DeeCee

More tomorrow.. maybe Its 1.38am here.. i'm going to sleep

That is awesome - nice numbers

Actually guys, I was being unbiased in my opinion even though I am a distributor of sundown. The Audioque pushes out the numbers, but at 14.4v. Jacobs numbers are done at 12.8V testing. Unregulated power supply means that output goes up as voltage goes up. Hence why I provided the testing post as the real numbers are closer than expected. Then I looked at the aesthetic side of life with a chitty pic of the Audioque guts. That doesn't tell me anything about the amp and if it would integrate with an install well or even look good. It could be just a plain heatsink and look like chit, or it could look bloody great, but I don't know that because they don't have a decent product pic. Its $20 difference between teh audioque and the sundown. I know what the sundown looks like vs the guts of an amp and I know the power output difference @ 14.4V is around 250 - 300W - we dont' know the power ratings at 13.8 or 12.8V on the audioque so its not as easy to compare output. As for support, i know that Jacob @ Sundown and Chris @ DB-R are focussed on providing a more personalised service. For me that is more important knowing that they are accessible, even though they are very busy people, if i have questions or queries. For $20 more, having soemthing that I know looks good, pulls numbrs and has good support wins the day.. nuff said.

Done

Looking good

why not get 2x 100.2s instead of bridging a 50.4? or going to another 100.4 instead of having 3 amps for speaker duties unless you are trying to have defined speaker seperation..

I'd go for Sundown. Considering there is no product shot of the heatsink and you know that there is very good support behind the amplfier, its an easy decision to make. Check the sundown power testing here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7900 Personally, the look of the Sundown is very smart and sublime without being overly garish or flashy. The looks certainly fit well with numerous system designs and your BTL will love it. I'll be running a 3000D very soon with a RE MT18 in 8cu ft in my work car - theoretical numbers have the MT sitting around 150 odd for burps. If you run the sundown and know your res freq of the blazer, i'd be willing to take the time to design a box specifically for your car and predict some numbers for you

no its not rocket science but there is physics involved and understanding how everything works makes things more interesting

except when the person who gets on teh roof has metal studs on their jeans or shoes or wearing any sort of metal lol

Dependant on the amplifier or headdeck, a bass boost increases the volume at one particular frequency. The problem with that is a) knowing what that frequency is and b) understanding what that boost does to the signal. I've generally found that a bass boost doesn't provide a clean signal, so imagine if you input a dirty signal into your amplifier, you have more potential to distort the subwoofer making a situation where you can damage your sub.

ideally a system should be set up with an oscillioscope to ensure that you are not clipping the system into magic smoke. So gains would ideally be at a specific level. First things first though, you have to find your cars resonant frequency. From there, testing with an o-scope is used to determine a) headunit clipping point, b) amp clipping point - both for the specific frequency If you don't have the means to set up the gains with an o-scope, dependant on the system i'd set the gains around 1/2 first and then roll your volume up until you peak out. That would be your system limit. You can slowly creep up the gain a little bit and a little bit more, but I tend not to push things past 2/3rds on an amp If you guys can provide some pics of the boot area, then it would be helpful just to see how much room there is to move stuff around. Oh and no bass boost or eq tricks to push it up. It doesnt' really have much of an effect if you are playing a single tone.

i have never heard of closing air vents to be a violation of dbdrag rules. Its a normal function of the car, so I def agree it should be done. Pressing on the trunk lid or putting pressure on the roof has decreased SPL potential in all cars I have seen thus far and i've done some pretty extensive testing over the years.

corner load the sub ie move the box and aim it into the corner of the car opposite to the mic whatever side the mic is on, move the seat as far forward as possible and fold forward only press on the door side which the mic is located on depending on how big your 45s are will impact the increase or decrease in result. I generally use small 45s which don't impact much on the overall box volume to decrease deadspots at the wall intersections. I also resin out my comp enclosures as well, though it seems that this won't be a viable option for this particular box

Nope.. diff DeeCee. This is DeeCee from New Zealand aka FlexD2 on some other car forums. And Leigh stuck his leg out because he couldn't fit himself all the way in the box. there was no one else around to jump on it

I thought it might be fun to chuck this up here. The lada has moved on now, but it was a great learning experience. The idea behind the lada was to learn more about SPL, learn about walls and apply some theoretical knowledge I had. I covered SS 1-2NW, Street Max 1-2 with 1 sub, then a second sub. In the end, I maxed out at 152.6dB which I thought was quite good off 1 batt and a 4000D. Here we go - please note that the text accompanying the pictures is just a straight cut and paste of when i wrote it up on the local forums. --------------- Okay, so I decided to start a little bit early on the SS 1-2 NW box. Early meaning start a week out before hand instead of 3 days This is a test on a couple of things that i want to try in the future and setting up the car for the future - wood inserts and how strong they are, their application within boxes basically - testing the MT's and the surfboard (will be loading down to .25 nominal load with impedance rise expected to push over 1ohm making it safe for the fusion to run both subs in parallel/parallel instead of series/parallel - the triboard - lighter & thicker, but already encountering a couple of probs here and there. - setting up the battery, the wiring for the vehicle Here are the build pics of this auspicious build Hershey overseeing work done on the Lada project Holes for cable glands for the 70mm2 power cable. 2 runs positive, 2 runs negative Wide view of holes. Initially i was using a cheap hole saw set bit and i chewed through it in 1.5 holes. The drill bit also slipped and fell out numerous times and a crub screw broke in half.. so i went out and bought a half decent ryobi holesaw set for $56 bucks Starting the box - 1000x1000x4000 external dimensions with 36mm triboard and two different ports tuned to 65hz, the port is 160mm long and peaks at 70hz in BB6 (will add BB6 graphs later) With 3000w, the subs in hit 138.6db in BB6. Add approx 15db for cabin gain, transfer function etc and you get 153.6db = new SS 1-2 NW record - i would normally say 17 db (as it is what i have used and predicted before) but i'm being cautious here. This is a one hit wonder box.. for tuning to 45hz, teh port is 2m long 3" screws to hold the bugger together lol - i'm recycling as much wood as possible but still need to keep the box together because of the less dense / wood chip style triboard that i'm using.. box is solid as though it is the best box i've built thus far - not most complicated, as that was with the loading wall in Scoobs big box of fun, but this is a very good box Box skeleton: the base and top are two pieces. This is because i don't have full sheets, so glue and join together and reinforce Glue1 Sam jizzed on the box.. dirty boy To ensure the walls stayed correct distance apart, i used a 928mm piece to keep them seperate - its only a one body box though.. shame - could do two people, but would have to chop them up. Testing the tolerances of the box top and the positin of the fasteners, i broke out the MT and placed some washers where i wanted teh position of the fasteners to be. This was far too close, so i spaced them out another 10mm each side Its big.. so big that some initial measurements had the box so narrow that i couldn't fit them into the box - further checking of the box showed that i could get them in i accidently dropped a washer on the magnet and it stayed upright.. so i decided to take a break and have some fun drilled holes in the top plate to screw into the side walls holes finally - so nice and clean don't mind the factory grommet to the left.. it will have its plug put back in. fitment of the cable glands - don't want the warrant man to have a epi over me not doing it properly! supporting rods for the box to support subs, and bind top and bottom plates. 1 between subs, 3 to distribute sub weight load across sub plate and two for port piece support plate over join in base/floor of wood - they line up - yay! this will shore it up and be strong! how the plate and rods will fit in the end me and the jigaboo attacking the 36mm.. it took an age and a half with a firestorm. To be honest, i am guessing that a dewalt, metabo or bosch wouldn't have made it any easier. Start stop, start stop.. blade was just long enough and settings were on max and pendulum action as well. After a while i actually had to stop and let the jigaboo cool down it had got so hot! Checking fitment of the sub I'm like a mechanic - see the box size - barely a one body box! there is about 50 - 60mm from the back plate of the sub to the box floor.. bit of a tight squeeze kat with a hat me with a hat.. and no, i'm not going to do a Leia - too f'ing heavy! it fits

Cheers I plan as much as possible in my head to ensure that the results come out as i expect them to. This build worked out pretty well, though in the end, I didn't have the time to fully complete what I wanted to do with the vehicle. The work car is getting some stuff done for the local series that is happening, so hopefully, I'll finish with some time to spare and get some proper testing done

They sound very good, pretty close to other top end speakers i've heard, though the tweeter has to be attenuated down as it is quite bright. The mids need some serious power in them to get them pumping, but overall, they are a well matched set that plays music very transparently without fatiguing the ears either.

Actually, the headunit is all in english. The japanese buttons you see at the top are for the trip computer etc. The fun ones are the japanese OEM navigation systems that are integrated in with the AC control as one unit that displays on a screen.

The steering wheel is on the correct side of the car, just like it we drive on the correct side of the road as well I'll get some pics of the rack in its final place later

Huh... i thought i put up these photos to this, but obviously not

People in boxes

Kat going hard with the router. The inside edge was also rounded off. We wanted to get the front plate in place, so we got busy test fitting it in and measuring it up. Box joins inside were sealed up with some no more gaps. Sexy big ass box! Mwahahahahaha :twisted: Me drilling holes for the front plate. Front plate mounted on to box and sub mounted into front plate. As per usual (and for some weird reason we always get into our boxes lol!!) me in the box doing something - wiring most likely.

Just like a rainbow Because of the time constraints, I removed the spacer after the glue had been setting for around 15 minutes. The glue is basically superglue, so initial contact grip is high and I had no fear of the coil moving out of alignment. I used a surplustronics 8" to put weight on the dustcap which was glued on with the same glue. Done like a done thing 2nd MT cleaning time - got to get rid of all the small stuff for clean contact between surround and basket! Same spacer, 2nd MT Back to the box. As you can see, I added threaded wood inserts all the way around the frame of the box to allow the front wall to be moved to any position I want to. box takes up a pile of room! and its damn beautiful! Front plate made of 3 sheets of 28mm ply sandwiched together. We didn't have a large enough compass this time around to measure the hole, so we used the old cut out from the SS1-2NW box. See, pays to have offcuts around :up:

Cardboard spacer for the coil alignment. Interesting note: I initially was going to use cut pieces of cardboard like I did with the XXX recone. Problem was that the I tired it and the gap was even less than the XXX So I tired manilla folder cardboard = fail, plastic sleeve material = fail, 3 different types of cardboard = fail. In the end, I found some cardboard that fit between the coil and the yoke like a glove. There was very little movement between the two, so was the perfect spacer. I marked out the point at which the cardboard hit the back plate and marked off to ensure that when the coil was over the yoke, the spacer was as far down as possible to ensure as perfect alignment as possible. Bloody beautiful mate! As you can see, I used some offcuts to hold the recone up while I applied the glue. Glue for spider ready to affix. Tip: Affix spider before affixing surround. Also, I'll most likely get a dremel and smooth out the vents on the basket under the spider to improve air flow and cooling next recone time Its always a close thing when working with 3 layer stiff spiders. Clamp Peg Super Force Kaa-pow! Was a little bit of a tight fit with the 3 layer spiders and the under edge of the MT basket. The new pegs worked out great! Glue time for the surround. It always pays to have a very clean and even surface when putting a surround down The start of things to come

One broken track on the coil - burnt out as explained in last update build post. The coil was so out of alignment that the coil rubbed on the yoke Me cleaning up the 2nd MT for the recone During this time of reconing, I had popped off the RE MT dustcap and had it sitting around. Kat had one of the reactor 8's around, so I thought it would be funny to chuck the MT dustcap on the Reactor to see if it would fit. And it did! So started the REactor8" that we used in our initial Krazy8 attempt at SLAP in November Inerestingly enough, when doing recones, I use the clamping force of washing pegs to ensure that there is an even load when pushing the surround onto the basket. I was just about to recone the first MT when I realised that I didn't have enough pegs to do the recone. There is a lot of surface area to cover on the lip and spider of the MT18 and I had to rush out to get some new pegs. I got some really funny looks while at the supermarket testing the spring tension of the different types of pegs Clean MT ready to get reconed. 1 x MT18 drop in recone kit - just add glue and solder A quick clean to ensure that there is no crap before using glue.