jalat

what car is it going into... looks like an olds?

RE-Q not the 5 channel. LPF is at around 100hz Subsonic is around 25hz Gains are full on the RE-Q Subwoofer is a dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms, and bridged on the ZED Subwoofer is defiantly not playing any vocals Some of the guys on another forum are saying the the RE-Q might not be able to take the balanced signal from the BA amp and is causing it to act funny.

System consists of the following: • 2010 and up Camaro drivers side large stealth enclosure from Subthump • Knukonceptz 4AWG wiring and interconnects and speaker wire • MTX RE-Q • Subthump T-Harness (used so that we DO NOT splice into the factory wiring) • 12" Fi Q (dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms w/ all options and high qts) • ZED Audio Kronos bridged @ 4 ohm (1000rms) There are a couple things that seem to be off. For one, we are using the factory headunit and thought that the RE-Q would be perfect because of the bass restoration, and the fact that the Kronos needs unbalanced grounded preouts (as said by Steve from ZED). Now, due to the fact we havent installed any bass blockers on the factory BA system, we made the bass on the headunit to -5, mid @ -1 and treble to +1. What baffles me is the fact that the gains on the MTX RE-Q as well as the Kronos have to be set all the way up before any sound comes out of the subwoofer. Now the Kronos has 2 built in clipping indicators so I know for a fact that I am not clipping the subwoofer. I read that the RE-Q is supposed to boost the lower frequencies of the stock system so that there is no need to have cranked gains and such, or lose preout voltage on the RCAs.... So my question is, why must we have the gains so high on both the MTX RE-Q and Kronos to obtain proper sound? My next issues has to do with the amount of light dimming on the interior lights as well as the amplifier. 4AWG wiring is used with a 100A fuse for power (at about 6 feet in length) and my ground cable is about 4 feet in length. The battery is in the trunk, and whats looks to be about 2AWG wiring is used for factory ground and alternator charging wire. Whenever the system is turned up, there is a significant amount of dimming going on with the interior lights (dash, dome light, etc.) but here is the catch..... The amp at near full tilt is getting 13V at the lowest, so it doesn't seem like there is a voltage issue what so ever. So my question is, If my voltage is alright to the amplifier and batt, why is there such a significant amount of dimming? Overall, I am very impressed with this system and would just like to clean up these issues so the owner can enjoy his finished system. Thanks in advance, Mike

when set flat, to zero, the stock speakers are distorting at the listening volume needed, to keep up with the subwoofer... that is the only reason it is set so low.

what i meant was, once i installed a knukonceptz capacitor in a friends system. it gave me charging instructions. it told me to use the provided tiny capacitor and attach it to the positive power wire. hold there for 1 minute, then connect the power wire without the tiny cap

Ya i'm baffled by all of this too. As a matter of fact, I have a capacitor sitting at home, I believe it is a 1 farad Stinger one. Thing is, I have no idea whether it is charged or not, or if its been dis-charged, or how i go about installing it without the capacitor you are supposed to use...

Evening bump.

When measured with my multimeter set to DC voltage i got 0 volts on the RCA's which is good because that means that the signal is now unbalanced going into the kronos (or the other way around if i got them mixed up) And Ken, as far as I know it's a 100A alt. The car is brand new with only 20,000km on it, so i doubt its an alt issue

From the factory BA amp, we have 6V DC floating going into the RE-Q

On the door panels? Ya. It's a pain to stretch but it turned out well

something to dream about tonight.

Any updates?

I just shat my pants.

I was thinking just under 2 cubic feet per chamber @ 33hz, with LOTS of port area

I plan on running two 12" IXL's off a SAZ-2000D @ 1 ohm. Electrical will consist off: - two runs of positive 1/0 (one from alt, one from batt) - three runs of ground to chassis in 1/0 (in the trunk) - yellow top in the front - NSB 75 in the trunk - stock alt Will the subs take the power daily? Goal is to make a 39.9 bassrace machine.

Alright sounds good. I know the kind of power the SAZ is capable of, so I wanna be sure that the woofers will be up to the challenge, cause i know it doesn't take much power for these IXL's to get loud.

0.5 ohm stable for daily?

This all depends whether you are talking a daily setup or comp setup. I wouldn't do more than 5k daily.

You should have used fiberglass resin on that sonotube since its only made of hard cardboard. Couple layers will make it rock solid.

Will this amp run @ 0.5 ohm daily with: 2 runs of positive in 1/0 4 runs of ground in 1/0 (to the frame) Optima Yellow Top as starter batt Batcap 2000 in the trunk Stock alt (100A) Has anybody ever run this amp @ a 0.5 ohm load?

SAZ 2000D from db-r

Thanks for everyones imput

A friend of mine has the exactly same electrical setup as me in a ford explorer and he has been running his AQ 2200d @ 0.5ohm daily and everyone said he couldnt. 1500rms isnt going to be enough for my liking.... thats why i wanna drop it down to 0.5 ohm. Its hard finding an amp that will do good power @ 2 ohms (in Canada) without spending a shit load of money. I can get either the Saz-2000D or T30001BD for $450

I plan on running a 15" Sundown Nightshade (v1) and its a dual 1 ohm. Its either the t30001bd or a saz-2000d, but i want the amp to run @ 0.5 ohm.

The more time spent on prepping the enclosure (eg sanding, filler, and more sanding) the better the outcome will be in the end. I can't stress this enough... TAKE YOUR TIME. Looks good so far