just scrolling through them never really posted anything before.

I will attempt to post pics of the trunk soon and have you guys honestly tell me whether I should stick with a custom enclosure for the two 12 in. Fi SSD's I currently own or if it would be worth it to upgrade to a Sundown Zv4 15 on a Crescendo bc3500d in my crazy half-ass hatch

Bassink that is exactly what I am looking for, bass that I can strictly feel and see vehicle flex from for days.

In response to frogcase2002 Mobile Sound Works built the enclose. Online company that I already know mass produces pre-fab boxes that probably aren't built to spec so I am sure having a custom enclosure built by yourself will make a major difference

Lol sry may have gone a bitt too far into explanation there. The pics I will post soon (as long as I can figure out how to do so) will show what my trunk looks like as of now but by cutting out a portion of it in an attempt to get louder I only lost output on the lower frequencies which was what I was trying to gain in the first place

I guess what I'm afraid of is going through all the hassle of selling my current subs, amp, and box only to upgrade to the same "airy" bottom-out sort of sound I'm getting on the lows as of now. I want the sub to be able pick up anything and everything 26-34 hz and audibly hear esp. feel the lows that it can produce. Right now I have two 12 in. Fi SSD's tuned to 32 hz in a 4 cu. ft. slot ported enclosure off a Crescendo bc2000d and they flex hard as hell but somehow lack on the lows. I need to find a way to pressurize the sound that I produce like I use to have when I had an enclosed trunk lol only reason I ever cut a portion of it out was because I read that hatchbacks are almost always louder with less power but I'm starting to think that's only number/SPL wise:/