Ndnkobra

Hey everyone, I just wanted to get some opinions on these speakers for my fronts (6 1/2") and rears (5 1/4"). http://www.ebay.com/itm/HITRON-5-25-5-1-4-SPEAKERS-4-WAY-PAIR-300W-HS-5254-CHEAPER-THEN-KENWOOD-ALPINE-/120972470424?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item1c2a856898 Now before anyone says anything about the "max" power RMS rating, I'm not looking for that. I'm just looking to replace factory speakers without any hook ups to amplifiers or anything of the sort. The reason being is that the ones that I have now with the factory radio already play distorted, and I'm almost 99% sure that when I install a new HU in that they will pop. If anyone has any other suggestions or speakers they can direct me to, that would be great. I'm on a budget and not looking for anything fancy. Thanks again!

Good call. It'll have to be in the next system upgrade within the future when I decide to buy a new deck. The Alpine Cde-121 that I bought, unfortunately only has 1 set of outputs in the back which will be dedicated to my monoblock amp for the sub. But if I'm going to upgrade in the future, I may as well save up to do it right. Any suggestions on your part?

Hey everyone, I was just looking into buying the female adapter end for my '03 Civic radio harness so I don't have to chop anything up in there. Everything seems straight foward except a couple of wires that I'm not really sure how to match them up. Here's the color coordinations for each harness. 03 Stock Harness: Radio 12v: Red/White Radio Ground: Black Radio Ignition/Acc: Yellow/Red Radio Illumination: red/black Factory amp turn on: N/A Power Antenna: N/A Female Harness: Aftermarket HU harness: Power Antenna Lead (Blue) . Remote Turn-On Lead (Blue/White) Audio Interrupt In Lead (Pink/Black) Illumination Lead (Orange) Switched Power Lead (Ignition) (Red) Battery Lead (Yellow) Ground Lead (Black) So as you can see, most of the wires match up pretty easily. There are some wires like power antenna, dimmer, illumination that I'm not going to use because they aren't included within the aftermarket HU. My two questions are: What am I going to do about the 12V ignition/accessory wire that is in the stock harness, but not in the female end of the harness? Also, what in the world is the "memory" wire for? I have never seen that in my life. Thanks again guys!

Hey guys, I know this is kind of a lame thread created for the product, but I thought I'd give it a shot. Never know if anyone has spare wire that they don't need and wouldn't mind getting rid of it. I'm looking to buy 4 gauge power wire, preferabally in two different colors for my amp. The wire should be able to handle at max 150A of current. And as you guessed, I'm trying to get a cheap price on it since I'm running tight on cash. I'm looking for about 15' on one wire and 5' on the other. I know I'm knit picking right now, but I'd appreciate it if they were OFC and somewhat name brand (KnuKonceptz, Stinger, Kicker, RF). I'll pay $20 for it all. Thanks again!

Happy birthday Ferdinand! And wow, 13 years old. He's looking good for 13. Props to the owner for taking such good care of him

Ah, thanks Impious! I'm grateful for your help. I'm under the assumption that the male and female pins in the harness should automatically line up and correspond with each other. Ex. 12v Radio (Red/White) pin will match up with "Memory" (Yellow) pin.

I thought something like this would happen soon. It's very sad though, because to this day the very first amp (and still run) is the ED Nine.1 amplfier. Their products were good, but it's real unfortunate that they weren't able to maintain an efficient business.

Depends on your goals. If you're trying to body build and you're an ectomorph, you could try mass gainers which are powders full containing carbs and protein along with a lot of other micros. If you're not looking to bump up size and/or just looking to maintain weight, stick to whey protein or get your protein from whole foods. Whatever is most convenient. As far as types of protein (casein, whey, egg, etc) they all have their purposes. Casein is usually ingested right before you go to bed so your body has something to nom on while you sleep, and repairs muscles effectively. Whey, like as many people mentioned, digests quickly. Usually they're taken right after workouts. Egg is somewhere in the middle. If you're going to stick with whey, they only real problem you'll have is picking the brand, which usually determines how well it is going to blend and what it's going to taste like. If you don't mind taste or flavors, get any old cheap whey protein, even if it's generic. Strictly for whey protein, make sure you check the ingredients label and make sure you're getting quality calories from protein, and not from sugar or anything like that.

Hey guys, just a simple question and looking for some opinions on how the quality of a music file on a USB flash drive compares to, lets say an Ipod via USB connection. What are your thoughts? And are there any noticeable differences?

Oh I agree with that. I'd imagine going from that kind of green to something like blue, orange or orange/red would be huge sellers and popular amongst folks. That's what the next poll should be on. Most requested color

Wonderful! This seems like a great and straight forward product that I'm already interested. Although in your best interest, I wouldn't be surprised due to the fact that it's user adjustable that someone makes a mistake in their math of AC voltage output while setting their gains and makes the wrong level adjustments and fries their equipment. Then you get a nasty email claiming that your product didn't warn them as described. Dealing with that would be such a pain. I know almost everyone on this forum has had a previous build and knows what they're doing with their amps and speakers, but there's always that someone...

This is a great product. And as a question about the AC/DC Voltage/Current locations, could you make some examples for us folks that wouldn't know which spots to wire the meter up to? For DC Voltage, I would say simply say the Positive terminal on the battery or wherever you can locate your typical 12V power source, like the wire on your cigarette lighter. For amperage, I would assume at the positive terminal at the battery as well? AC Voltage/Current has me a little confused. The only place I can think of are the positive and negative speaker terminals on an amplifier but then again I'm a novice at this stuff.

Great responses guys! And thanks for the help. Another thing that came across my thoughts were the amount of music files stored on a USB drive. Wouldn't it take any type of head unit a good amount of time to load and read music files? I'd assume if a drive is holding onto over 5000 songs, that it would take forever for the files to show up unless the read speed of the drive itself is quick. I could be wrong though since everyone that's posted so far is in favor of mass storage devices

Ah very well put. I'm guessing in terms of ease of use, the interface and control of an Ipod would be easier to manage than a USB Flash drive. But quality wise, if they're both mp3 files, they're going to sound the same.

Bump!

Loving this setup man. Great job

As long as the amp isn't sending a clipped signal to your speakers, you're fine. As for the line of amp, stick with the BRE line. I've had friends with the HiFi's...and let's say their luck with them was not so great.

I had a similar problem once, but it was because one of the coils went bad. Like Impious mentioned, check out the SSDs and see if there's a problem.

I have a question, it might sound stupid but i've been wondering about it for a while. its about a damplified trunk versus one that isnt. Of course, when a sub makes a sound (namely bass) in a trunk that isnt so sturdy, or the subs just hit really hard, it makes a rattling. Does the sound (bass) that is emitted from the trunk rattle, actually lost bass? Like the sound is converted into that shitty noise rather than transfering into the cabin, and hearing a more pleasant bass? And if a trunk gets damplified (thats just the wording i use ), the dampening mat does a job of stopping that noise, but does it just do that? What i mean is, it'll stop the rattle, but will the bass still be lost and absorbed due to the matting, or will it travel into the car cabin like its supposed to? Thanks for any answers guys!

Hey guys, i'm looking for 1/0 gauge wire for a big 3 upgrade. I was researching some wire and it seems that 1/0 is pretty damn expensive. I stumbled across this brand knukonceptz which was the cheapest, and i had to post something to get feedback, because i noticed in their description that their wires are made up of 90% aluminum and 10% copper. Now for an amplfier i wouldn't care, but i'm pretty sure for a big three upgrade i'm looking for least resistance, and that wire is basically all aluminum. I'm not trying to bash the company, but would you guys recommend this wire for a big three upgrade, or should i go off looking for something that has pure copper threading in it. Thanks for any answers! P.S: If anyone can strike me a deal on some 1/0 gauge wire for cheap, that would be great! i know its pretty expensive, but i'm looking for something around 20ft for around $40 :X or 40ft for around $80.

Hey guys, i was looking into batteries for the near future because my stock one just isnt really doing it for me right now. The well known XS brand stuck out to me, and i saw that their batteries have beastly current output, but i was also looking at Optima batteries, and i wasn't sure which is the better of the two. XS has more output for current, but Optima has a "gel layered top", whatever the hell that means. I'm leaning toward XS but if anyone can explain to me the pros and cons of each battery, and whatever the heck gel layered top means, it would greatly be appreciated!

I'm just really looking to power a 1200 watt system without any voltage drops, and if i ever need to in the future, possibly upgrade to 2000 max. I probably should do the big 3 upgrade first, but planning ahead never hurts. If the big 3 upgrade isn't enough for the flickering lights to stop, then an after market battery will have to do.

You guys have seen how much crap my trunk has to go through, EVEN I get annoyed with how much noise it makes, thats why i'm looking to improve on what i have. I have to admit that i have stopped at a few stop lights with the trunk ripping apart, but it wasnt intentional. Sometimes you just get so used to the way your system sounds and how loud it is, that you kind of forget that its even really there, if that made any sense at all. But i do have to fade my woofers pretty low in order to get that trunk rattling away. I try to be respectful for the most part, especially in the morning, no one wants to wake up to that crap. I started to realize this when i got my first noise complaint and i realized that bass really does travel :x anyways, hopefully i can go from trunk junkie to bass head within a few months!

Hey guys, long time since i've actually posted on here. I've recieved my 2 12' FI Q's a few months ago, and i have to say, great subs. Beastly handling, but what i'm about to show you is kind of pathetic. I took my first video of these subs, and i have to say it isn't the best, but it gets the general idea of what i need to work and improve on. First i'd like to say that i'm only 16 and i had minimal help in installing this system. Therefore i didnt have any money to invest in a deck or any half decent equipment , what can you do when you don't have money? So here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaACs2NjaEA Its not really a video to show off, but i'm seeing it as more of a review for a critique. I was going to post this in the Fi forum, but i didnt want to become the laughing stock in there for showing that kind of , You can already see that there ar a couple of hate comments under there.Now if you guys can stick through that and watch that crappy video that i posted, you notice that everything in there is stock and that the plastic paneling is rattling like crazy. Any helpful ideas? I'm more interested in finding out how to get that plastic panel to stop hitting against the back windshield, because thats what creates the shitty noise. I was thinking of trying some sound deadening under the panel, then using some silicon adhesive to seal the panel down. If anyone has any input on how to make this system any better, i'd be glad to hear some responses. Thanks!

Hey guys, i seem to be having a few problems with my system just a couple days ago and i was wondering if you guys have any idea of what might be going on before i go searching for the problem myself. I have 2 12" FI Qs running at 600 watts each, so an overall of 1200. Just a couple days ago i was testing a few songs on the system, nothing out of the ordinary, everything was working fine. I've has this system for about a month now and no problems occured till recently. Then a day went by where the car was idle, and then the day after that the car wouldn't start; the battery died. I couldn't figure out what happend because the car was completely off after the day i tested it, then 2 days later the battery is dead. After a jumpstart it was fine, but it still puzzles me on how the battery could have died while the car was off. After the jump start, i turned the car on, played the system on low volume for a few seconds and turned it off. This is when i noticed a weird burning rubber smell coming from the passenger side of the car. I couldn't see anything, but my guess is that the current may have burned some of the insulation off the wire. Its a 1500 watt wire, but you never know. I've unplugged the power cable, the remote wire and the rcas from the amp and there was no burning smell after that so i'm guessing something is up with one of the wires. If you guys have any ideas on what could have happend i'm all open for suggestions, and suggestions on how to fix these problems. thanks!